305 dynoed 388 rwhp / 437 rwtq
11-11-2002, 04:47 PM
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305 dynoed 388 rwhp / 437 rwtq
my 91 Z28 dynoed 388/437 on saturday afternoon.
Mods are as follows,
stock 305 (80,000 miles) , ported plenum, stock runners, stock tb, stock base, 24# svo injectors, -06an lines, edelbrock tes headers, edelbrock cat back, off road pipe, MSD 6btm (set to 1/2 degree), MSD wires, MSD blaster 2, 3.73 gears, ProCharger P600-B 3 core intercooler, billet impeller , 14 psi pulley (2.55 inch), HKS ***** valve,
the original 9 psi pulley only gave me 5-6 psi in the manifold.
with the 14 psi pulley now gives me 10-12 psi in the manifold.
with 5 psi it made 330/373 to the wheels.
any questions let me know.
Also Andris Skulte was there as a witness.
Mods are as follows,
stock 305 (80,000 miles) , ported plenum, stock runners, stock tb, stock base, 24# svo injectors, -06an lines, edelbrock tes headers, edelbrock cat back, off road pipe, MSD 6btm (set to 1/2 degree), MSD wires, MSD blaster 2, 3.73 gears, ProCharger P600-B 3 core intercooler, billet impeller , 14 psi pulley (2.55 inch), HKS ***** valve,
the original 9 psi pulley only gave me 5-6 psi in the manifold.
with the 14 psi pulley now gives me 10-12 psi in the manifold.
with 5 psi it made 330/373 to the wheels.
any questions let me know.
Also Andris Skulte was there as a witness.
11-11-2002, 06:26 PM
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13.20 @ 109
with 5 pounds it went 13.2 @ 109 with bad driving and really bad traction. it had 255/50/16 drag radials that didnt stand a chance.
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11-12-2002, 11:10 AM
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That's pretty sweet.. sounds very similar to my setup. One question.. I'm running 24 lb injectors too, and my engine idles pretty badly... how'd you cure that problem?
jon
jon
11-12-2002, 07:10 PM
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The only time I have an idle problem is when its cold out and the car is running really fat. Kinda like it cause it sounds like a big fat lumpy cam LOL!
it only runs fat when its running of the program in the computer but once it warms up it goes away. I get open and closed loop mixed up so rather than sound like a dum a$$ ill leave it at that.
Basiclly it runs fine off the inputs from the sesors. I do run a low pressure on bottom to help also. (35-38) and the FMU brings it up to 80 +.
Have you ever dynoed your car. if you havent try to and make sure they have a wide band O2 setup to see your mixture.
Mike
it only runs fat when its running of the program in the computer but once it warms up it goes away. I get open and closed loop mixed up so rather than sound like a dum a$$ ill leave it at that.
Basiclly it runs fine off the inputs from the sesors. I do run a low pressure on bottom to help also. (35-38) and the FMU brings it up to 80 +.
Have you ever dynoed your car. if you havent try to and make sure they have a wide band O2 setup to see your mixture.
Mike
11-12-2002, 08:43 PM
#11
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where/how much for the charger?
how long did/cost the install cost?
any problems with the kit??
i almost have the money for one? just dont know if it will blow my engine and/or tranny or rear end!!
i most likely would get the cheapest less powerful one with an intercooler.. because the car is my daily driver...
how long did/cost the install cost?
any problems with the kit??
i almost have the money for one? just dont know if it will blow my engine and/or tranny or rear end!!
i most likely would get the cheapest less powerful one with an intercooler.. because the car is my daily driver...
11-12-2002, 09:57 PM
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MD formula, I asked the same Q's 4 years ago about my stock 305 and its now 18,000 miles later, at 78,000 total miles on the car (engine) I have not had any problems with any drivetrain parts . my T-5 wc is still fine. stock rear with 3.73's.
It cost $3303 4 YEARS AGO. And it was an easy install though it was done over a weekend.
Mike
It cost $3303 4 YEARS AGO. And it was an easy install though it was done over a weekend.
Mike
11-13-2002, 07:16 AM
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Car: 1991 Firebird Formula
Engine: 383 Supercharged and Intercooled
Transmission: 6-Speed
Axle/Gears: Stock 10 bolt 3.42
Re: 13.20 @ 109
Originally posted by ProCharged91Z28
with 5 pounds it went 13.2 @ 109 with bad driving and really bad traction. it had 255/50/16 drag radials that didnt stand a chance.
with 5 pounds it went 13.2 @ 109 with bad driving and really bad traction. it had 255/50/16 drag radials that didnt stand a chance.
It had stock block and heads. The cam and intake used are the same I am using now. (see sig) It all ran great untill I snapped the snout off the crank at idle in my driveway. I had a bad chip and cold start was horrible and the engine would vibrate like crazy. I also noticed I had the accessory belt routed wrong. It was put like the sticker states under the hood, instead of what Vortech reccomended.
Just watch that T-5 with those ET streets. And no power shifting unless you want to shower the track with tranny parts.
11-13-2002, 10:32 PM
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Gofasterbird, I dont have a scanner so if you need some one to vouch for me you can ask Andris Skulte (twin turbo Z28) he was there. I can understand that some people dont believe the numbers but it made 388/437 to the wheel. It was on a brand new Dynojet , well two weeks old.
91 Formula, I never shifted it hard in 3rd gear, and the drag radials hook for nothing on the street, even the et streets didnt hook. I laid a lot of rubber with the et streets for the fun of it. they leave some nice railroad tracks! lol.
Mike
91 Formula, I never shifted it hard in 3rd gear, and the drag radials hook for nothing on the street, even the et streets didnt hook. I laid a lot of rubber with the et streets for the fun of it. they leave some nice railroad tracks! lol.
Mike
11-14-2002, 11:07 AM
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Originally posted by GofasterFirebird
must have been a dynojet?
must have been a dynojet?
11-14-2002, 05:08 PM
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Originally posted by GofasterFirebird
as opposed to a mustang dyno. i am trying to explain the high numbers
as opposed to a mustang dyno. i am trying to explain the high numbers
11-15-2002, 02:21 AM
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I think I have seen the "mustang" dyno. It is the one that looks like it is homemade and uses the "strain gauge" method with a torque bar. This torque bar method is the "infamous" method in which has gotten the car magazines in hot water a few years ago to "bump up" #'s The dynojet and also another company called superflow build inertial dynos in which the drum is of a given weight and based on weight vs. speed = power mathematical formula of "uncheatable" given formula. The closest thing to a cheat on a dyno jet is looking at corrected vs. un-corrected. I like using the automatically "corrected" figures because they will be comparable when you dyno in the winter and then change something and dyno in the summer. The stuff that goes in differential oil for limited slip rearends is called "friction modifier". I call my dyno the "FICTION modifier" because after your car doesnt make the power you said it would you have to make up all new lies about your car.
11-15-2002, 03:34 AM
#26
Dynojets are the setups with the big rollers. The way they measure HP is by measuring how fast the heavy rollers could be accelerated.
Mustang dynos look like a little box that you bolt to the hub of your axle with the back of the car jacked up. It has some sort of brake assembly inside that puts a load on the axle. In theory it should give you a more accurate reading on what power the drivetrain is capable of putting to the axle at any point, but I've got to think that if you don't have a posi or if the posi is worn it's worthless (I believe that they only hook up one side, I've never seen one in person).
Mustang dynos look like a little box that you bolt to the hub of your axle with the back of the car jacked up. It has some sort of brake assembly inside that puts a load on the axle. In theory it should give you a more accurate reading on what power the drivetrain is capable of putting to the axle at any point, but I've got to think that if you don't have a posi or if the posi is worn it's worthless (I believe that they only hook up one side, I've never seen one in person).
11-15-2002, 03:38 AM
#27
BTW, most people see slightly higher #'s on the dynojet setup (which has been around longer and is more common, so it's pretty much the standard), but since they use a different method of measuring the torque produced they aren't directly comprable (you can't say that the mustang will alwayse show 95% of the dynojet).
11-15-2002, 07:11 PM
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Ive dynoed my car 3 different times on 3 different dynos all dynojet s all were very well maintained or recently installed. and all the times ive gone ive had buddies go with their LS1 cars and we all know just about every LS1 car in the world puts down about 330/340 to the wheel. so judging by the other cars id say they are all close.
11-16-2002, 03:24 AM
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Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA
Dynojets are the setups with the big rollers. The way they measure HP is by measuring how fast the heavy rollers could be accelerated.
Mustang dynos look like a little box that you bolt to the hub of your axle with the back of the car jacked up. It has some sort of brake assembly inside that puts a load on the axle. In theory it should give you a more accurate reading on what power the drivetrain is capable of putting to the axle at any point, but I've got to think that if you don't have a posi or if the posi is worn it's worthless (I believe that they only hook up one side, I've never seen one in person).
Dynojets are the setups with the big rollers. The way they measure HP is by measuring how fast the heavy rollers could be accelerated.
Mustang dynos look like a little box that you bolt to the hub of your axle with the back of the car jacked up. It has some sort of brake assembly inside that puts a load on the axle. In theory it should give you a more accurate reading on what power the drivetrain is capable of putting to the axle at any point, but I've got to think that if you don't have a posi or if the posi is worn it's worthless (I believe that they only hook up one side, I've never seen one in person).
I've only ever seen one Mustang Dyno and it was a roller type like the dynojet.
11-16-2002, 04:08 PM
#30
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eh
weeble. Just pointing out my stock 305 with a B&M 144 blower put down about 250 HP, 7 PSI of boost. only other mod was exhaust... i noted the blower would carry it well over the 4500 RPM redline limit that is imposed fromt he factory, but since I was afraid of valve float I never put it far above 5K.
12-05-2002, 09:51 AM
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I was going to get the same procharger kit to put on my 305. I have dont almost everything to the engine accept the cam because it came with an L98 cam...did you have to get new injectors or did you keep the stock ones? And what about the stock chip...did you keep that or get a custom one burned?
12-05-2002, 12:57 PM
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It has the stock eprom still I am going to get one burned next season. It will make a big differance with a good program in the ecm. it runs like crap when its cold out until it warms up cause it has 24# svo injectors and the stock program. ( it runs really fat)
Mike
Mike
12-06-2002, 05:31 AM
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Re: eh
Originally posted by Kingtal0n
weeble. Just pointing out my stock 305 with a B&M 144 blower put down about 250 HP, 7 PSI of boost. only other mod was exhaust... i noted the blower would carry it well over the 4500 RPM redline limit that is imposed fromt he factory, but since I was afraid of valve float I never put it far above 5K.
weeble. Just pointing out my stock 305 with a B&M 144 blower put down about 250 HP, 7 PSI of boost. only other mod was exhaust... i noted the blower would carry it well over the 4500 RPM redline limit that is imposed fromt he factory, but since I was afraid of valve float I never put it far above 5K.
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