I wondering what everyones opinion is on doing a burnout when racing on radials. I've heard some people say that radials should be heated because they get sticky like slicks. And other people say that melting radials makes them slippery.
thanks,
Chris

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1990 Formula WS6 - 305 - T5
14.3 @ 96.5 mph
MSD 6AL
Strut tower brace
Subframe connectors
MAC headers
Underpulleys

 

MT drag radials and Nitto's need to be heated up since they have the oils in the rubber to make them sticky but street radials don't. Just a quick dry hop to clean them off.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block (times are for the current engine)

Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586

Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

If your talking about regular street radials I would say no to heating them up.
I find it wise to dry them by spinning. I steer away from the wet box the best I can and when I straighten out I just spin them to be sure they are dry.
Also keep them full, do not let the air out. The patch on a radial is the best when it is full. Lowering the psi makes the middle of the wheel cave in.

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1988 Camaro Sport Coupe: Orignally: 305 TBI 700r4
Now: 1974 350CI, 2bolt,.030 over, Badger Flat Head Pistons w/ valve relief, Melling high performance street cam, GM Cast Vortec Heads, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake, Edelbrock 600cfm w/ electric choke, GM HEI w/ vacuum advance, Weiand Low Profile Air Cleaner, Mallory 5 port Fuel Pressure Regulator, Mr. Gasket Throttle Cable Bracket, Corvette Shift Servo, 16" IROC Wheels, Every thing else is STOCK
Soon: 3.73 or 3.42, Gears, Hoosier Q/T

 

all that regular radial sshould need is to be flipped over once really quick. it will scrape off anything that they have picked up as you drive around the pits.

later
tim

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91 Camaro RS-LO3,Auto
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BINGO




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j.wolfe
_ ____ _
91 GTA L98 MSD K&N 194,000
Best time: 14.389@95.49 (VMP) Done with 193,000 miles and no engine work what so ever.
"...Deception..." Brandon Sloan * ...wounds heal and chics dig scars...

 

My 60' times decrease with about 5 seconds of burnout. I have street radials and when I don't do a long burnout, my 60's suffer.

 

Best way to find out is to try it yourself. It seems to help with some brands of tires and hurt with others. With the pep boys futuras that I run it does seem to help a little.

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1989 Mustang LX 5.0 Coupe
13.34@106.7 - needs more gear and converter

1992 Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible
14.23 @ 95.something - it's been a while since I've ran this one

Moderator Stangtec.com, SN95.com
Amelia and Nic's Twin Terrors

 

I find that doing a 1-2.5 sec burnout (if u call that a burnout) helps my car on the streets and at the track. With my bald original goodyear tires that came on the car the only way I could ever get them to stick is with a burnout. But I got new goodyear GS-C now and I can launch even harder then before, with a short burnout of course.

But like Nic said you should try it your self and see if it helps, thats the best thing to do.

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89 T-Top GTA 350 5-speed (soon to be 6-speed)
(Jet hot coated)1 3/4 SLP headers,flowmaster force 2,no cat's,SLP cold air,MSD 6al,march pulleys,ported plenum,air foil,B&M ripper shifter,180 stat,alston SFC,spohn LCA relocation brackets,ES LCA and Panhard bushings,free mods.

0-60 5.2s
Track Time
60' 2.049
E.T. 14.14@96.7MPH (2270 FT)
13.76@99.4MPH corrected

 

what about using a traction compound on street tires?would it help?would it ruin the tires?

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89 FORMULA 350,WS6 SUSPENSION,HOTCHKIS STB,KONI REDS,WONDERBAR,SLP REAR CONTROL ARMS/PANHARD,POLY BUSHINGS,FRESH 355 MOTOR,TCI 12" STREETFIGHTER,TRANSGO SHIFT KIT,3.70 GEARS,FLOWMASTER EXHAUAST,SLP 1 3/4 HEADERS,NO CATS,58 MM BBK,MINIRAM INTAKE,COLD AIR,ALL FREE MODS

 

with radials drive around the water box and clean them off with a SMALL burnout...do not burn out in the water box...the water gets trapped in the grooves and will hurt your time

with drag radials, drive around the water box and dont back into it.....do a burnout to get them sticky enough for you

with drag slicks drive around the water box then back into it and do a burnout

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1998 Cobra convertible
1 of 267 made in
white/tan leather/tan top
#388 of 3480
mods: tan bumper inserts, pirelli P7000's on all corners

my other car:
1991 Camaro RS
teal/grey 5.0 LO3
mods: 14x3 OE w/ K&N, custom exhaust w/ no muffler and resonated tip

 

It's always going to be something to experiment with yourself.
On my 85 i tried everything frm a quick dryhop to ridiculous smoke shows for burnouts, and i definitely found i needed at least a few seconds of burnout to hook up correctly.
Also, in the same car, i tried tire pressure from above street pressure to below, and found that 26psi would give me the best numbers.
(and yes, i even tried different burnout styles w/ different tire pressures)

Oh sure, the peanut gallery will have you believeing in the theory of no burnouts and full tires. And it makes damn good theory. In practice i've found theory didn't hold much water.

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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The TPI & Carb Boards
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
305 TPI A4 2.73 - 14.8 @ 93.1
Stock except ported plenum and dual cats
-=ICON Motorsports=-

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