1gary

Your T5 has a shock value of what??.Humm. Then if your doing it right, nitrous isn't being applied below 2500 and you have the kit to properly retard the timing on the top end.(I mean any amount that is meaningful) Nitrous is hard on cranks,well really hard on engines in general. It is true that alot of people in their quest for speed over the yrs overlook the build they did and if the build was enough to cover what they are currently doing.

My bottom line is that you trying to cut corners you don't needlessly invest in a process to a item to find if a issue arises it ends up being a throw-away and if you applied that cost to a quality crank you chances of a rebuild are greater.

In terms of aftermarket blocks,cranks, and alike,there are different grades or levels that address the power output your at to fix some of the problems guys talk about.Certainly the aftermarket provides the larger c.i.answer where you not running the como to it's outer limits.Sort of knowingly turning the wick down and still be extremely fast.

Nothing has change except the consumer. It still is how fast do you want to go and how much money are you willing to spend.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Well, if you call it cutting corners, others call it whatthey can afford. Then there are those that like to experiment and push things for the heck of it. Buying expensive parts is not a must for everyone, wether it is budget or just do not care. The killer seems to always come down to rpm from my experience, boost at low rpm seems to keep things alive.

Upside to any old sbc build, If you use a swap pan and the engine let's go, you lost more money. Damn sbc pans are free.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

if i have seen several people make 800hp with a stock motor, i am willing to try it myself. i dont call that crazy or cutting corners at all. before the 80's, aftermarket engine parts werent nearly as common as they are nowadays. there was stock blocks and cranks running nitro lol

Mystyk_Wynds

Well that conversation between me and a machinist was for a very odd engine. It was for an iron duke aka 2.5 tech iv. All of the aftermarket go fast parts had to be either unique, or heavily modified stock. Only three performance parts readily available were camshafts, lifters and valves. So yes, I had to research heavily into what COULD be done. Afterall this was a crank that only had 1 bell, at the rear, wieghed 30-35pds, and 150hp-175hp had been known to break it in half.
Now back on subject. his stock lower end may be able to handle to turbos, not sure about nitrous, and pushing it past 6k most likely would grenade it under that stress. I was merely pointing out cheaper options to look at.
if he knows the limits then he might not push it much into them. This would allow for his motor to stay together while he invests that much money into building a new one made to take it. Unless they're hard core draggers or autoxers, ppl who build motors like these very RARELY ever push the limits of even the stock components.

project89

iTrader: (1)

stock junk stuff wins again
so far the total is 3 built transmissions broken 2 built 700's and the latest one built 4l80
1st 700 was a mild build broke( exploded) the sprag
2nd was fully built and it just ate up the clutches
4l80 was built and now 2nd gear slips

think its time for a th400 lmao

sad part is i havent even gotten to hit this thing with the nitrous yet

1gary

And where do you have the waste-gate set on your combo??. Details matter.

project89

iTrader: (1)

20 psi right now , should be making real close to 750-800 hp at that boost level

1gary

What do you guys consider a expensive crank??.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

A 4l80 is just as good as a th400 from my experience, just has OD. And more expensive, lol. Least I have seen then hold is 600.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

you should have been able to make a bone stock 4l80e work for awhile, much less a built one. did the same guy build all the trannys?

an expensive crank imo would be a bryant billet crank at ~$2500+.

1gary

I am just trying to answer of a aftermarket crank and what would be too much to pay.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i built the 700's, the first one i knew wouldnt last long as it was a mild build, it wa sonly meant to go behind a mild 355 that i had built back in the day never thought id break the sprag first thoug. i figurd it would be better then the stock 700r4 that was in the car at the time

the second one i built with the best parts i could find reusing some of the parts from the first one

the problem with the 700r4 is my setup makes boost at part throttle at very low rpms so a constant presure valve body prolly would have made it live

i bought the 4l80 with a manual valve body off ksl ( utahs craigslist) so i dont know who actually did the work on that one

going to talk to the guys on my local forums and see who a reputable builder is and have it gone threw

A.Delaney

Dang, I was thinking $1500 was kinda expensive for a sbc crank. Let alone $2500. I guess I was blinded by Scat and Eagle all these years. Even a Callies crank can be had for $1000.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i really want to keep the 4l80 for its over drive, speedlimits on the highway here are 80mph and most of the time u have to cruise at 85-90mph as to not get rearended on the highway od+ 2:73 gears make for a nice cruiser as i do use this car just about as my daily driver, atleast till the snow starts falling.then ill have to start driving the gas guzzling silverado 2500

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

eagle and scat cranks will work fine for 90% of the streetable builds out there. anything over ~1200hp you will want to start looking at nicer stuff. if you need to turn 9,000rpms for 500 miles straight, you will need a nice (and custom) crankshaft.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Ugg, driving the 12 mpg 01 silverado right this second...

1gary

It has been a known fact that heavier cars drag raced break parts more easily than lighter cars.These cars are heavy.It is that compounding factor that asks for the better quality internal engine parts.Do-overs cost twice as much.I don't think a oem treated crank has any business being a engine anywhere near the expectation of a 1200 HP engine.For you to get that kind of output out of a first gen SBC you'll spend some heavy money elsewhere in the engine and put the whole deal at risk.I could see a 600 to 700 hp engine being viable.The price range I was thinking of was from $700 to $1,200 for a good guys crankshaft that is at the very least three times as good as a stock forging. The added benefit is a lighter stronger crank buzzes up the rpm range faster.(well that's taking into account the rods/pistons combo) Your added investment is,at the $700 level,$200 to $300 more than a decent oem forged one.Again two things,heavier cars break parts more easily and your only as good as your weakest link.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i see a stock crank viable at 600-700hp as well. along with stock rods, and stock pistons. lol
stock FORGED cranks are good to 1000. my earlier comment of "needing nicer stuff above 1200hp" was in regards to eagle/scat stuff. above 1200 you will want something nicer than a 4340 eagle or scat crankshaft.

one thing you arent mentioning, gary is n/a or power adder. in order to make 1000hp n/a with a sbc, you will need to turn it at least 9,000 rpms. i dont think the stock block or any factory forged crank would be able to do that. but if we are talking a turbocharged sbc, then you can hit 1000hp by 6,000 or 6,500 rpms. a stock block and factory forged crank will handle that.
rpms are the biggest issue.

1gary

That is where I respectfully disagree.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i feel ur pain specially when i have to take the truck on 140 mile round trips with gas being 4.50 a gallon. its kinda sad when ur race car gets better millage then ur truck lmao

mines all done just a lil after 5,500 prolly around 5,700 id say shes had it.

i setup my combo to make all its power from 2,500-5,500 and she came out perfect. i have off idle boost response and she pulls like a freight train from 2k to 5,500. i think i should switch my .63 housings for some .8x's though a lil lag would be nice for some traction

1gary

Yeah.That's what I would expect with turbos to have a big fat middle.

A.Delaney

What is considered a "Good guys crankshaft"? If Scat and Eagle are lower quality. Who makes a high quality crankshaft that isnt going to break the bank? Manley,Lunati,Callies,Howards,Cola,Crower, Ohio Crank?

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

most everything is forged in china now. a majority of the benefits of slightly more expensive crank are better machining and finish work. need to get over $1,000 or so to see much of a difference in material quality, imo.
fyi- scat and eagle sell higher quality cranks as well, not just their "cheap" stuff.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Cola from what I can remember were stout pieces. Callies is deep in the game, then there is sunnys. There are some companies that make you pay but you get some HARD parts.

1gary

Howards is American made and machined.Just a FYI.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Yep, forgot them.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

howards = callies.

Shagwell

Pretty much. - I've run several Howards products and will continue to use them. Good stuff, especially for the $.