T-5 won't let go of my flywheel
#1
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Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305 to 350 to 383 to BOOM!!!
Transmission: 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10-bolt
T-5 won't let go of my flywheel
Please don't tell me to do a search b/c I have and ever since this website has switched hands....it is almost impossible for me to find anything, and its much easier to post something, than to search
Anyways.... I pulled out my engine the other day and along with it came the trans...a T-5. I but the engine and trans back in with a clutch that was in with it... (the cluch only has 300 miles on it)I put everything back together and when I push the clutch in, its a little soft at 1st, but if i keep pumping it, it will get harder. But when I start it (trans in gear, and the clutch down), the car jumps foward. When I was done ripping my hair out, I tried it again, the clutch was soft AGAIN and the clutch was still grabbing. So really I guess I got two problems So i'm thinking it could be...
1. A leak in the line (but there is no fluid dripping from anywhere)
2. A bad slave
3. Maybe the fork is not in right?
4. Some problem that I could not for see
I really don't know. Problem is that I got solid motor mounts and the trans will not come out unless you take the motor out with it. So I really don't want to pull the trans again, if I don't have to....
Just wonder if anyone else had this problem and could give me a hand
Thanks in advance
Anyways.... I pulled out my engine the other day and along with it came the trans...a T-5. I but the engine and trans back in with a clutch that was in with it... (the cluch only has 300 miles on it)I put everything back together and when I push the clutch in, its a little soft at 1st, but if i keep pumping it, it will get harder. But when I start it (trans in gear, and the clutch down), the car jumps foward. When I was done ripping my hair out, I tried it again, the clutch was soft AGAIN and the clutch was still grabbing. So really I guess I got two problems So i'm thinking it could be...
1. A leak in the line (but there is no fluid dripping from anywhere)
2. A bad slave
3. Maybe the fork is not in right?
4. Some problem that I could not for see
I really don't know. Problem is that I got solid motor mounts and the trans will not come out unless you take the motor out with it. So I really don't want to pull the trans again, if I don't have to....
Just wonder if anyone else had this problem and could give me a hand
Thanks in advance
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Commong screwup is on installation of the throwout bearing...
Not sure on your master/slave setup but i would bleed it if possible....
Not sure on your master/slave setup but i would bleed it if possible....
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Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305 to 350 to 383 to BOOM!!!
Transmission: 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10-bolt
what did i screw up and is there a way of fixing that without taking the trans off?
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Vortec Headed 383 9.6:1
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt Posi 3.73
You need to check travel of the hyrdraulics. If that looks good, I'd say backwards throwout bearing probably.
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Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305 to 350 to 383 to BOOM!!!
Transmission: 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10-bolt
With the picture below...the side that face you is the side that goes towards the pressure plate...correct? also should the throwout bearing make rest agaist the pressure plate. With the pedel out, the bearing does not touch the pressure plate there is like a 1/4inch gap
Last edited by myfast3rdgen; 08-12-2006 at 12:10 PM.
#7
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
More likely, you have the throwout installed on the fork incorrectly; or the fork is not on its ball stud like it's supposed to be.
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#8
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Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305 to 350 to 383 to BOOM!!!
Transmission: 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10-bolt
holy **** that made it really easy I think I got it in wrong then....thats a great picutre i'll go pull the trans right now thanks
#9
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Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305 to 350 to 383 to BOOM!!!
Transmission: 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10-bolt
ok so i just pulled off the trans and yes it was in incorrectly....however the trans still will not disengauge???? what wrong now
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Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305 to 350 to 383 to BOOM!!!
Transmission: 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10-bolt
from the mount of the slave cyl to the fork it starts off at 2" when it is pushed it goes to 2.5" so it moves half an inch
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Car: 91 RS Texas B4C
Engine: 305 TPI (M.I.A.)
Transmission: T5 (M.I.A.)
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Check to see that the large hollow-hex plug that positions/retains the pivot is fully tightened.
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Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: broken 385sbc
Transmission: G-Force rebuilt T-5
Axle/Gears: Currie 9" Ford 4.30:1
i dont know if the stock bellhousings have adjusters on them but if it does, tighten it.. thats how i solved my problem.. but i have a lakewood bellhousing..
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Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305 to 350 to 383 to BOOM!!!
Transmission: 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10-bolt
yea I remember it having a way to adjust it...i didn't mess it up but i'll try it in the morning
Is half an inch enought travel to disengage the clutch???
thanks again for the tips, i'm almost 100% sure that if it wasn't for people like you on this website that my car would be at the botton of the closest lake
Is half an inch enought travel to disengage the clutch???
thanks again for the tips, i'm almost 100% sure that if it wasn't for people like you on this website that my car would be at the botton of the closest lake
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
½" is just about right. "spec" I believe is .600".
How hard was it to get the trans into the pilot? Did it just slip in by hand; or did you use the bolts to "draw" the trans up to the BH the last little bit of its way?
How hard was it to get the trans into the pilot? Did it just slip in by hand; or did you use the bolts to "draw" the trans up to the BH the last little bit of its way?
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Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305 to 350 to 383 to BOOM!!!
Transmission: 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10-bolt
that was a pain the --- it had a hard time putting the trans in to the pliot bearing...but even when the pliot bearing was brand new I had a hard time bolting the two up so I never thought anything of it...should I replace the pliot bearing???
#20
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
If the tip of the trans fitts too tight in the pilot, like if the pilot is damaged, it makes the whole system act EXACTLY like the clutch doesn't disengage; that is, the crank is still partly coupled to the transmission because of the pilot's friction.
The trans should just slide into the pilot, by hand, no effort whatsoever. If it doesn't, like if the pilot got a burr or something from the trans not being lined up right one time and caught the edge, then it will make it act like that. That's why a clutch alignment tool is important, and why you should NEVER EVER use the bolts to "draw" the trans to the BH (well, one of the reasons anyway); but you should ALWAYS be able to slide the trans fully up against the BH by hand. That way you know for sure that everything fits and is free to operate like it's supposed to.
Yes you might want to replace it, or at least look at it, and if it's the brass kind, maybe you can repair it with a knife or a grinding point or something.
The trans should just slide into the pilot, by hand, no effort whatsoever. If it doesn't, like if the pilot got a burr or something from the trans not being lined up right one time and caught the edge, then it will make it act like that. That's why a clutch alignment tool is important, and why you should NEVER EVER use the bolts to "draw" the trans to the BH (well, one of the reasons anyway); but you should ALWAYS be able to slide the trans fully up against the BH by hand. That way you know for sure that everything fits and is free to operate like it's supposed to.
Yes you might want to replace it, or at least look at it, and if it's the brass kind, maybe you can repair it with a knife or a grinding point or something.
#21
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Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305 to 350 to 383 to BOOM!!!
Transmission: 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10-bolt
So yea....
I replaced everything just short of a new trans
New Pliot Bearing
New Clutch
New Clutch Fork
New Throwout bearing (installed to the pictures that where posted)
Yes I did use a clutch alinement tool
And Yes the trans slide right up to the BH...it took some pushing but I got there alright
OUT PUT SHAFT STILL MOVES?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!!??!?!?!?!!?!?!?!?!?!?!
Keep in mind that everything worked great untill I pulled the engine.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
Or how about
1986 Trans Am for Sale
350 Carb with a 650 demon carb
3.73 gear and a 5 speed tranny
BO
PLEASE HELP ME!!!!
I replaced everything just short of a new trans
New Pliot Bearing
New Clutch
New Clutch Fork
New Throwout bearing (installed to the pictures that where posted)
Yes I did use a clutch alinement tool
And Yes the trans slide right up to the BH...it took some pushing but I got there alright
OUT PUT SHAFT STILL MOVES?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!!??!?!?!?!!?!?!?!?!?!?!
Keep in mind that everything worked great untill I pulled the engine.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
Or how about
1986 Trans Am for Sale
350 Carb with a 650 demon carb
3.73 gear and a 5 speed tranny
BO
PLEASE HELP ME!!!!
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Sounds to me like it went together right, and the slave has enough travel; so it ought to be working now.
Put the drive shaft in, and see if the rear brakes will hold the wheels still.
If they will, then after it's been driven for a few hundred yards with a few starts from a dead stop, it'll most likely smooth itself out. The clutch disc has all manner of irregularities on its surface that will wear off, the pilot will wear to the clutch gear a little bit, etc.
Put the drive shaft in, and see if the rear brakes will hold the wheels still.
If they will, then after it's been driven for a few hundred yards with a few starts from a dead stop, it'll most likely smooth itself out. The clutch disc has all manner of irregularities on its surface that will wear off, the pilot will wear to the clutch gear a little bit, etc.
#23
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
What pressure plate are you using?
Did you check for damage to the 'forks' on the pressure plate?
I have seen them get bent all to **** for people ramming the input shaft into them or incorrect installation of throwout bearings...
Did you check for damage to the 'forks' on the pressure plate?
I have seen them get bent all to **** for people ramming the input shaft into them or incorrect installation of throwout bearings...
#24
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Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305 to 350 to 383 to BOOM!!!
Transmission: 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10-bolt
Well if I put the brakes on the car starts to die. I took out the trans again and the forks a.k.a fingers? are all in good condition on the pressure plate. The Ploit bearing looks good. same with the fork and throwout bearing.
However when I put the trans back in, it was a little hard for it to slide into place. I had to use a little more wiggleing than before, and a little more force to push it in. But I pushed it up to the bell housing.
Would there be ANYTHING wrong with the trans that would cause this problem?
Thanks again for all the help...
P.S. the car is still for sale...lol
However when I put the trans back in, it was a little hard for it to slide into place. I had to use a little more wiggleing than before, and a little more force to push it in. But I pushed it up to the bell housing.
Would there be ANYTHING wrong with the trans that would cause this problem?
Thanks again for all the help...
P.S. the car is still for sale...lol
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Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305 to 350 to 383 to BOOM!!!
Transmission: 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10-bolt
right I got some good news...it now works
HOWEVER
I still is not letting go all the way, But it is enought that I can start it up without the car jumping foward
(I'm just going to go over everthing again and see if anything else is wrong)
Thanks again for all the help
HOWEVER
I still is not letting go all the way, But it is enought that I can start it up without the car jumping foward
(I'm just going to go over everthing again and see if anything else is wrong)
Thanks again for all the help
#26
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Pro 5.0 shifted T56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 posi
bleed your hydraulics. i went through the same agony for days trying to figure it out. turns out i just had air in the line
#27
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Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: broken 385sbc
Transmission: G-Force rebuilt T-5
Axle/Gears: Currie 9" Ford 4.30:1
i just started to have problems like yours after races last month.. my adjustment was almost completely out and i was still having difficulty shifting under load.. i bled the slave cylinder and all is well.. you should be able to bleed it similar to how you would for brakes.. its a two man job no matter what..
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