chute mounts and attachment points
#1
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 10,401
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
chute mounts and attachment points
im going to need to add a chute to my car here shortly.
my plan is to do the chute mount off the rear cage bars,ill install a crossbar and run a tube to just infront of were the liscence plate goes, and cut a hole behind the plate.this way at the track i can flip down the plate and slide in the actual chute mount and secure it with 2 bolts threw the tubes.this will keep everything nice and hidden when street driving
but were are u guys attaching the chutes to on non backhalfed cars
my plan is to do the chute mount off the rear cage bars,ill install a crossbar and run a tube to just infront of were the liscence plate goes, and cut a hole behind the plate.this way at the track i can flip down the plate and slide in the actual chute mount and secure it with 2 bolts threw the tubes.this will keep everything nice and hidden when street driving
but were are u guys attaching the chutes to on non backhalfed cars
#2
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Posts: 17,169
Likes: 0
Received 136 Likes
on
114 Posts
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
Behind the plate of a Camaro is a little high for a chute mount pull point. It should pull from the height of the frame rails which is where the bumper is mounted. Firebirds are better at hiding the mount because the plate is in the bumper.
You need a mounting kit similar to this but it's not going to be hidden away when driving on the street unless you have a Firebird bumper.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/instal.../fbodpara.aspx
You need a mounting kit similar to this but it's not going to be hidden away when driving on the street unless you have a Firebird bumper.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/instal.../fbodpara.aspx
#3
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 10,401
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
i was going to come threw the liscence plate area only for the mounting the chute pack
i know the attachment point should be lower then that ,im ust trying to avoid cutting the hole in the bumper.
im thinking maybe bring the attachment point out just below the bottom of the bumper?? or would that be to low
in all honesty i will prolly never use the chute but i want it to work incase its ever needed. i also know that to high of a mount or to low of a mount can cause a wreck.
i just dont know were were the high and low limits should be for the attachment point
i know the attachment point should be lower then that ,im ust trying to avoid cutting the hole in the bumper.
im thinking maybe bring the attachment point out just below the bottom of the bumper?? or would that be to low
in all honesty i will prolly never use the chute but i want it to work incase its ever needed. i also know that to high of a mount or to low of a mount can cause a wreck.
i just dont know were were the high and low limits should be for the attachment point
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 999
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: 350 vortec
Transmission: TH350 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10 bolt grenade
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
I've always been told that the pull point should be roughly the same height as the camshaft. Any way around it I think you're going to be cutting the bumper up.
#6
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 10,401
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
#1 89 rs with 3.1 turbo 12 sec ride
#2 89 iroc sb 406 large frame t6 76mm upgrading to 88/91mm down the road
#3 87 fireturd destroked 3.4 v6 custom bw s475, close ratio 6 speed ( to be completed when the iroc is done )
chute is going to be needed on the iroc
#7
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
chute attachment point will be basically going where the rear crash brace mounts are, draw a line between them and then triangulate the center to it. You will be drilling a single hole into the center of the bumper, no way around it. A lot of guys spray paint the inside of the tube flat black so it creates a shadow when the chute mount isn't in place. I have seen people on show cars create a small filler panel almost like a trailer hitch ball cover type deal to fill in the hole better if you can visualize that while the chute mount is off the car.
Trending Topics
#8
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 10,401
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
chute attachment point will be basically going where the rear crash brace mounts are, draw a line between them and then triangulate the center to it. You will be drilling a single hole into the center of the bumper, no way around it. A lot of guys spray paint the inside of the tube flat black so it creates a shadow when the chute mount isn't in place. I have seen people on show cars create a small filler panel almost like a trailer hitch ball cover type deal to fill in the hole better if you can visualize that while the chute mount is off the car.
as long as i center the hole around the tube i guess i could just make another tube to slide into place on the street that has a sheetmetal or whatever filler plate painted the same color. so when its slide in it fills the hole.
and its not even the hole that bugs me im trying to keep this stock apearing as possible no cowl hood, no sumped tank with external pumps etc
im going with the stock iroc hood, dual intank 340lph pumps,even mounted the intercooler back from the nose opening a bit so its not that noticable,may spray it black to hide it a lil better .
tinted windows to keep the cage out of sight from the outside
only thing u might notice might be the 4inch ex system thats dumped before the rear axle
#9
Supreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Southwest Florida
Posts: 4,627
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: projects.......
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
Pull point should be camshaft height, as noted above.
If you're going to put it on the car, pull it everytime your go through the traps. If you don't use it till you need it, by the time you realize you need it it will be too late for it to help. - Best words I was ever told about a chute, "live by it and die by it". If I go past the 330' mark under power the laundry is coming out at the stripe.
If you're going to put it on the car, pull it everytime your go through the traps. If you don't use it till you need it, by the time you realize you need it it will be too late for it to help. - Best words I was ever told about a chute, "live by it and die by it". If I go past the 330' mark under power the laundry is coming out at the stripe.
#10
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Posts: 17,169
Likes: 0
Received 136 Likes
on
114 Posts
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
I pull mine once or twice a year just to use it. Until I hit 150 mph, I'm not even required to have it but it's nice to know it's there, just in case.
#11
Supreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Southwest Florida
Posts: 4,627
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: projects.......
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
hhhmmm, I don't seem to have any direct shots on PB. Here's how I had it before. It's remounted a bit higher now to get it above the edge of the spoiler to help it deploy quicker.
#12
Supreme Member
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: The "D"
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Car: A Portly 85 Z28
Engine: 4.530 X 4.250 BBC
Transmission: under rated for this application
Axle/Gears: also under rated
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
you could always just mount a trailer hitch on it, pop the pull point into that...just sayin
#15
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Posts: 17,169
Likes: 0
Received 136 Likes
on
114 Posts
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
Stroud Prostock chute.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Stroud/877/4301/10002/-1
Don't worry about the math formula, It will provide enough stopping power unless you get over 180 MPH.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Stroud/877/4301/10002/-1
Don't worry about the math formula, It will provide enough stopping power unless you get over 180 MPH.
#16
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 721
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 1982 Camaro
Engine: 555 BBC
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Aluminum Moser 3.89
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
Easiest chute mount is laying an 1 5/8 piece of tubing in the bumper groove and attaching a universal parachute mount to it through the bumper cover.
#17
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
I'm a little ways off from needing a chute and with 13" C5 brakes up front, 12" LS1's rear, I stop pretty well. Havent tested the new brakes from 140mph yet but on stockers I have enough room to stop before last exit on my track, which does have a short shutdown. I figure one of the smaller chutes would be more than enough
#18
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 10,401
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
I'm a little ways off from needing a chute and with 13" C5 brakes up front, 12" LS1's rear, I stop pretty well. Havent tested the new brakes from 140mph yet but on stockers I have enough room to stop before last exit on my track, which does have a short shutdown. I figure one of the smaller chutes would be more than enough
#20
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Posts: 17,169
Likes: 0
Received 136 Likes
on
114 Posts
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: chute mounts and attachment points
I run small drag brakes on the front and GMC Jimmy disk brakes on the rear. The rear disk are much better than the old Ford drum brakes I was using.
At 146 MPH, I've taken the first turnoff once but had to be really hard on the brakes to do it. I bet the front rotors were glowing. Normally I just back off and slow down enough to take the turn at the end of the track.
If I pull the chute before the finish so that it opens slightly after I cross the finish, I can take the first turn off with moderate braking. If I wait until after the finish to pull the chute, there isn't enough time for it to deploy to take the first turn off but it slows me down enough that only light braking is required to take the turn at the end of the track.
The Stroud chute is fairly easy to pack. At the end of the track, I bunch it up and put it in through the passenger door. Once back to the pit, it takes about 5 minutes to pack. Probably takes longer to hold the pilot chute in and lace up the flaps than it does to actually unfold the lines and fold up the chute itself. One person can do it but lacing up the pack is easier if someone else helps to hold the flaps from opening.
At 146 MPH, I've taken the first turnoff once but had to be really hard on the brakes to do it. I bet the front rotors were glowing. Normally I just back off and slow down enough to take the turn at the end of the track.
If I pull the chute before the finish so that it opens slightly after I cross the finish, I can take the first turn off with moderate braking. If I wait until after the finish to pull the chute, there isn't enough time for it to deploy to take the first turn off but it slows me down enough that only light braking is required to take the turn at the end of the track.
The Stroud chute is fairly easy to pack. At the end of the track, I bunch it up and put it in through the passenger door. Once back to the pit, it takes about 5 minutes to pack. Probably takes longer to hold the pilot chute in and lace up the flaps than it does to actually unfold the lines and fold up the chute itself. One person can do it but lacing up the pack is easier if someone else helps to hold the flaps from opening.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
IROCZDAVE (88-L98)
Interior Parts for Sale
1
09-13-2015 09:07 PM
dustint209
Auto Detailing and Appearance
6
09-09-2015 08:09 AM
db057
TBI
10
08-11-2015 10:11 PM