Acouple month I was reading a thread about some guys moveing the batteries to the rear of there cars. I am now planning on doing the same and would like to know what the requirements the tracks want to see. As i recall the battery needed to be enclosed and some type of disconect on the exterior. I haven't got the search thing figured out on this site os I thought I'd ask.
Thanks in advanve

 

if the battery is in an area without a firewall(read as: not in a trunk) it has to be in an approved box with an external vent. this means if you put it in the hatch well(centered in the rear of the car si the best place for it) you will need a box. if you put it in the spare tire well you will only need a hold down since there is a "firewall" between teh drivers compartment and the box. any battery that has been moved from it's stock location also requires an approved, external safety disconnect switch outside the car.
summit has a relocation kit with a box for under $50 (i think it is that cheap) and the safety switch is liek $12.
hope this helps
l

later
tim

 

Complete rules are in the NHRA/IRHA rulebooks.

Any battery not in the stock location must have a master cutoff switch. The safety switch must be at the rear. It must not be made of plastic or keyed. Off must be clearly marked. If installed as a push/pull, push is the off position. The switch must be wired into the positive cable and must shut off the car and all electrical components when shut off.

The easiest way to mount the battery (in a street car) is in an approved SFI (Moroso, Taylor etc) box. Marine type battery boxes are not approved. The box must be sealed and vented to the outside of the car. In a race car you can build a rear fire wall like I did. Pics on my web page.

All batteries must be isolated from the drivers compartment. Even sealed batteries like Optima's must be in a sealed box.

Of course all these rules are only if you plan on taking the car to the dragstrip and try to pass a tech inspection. For street use you can mount it however you want.

 

I am also doing this and i have a few questions, its been years sence I have been to a strip and there wasn't but a minamal inspection then. Can I fabricate my own vented and sealed box, also can the kill switch actuator on the exterior be removeable ? Thanks

 

Thanks for the info, I was looking at a gel pack Battery that might fit in the storage compartment. Its H7.5" X L7" X D3" do you think this might work if I can find a battery box that will also fit ???

 

I was thinking about moving the battery as well and I read about the rules and regualtions and I was worried about an external cut off switch. For me my car is gonna be a street car so Im wondering if having a way for someone to cut the power to my battery that powers up my alarm is a good thing since I park on the street?? I think for me Im just gonna go with a light weight battery when I can spare the $ for something like that and have the piece of mind knowing my car is protected from theft or damage(I know car alarms leave alot to be desired, if they want it they can get it, but why help them??)

 

I must of had a brain fart, the reason for me moving my battery is to acomidate a dual cold air intake I am fabricating. With the size of that battery I will be able to build an air box that incorporates the battery and air filter and pulls air out of the fender well. Then I can start working on the air induction running up the fender well.
I hope the gel cell battery they have for $150 will last, the sales guy said it has no warranty because it is for race cars ?