I have pulled the mill out of my 89 vette and sent the block to the machine shop for the initial rough bore and to stud the bottom end. I have decided to Stroke it to a 383 and run 10-12 psi of boost. My plans include the following:

Eagle 4340 1 pc crank 3.75 stroke 435337505700
6" Eagle H beam rods CRS6008B3D
JE Extreme duty dish pistons 170817 9.2-1 w/58cc
JE Rings
Speedpro 3/4 main bearings
GM hot cam kit w/ 1.6 roller rockers
L98 Aluminum heads with new valves and bowl work
Timming chain ?

I will use the tpi set up in the begining then I am going for the LT1 intake converssion.


Please give me your thoughts about the setup. Is any body running something similar?

Is any body else running the hot cam? How do you like it?

Any good souces for crank, pistons, rods and GM hot cam kit would be appreciated.


Thanks in advance.

ED89

 

Why the hot cam? Price? If you are going this far, get a custom blower grind. All of the rotating assemblies are around $1500-1700.

 

The hot cam seemed like a good place to start. It does not have too much valve overlap for a blower application. It seems to be comparable to the TPIS ZZ-9 cam. I have spoken to a few people and it comes recommended, as a good combo w/ boost, so when I saw the Hot Cam kit and it's specs I thought it might not be a bad Idea since it is a matched set. No need to reinvent the wheel.

ZZ-9 specs

Intake Exhaust Advertised duration 282 287
Duration at .050 212 226
Gross lift .483 .520
Lobe separation 112


Hot Cam specs

duration at lash point in degrees (intake/exhaust) is 279/287; duration at .050" (intake/exhaust) is 218/228; maximum lift with 1.6 rocker ratio (intake/exhaust) is 525/525. Valve lash is zero/zero and lobe centerline is 112 degrees.

ED89

 

The hot cam is a terrific cam but I must advise against it when used with serious power adders. The hot cam is the result of a great base of work in generating cylinder pressure, in short it works too good for a blown or juiced application. sure, cylinder pressure means power but what if it generates violent cylinder pressures? Then no "loc-wire" or stainless steel "o-ring" can hold it in. read this thread https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=83372

 

Thanks for the post. Looks like I am going with a custom ground cam.


ED89

 

I want to do somewhat the same thing with the ZZ-X cam and vortec heads. Would that be a good combo?

 

I have been looking around for a good cam. From what I understand the zz-9 cam is good for a supercharged setup per ASSC Racing here in IL and I Just left the Caroll Superchager web site and they use it in the 383 L98 Combo and generate 550 hp 6250 rpm 500 ft torque 5250 rpm. However in doing more research I think I will go with a custom grind. I can get a custom cam for the same if not less money and generate excellent performance tunned to my application. From what I understand the cam will look similar to the ZZ-9.

ED89

 

The ZZ9 cam is not a bad one for a blown 383, a custom may be a tad better if spec'd out correctly.

I think you should concentrate more on the heads, for the simple reason that if they restrict flow, they will sap power no matter how much boost you run. The flow specs on stock L98 Vette heads are around 200cfm, maybe 220cfm with some bowl work. That equates to a max of 450hp on the motor, not bad, but not great either-a street 383 can push 500hp with the right parts (at 6000rpm). So you may be selling yourself short with those heads. Fully ported L98 Vette heads flow about 250cfm at 180cc, which will support about 515hp max. If you were to throw a ZZ9 cam and a set of ported L98s on a 383, it should make about 450hp and idle good.

Then you throw 10psi into it and gain another 60% more power, up to 725hp or so, not too shabby.

I Would Suggest:
Convert block to 4 bolt splayed (and stud it)
Engine oil cooler and large capacity oil pan (7 or more qts)
Buy a good crank, rods, & piston set-$2,500 or so (strength)

 

Here is some data from a 383 from Dyno 2k-

383 CI
9:1
S Trim Vortech
1000 CFM TB
Dart 200 CC Iron Heads 2.02/1.60
ZZ9 Cam

HP 580@6500
TQ 554@4500


Dart 200 CC Iron Heads 2.02/1.60
GM Hot cam

HP 584@6500
TQ 559@4500

 

Sorry it took me so long to return your posts. I have been traveling on business for the last week in Houston, Tx and New Orleans. I am just getting in today.

Regarding getting a new set of heads:

I agree, I have been looking for a new set of heads. Since I ran the numbers, the L98 heads will cost me about $650 to be reworked with new valves, springs and bowl work. I have been contemplating going with the GM Fast Burn Heads and possibly converting an LT4 manifold for the job or just getting the TPI Vortec Base Plate. As for the block it will stay a two bolt and it will be studded. The oil pan and cooler are already in the works.

Thanks Paul



bbuntingbbunting

Thanks for the numbers.

 

ED89- I would really encourage you to investigate a pair of Dart Iron Eagle heads fully assembled. They will flow much better than a stock cylinder head out of the box. They are also available for about $889 from Summit.

 

No problems with my cam. Check sig

 

I have a question for you guys running blowers. Now this post is not a flame so please dont take it that way. I was running a 383cid , 10.6comp, afr 190cc heads, super ram, comp cam 224-230dur@50 and 535int 545exh with 1.6's hooker long tubes and flowmaster 3in cat back with custom y-pipe. The numbers you guys are posting just make me curious. I mean as far as torque, hp, and et's. This set up with a full spohn susp and 3.70 gears netted me some great numbers all N/A then with Juice it was nuts.

My first pull was with a bad tune the wide band showed 10.9

338 rwhp @5200
487 rw ftlbs @3100

all n/a figuires and car went 12.20 with that tune.

With a 150nx wet shot

491 rwhp @5500
786 rw ftlbs @3150

no juice times.

Now when I had a better tune:

358rwhp @5350
516 rw ftlbs @2950

Now either I had a hell of a combination or the et's and dyno numbers that you guys are showing are kinda low for the mods. Now this is not a flame or anyhing I am jsut curious as to why figuires are so different..

Drew

 

You can't possibly be refering to me.

What's your ET, MPH juiced?
What is you MPH with your n/a 12.20 run? My guess is 110. What is your 60ft on that run?
ET doesn't tell all. Trap speed and 60' tell alot also.
You probobly have an auto too. You have alot better 60' than me.

If I had ET streets on and launched at 5000, I would have gone 11.80, if my drivetrain would hold together.