Organized Drag Racing and Autocross Drag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.

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Old 06-19-2001 | 10:59 PM
  #1  
unknown_host's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,245
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
New to drag racing

I am new to drag racing, and assuming i cut a good light, what do you think my camaro will run with 2.77's and with 3.43's as gear ratios (i plan on swapping after the engine) the engine will be as follows:
Rebuilt 350 with 330+hp
Vortec heads
Mild Cam
Long tube headers
No emmissions
10:1 compression
Holley 600 and wieand stealth intake
true dual exhaust with 2 40series flowmasters
and on street tires with a built th350. thanks, sorry i am sure you guys get a lot of these.

[This message has been edited by unknown_host (edited June 19, 2001).]
Old 06-19-2001 | 11:25 PM
  #2  
AlkyIROC's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,171
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Your reaction time will have nothing to do with your ET. The timer doesn't start until you break the starting beam. When the green light comes on, you can sit there all day and the timer won't start.

The only way to know how fast your car will be is to go out and race it. Without knowing the true rear wheel HP (dyno) and the car weight, it's only a grasping guess what it will actually run. No two cars are the same. They all react differently.

------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 497.9
Best 60 foot: 1.546

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
Old 06-20-2001 | 08:07 PM
  #3  
Basett_Racing's Avatar
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 326
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From: Valley, AL
Stephen is 100% correct. If you are not bracket racing, don't primarily concentrate on R/T right now. Instead, pay more attention to what RPM you leave the line at, and what RPM you shift at. Go out on the street(in a safe place away from traffic, of course) and go up through the gears a few times and see what RPM feels the fastest. Use this as your baseline shiftpoint at the track. Then experiment with higher and lower shiftpoints to find what is truly faster. Sometimes turning the crap out an engine feels and sounds good, but is actually slower on the clock. Do your self a favor and try to get a Summit log book or make you one, and log your shiftpoints, what RPM you left at and what tire air pressure, ignition timing changes, if any, and etc. Log every run and BE CONSISTENT as you can. This way you can look back and have answers to questions you may have forgotten. And lastly, HAVE FUN!! If the car doesn't run what you expect, this gives you inspiration to make it run better.

Other than these things, air up your front tires to about 50# of pressure, maybe take the spare tire and jack out, and if at all possible, try to get hold of some soft compound tires, slicks, DOT slicks, Drag Radials, whatever!! Street tires hook up worse at the strip than they do on street, so if you spinning on the road, you are going to be on ice skates at the track!!!

------------------
82 Z28 383, Ported 215cc Dart Iron Eagle Heads 72 cc Comb. Chambers, Comp custom grind Hyd roller cam, Speed Pro .250" domes, Wheeler Motorsports 4340 I beam rods, Eagle 5140 steel crank, Weiand Team G intake, Holley 830 DP, hedman headers
Trans: Turbo 350 w/ 4000 stall -- Rearend 7.5 w/ Richmond 4.10's, Auburn Minispool
Best ET:11.63 @ 113.25, w/ a 7.39 1/8 @ 93.04, and a 1.626 60'


89 RS, L03 305, Hypertech Chip,cat delete, Dynomax exhaust,K&N open element Filter,160 stat, MSD coil --Trans:700R4 Corvette Servo -- Rearend: 7.5 GM 3.42 w/ posi-lock
New Best ET: 14.91 @92.9
Bassett Racing

[This message has been edited by Basett_Racing (edited June 20, 2001).]
Old 06-21-2001 | 11:52 AM
  #4  
Trainman's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 7
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From: IL
One piece of advice I would give for the first few runs is don't worry about performance the least little bit. You have a lot of stuff to worry about, like what staging lanes should you be in, following hand signals from the officials, figuring out how to stage. Use the first couple of runs to figure this type of stuff and then worry about RT's a little more.
Old 06-21-2001 | 02:43 PM
  #5  
TomP's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
When I was a newbie, the guy I went with had us park off to the side, in the parking lot, out of the staging lanes. We went up to the bleachers, and he made me watch a few races so I could get the hang of what was going on.


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Old 06-21-2001 | 10:14 PM
  #6  
unknown_host's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,245
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
i have been to the drags quite a bit, my uncle races novas. i was just curious as to how well my setup could do if driven properly
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