fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I should have a Race Kit coming (few weeks). I've opted for the ceramic coating on the housings and headers also. I did not buy the inlet piping as I'm leaning towards going intercooled. Sad to see they discontinued them from the store now. Good thing I got mine when I did.

I can't decide if I still want it or not though. I don't have a lot of money for this budget (I'm flat broke and this went on the CC) as I'm just finishing up my $8000 motor build. I might just list it on the board and wait awhile and go with a F-1 Procharger Kit with twin ICs.

By quick guessimate figures I get around $3000 extra or so just for the intake side not counting tons of labor hours I would have to spend cutting piping. I've been without the car for 4 years+ now, so I'm itching to finally get it back on the road.

Current in-the-build NA Motor Specs:

GM Seasoned 4 bolt main block with ARP studs everywhere possible ARP bolts everywhere else
4340 Forged Eagle 400 Crank internally balanced & reground to 350 mains
4340 Ultra LW Race I beams (Speedomotive type)
TRW forged floater flat top pistons
210CC Race Ready AFR heads (76cc) (Using 0.015 Metal Shimmed Gaskets for 10.1:1 currently)
1.6 pro mag rockers with stud girdles
Solid roller cam (XE280R)
Comp Cams Solid Roller lifters with rev kit
TRW (Speed-Pro) ring gapped at .022/.024
Victor JR hand ported intake with 2" 4 hole spacer
750 DP Speed Demon Carb
Complete MSD System
Hooker long tube ceramic headers with 3" cutout

Obviously I know I would have to change out head gaskets, carb, camshaft, possibly rings (currently gapped for nitrous), exhaust, etc, etc. I would probably be looking into cometic as they will make custom 0.120 thickness spacer type head gaskets. That would put me around 8.2:1 CR.

I'll be graduating in a few months, so all my student loans and credit card debt is going to be catching up with me. So I'm trying to debate keep the kit or go nice 100 to 150 shot. If I went nitrous way I would be looking into a nice Plate style system, heaters, WOT switch, arming switch toggle, RPM Window, FP safety switch, timing computer so I could pull out timing from the cabin, and maybe a mastermind setup that I could control activation flow.

Those of you that bought the TT street/strip, race kits, or built your own TT kits: How much did you spend on the intact tract side (BOV(s), IC(s), Piping, Clamps, etc)?

I wouldn't want to really tear this motor back apart for rings changes and I'm still using the factory block so I imagine 600rwhp or so would be about the limits.


So let's hear the opinions?

Steven89Iroc

Spend a few bucks making SS piping from the turbos to a merge to a carb hat, then make a water/alky injection kit. That'll be as good as an intercooler, but should be cheaper and easier if you go the DIY route.

I forget how much I've spent on piping so far for the FMIC setup, but I bought all aluminum pipes and good clamps with decent couplings, so it was more expensive than it had to be, as stainless steel is cheaper.

If you are still in the process of building the motor, don't build it for N/A if you'll be boosting it decently, that would be a big waste of time and money.

All that aside, figure your finances and if spending all this on a car looks to be a bad idea for right now, it probably is. You'd be better off getting your stuff paid off and then putting money onto the car when you have less debt. If nothing else, you could set the TT kit aside and get it all ready once you're free and clear. Judging by the mistakes I've seen others make, I think you probably don't want to get into all that financial trouble if you can avoid it. Just giving friendly advice.

If you can afford it without too much problem though, I'm turbo biased so I'd say go with those and use water injection if the IC setup is too much to swallow.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

The motor is done, been test fired once already. I'm still just getting the car ready for it (painted last week, mounts went in last friday). I was looking for 500+ hp on NA. I was wanting around 400 to 450 rwhp out of it. Around here anything in the 13s is considered quick and 12s is fast. We do have a few cars running in the 10s-11s but not many. Goal was to hit 11s or around there. Mostly just building for a project/weekend cruise night car. Something I drive around and not get made fun of for having an 8 point roll bar in it. I do not have a track very close locally, so I would probably only make it to one once or twice a year.

I'll probably see if I can just resell it. If I can't that would be a good excuse to tell the GF for keeping it. She's still telling me after this NA motor I'm done, no more.

If I keep it I'll more than likely I'll just wait till I have enough money to convert the current setup over to turbo friendly.

Steven89Iroc

Yeah, I wasn't even thinking about how much power you'll already be making, heh. Drive the car when it's all dialed in, you may just decide you don't need more power anyway.

As much as I hate seeing a good turbo kit get sold, it sounds like that's your best option for now. OTOH I'm sure someone would put it to good use.

Good luck.

metalhead212121

While on the topic of the BBS turbo system.. I was looking at their prices for Ceramic Coating.. is that the going rate? ($150 for a set of exhaust manifolds/headers... $100 for 1 turbo) Im not saying its a rip off.. just wondering if thats the going rate or not..

Dan

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Well I looked at Chris's prices over at CEcoatings. By the time I figured up what it would be to ship the headers to him I decided just to get it from BBS.

Over at CE it's around $45 and up from turbo housings and $200 to $225 or so for headers. Like I said it's a tad cheaper over there, but once you figure up 2-way shipping on the items it shouldn't be any cheaper.

nightrida

with the flat top pistons and 76cc heads i would do the nitrous and do a 2 stage kit.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

i like the big nitrous shot idea... less work involved since the motor is setup right for it

twin turbo is cool and all, but the motor is setup for nitrous so go nitrous.. and plus its cheaper that way. so you can get your finances straight.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I think I've decided just to get the Hitman Plus Kit once I get the motor running properly. That way I can get the regular 50 to 200 HP adjustability. I imagine I'll stick with a 50 or 100 shot though. If I ever decide to redo the combination later I can upgrade to a Stage 6 with that kit which lets up to 300 shot.

I still got quiet a bit more stuff to do before I can start to think about that though.



I'd also like to mention I did gap the rings for nitrous (street setup) not forced induction, so a lot less hassle than pulling it back apart to widen gaps.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (2)

can always go direct port, im sure witht he money you'll get from the TT kit, you can afford it, i had the NOS brand sportsman fogger on mine, its the same set up as the race fogger accept it only goes to 250 hp, but for a 400 buck difference, it made more sense

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I'd actually just prefer a hitman plus kit. I highly doubt I will ever use a 150 or 200 hp shot.