ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Well, going to look at a set of welds tomorrow, think they might hit the spot, between xpndbl3 and Matt, i think they will be the right choice as long as they clear the LS1 rear calipers.

28x11.5 or so will be the tire i will look for, or a 295/65, i really need a 28 inch tall tire, especially for the street with this 4.30 gear set.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

6" bs will fit pretty dang easily. 6.5" WILL require some trimming & hammer work. With the 50-series sidewall, a 10" wheel should work fine. With a shorter sidewall, say like a 325/35 on a 17" wheel, a 10" wheel would not be wide enough. That is why the BFG 295/50R16 works a 8"wheel, the tall sidewall.

rdway

I'm new to the boards but have been reading them for the past two months. I just massaged my rear inner fender well to fit 15x10's with a 5.5 bs. The tire I fit was the Mickey Thompson Sportsmanpro's with a 13.2 section width and 11.6 tread. A 6.5 bs would take a lot of work with a 15 inch wheel. Check out this link https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/whee...els-315-a.html

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

LOL, ninja edit, i want some 295/50/16 for the stock 16s on my car, perhaps in the future, i know the nittos i had (245/50/16) did ok, but they didnt do good enough.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

from a long time ago:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/orga...28x12-50s.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/orga...bs-anyone.html

much lower in the rear now:

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Yea, i was looking at those posts and you STILL have no posted pics of your handy work.

I did just dig int he garage and i have 2 sets of spacers i got off of some old third gens i have had in the past and it seems that 2 sets, as in 2 plates on each side will give between 7/16 and 1/2 more towards having a 6 inch BS, think i will surely do that to help with the rest of the work.

Xpndbl3, any tire rub? I am assuming 6 hours of work the answer would be no.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Nope no tire rub, just make sure your hand fits EVERYWHERE between the tire and the wheelwell. Cut out a bunch of metal and hammer the rest, bunch of welding, etc. I don't have the rims off to snap pics, maybe next week. I had another 3rd thread that had metal working pics, but can't find it anymore....maybe it's gone now. Regardless some of my hard work is getting cut out mid-january because i'm putting in the wolfe racecraft rear 2.5" diameter springs kit with adjustable height. Should compliment my racecraft front coilovers nicely. No more cutting springs or dealing with a-arm dropping to adjust what I want to accomplish

I also "may" cutout the rear torque arm area too because mine is hanging up on the floor ever so slightly. We'll see how far I want to take this, I have to be in the world of wheels car show in beginning of march, so I can't tackle too much.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

If you are talking about running 2 sets of slip-on spacers, I wouldn't do that. You wouldn't have much lug thread left, for the lug nuts to grab on to. Just go with a shallower bs, or cut more wheelwell out to fit what you want to fit.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Yea, sure you saw the pics of mine catching the DS tunnel, i hope the LCARBs i have on the way fix the issue, looks like it will, might even help the 60 foot, but i will never know since i did the jet extensions, raised the fuel level and will be going back with the LCARBs on already.

Otherwise, get us pics if you can, your handy work is needed by myself and many others so we can go into the project knowing what to expect.



It will be fine, i have long **** studs, it is a Moser 12 bolt and the studs are long enough that i have to use open end lugs as it is.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Yep, you'll be good on the lugs part. I'm still not a fan of spacers, much less stacking spacers. If I had to go that thick, I'd take a pair to a CNC shop & ask them to mill me 1 (for each side) the thickness of 2, out of 6056T6 billet aluminum.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

I seriously think i am going to stack them, bolt them down and weld them, that way the are 1 piece and now two. Thanks for the idea Stephen.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Don't stack spacers, if you're going to do this mod, then cut and weld the wheelhousings and do it right. No reason to put spacers on something with a 6 speed ever.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Here they are, ended up with them for 400$, they have only been used for mock up and are still clean as ever, just need rear tires now.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Spacers are a bad idea, especially on the rears and even with the longer/heavier studs that moser installs. If you _really_ need to run more than 1/4", and not something thick enough to run bolt on spacers (usually around 1.25" thick) then get some custom machined that _exactly_ fit the stud and hub locations and diameter. Allowing any relative motion between the spacer, wheel and/or hub/rotor hat/stud is just asking for broken studs.

Technically I don't believe they'll pass tech either, but I'd be surprised if someone noticed.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Even with the shank nuts for theses wheels? I would imagine they would allow for zero movement with them anyway, sure i am wrong.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

how about just cut cut cut and weld until they fit Bust out the BIG 5 pound hammer and have at it. You know two guys that did it, now you can too

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

LOL, that is the plan, i will resort to spacers if i have to on the street, i will not use them at the track at all.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

street or track, the tire is in the same spot and the clearances need to be the same. Get cutting!

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

uh....spacers are a bad idea. here's where i cut the bumpstop, and i beat the area by the lca in as far as i could get it.



do i have to call you a women again, or are you going to take our word on it the first time and not try it even though we say it's a bad idea?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

lol.....ls1tech ALL OVER AGAIN!

That's a pretty picture matt, I cut a lot more than you though....hmmm. Well maybe I'll cut out my hard work and keep going further, still up in the air

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

So, you cut the bump stop, then the plate you installed has a notch for the axle tube it seems right? I was ready for the LCA area beating, i had to do it on a friends car, did you also remove as much metal as possible before going to the BFH like i had done? Or did you just bang it in as far as it would go? Otherwise, no other issues besides by the LCA and bump stop/spring pocket?

Was i that called you a woman(not women) if i remember correct Matt, LOL. I just wanted someone with a 6.0 to comment and a direct answer to weather or not the valve height was the same as a 243, which i found out the 5.3 head is just different in nature before TSP drops the valve down.

AlkyIROC

Not mine but I did something similar many years ago when I was still running a small tire. With 15x10 and 5.5" of backspace, I was able to squeeze 29.5 x 10.5 slicks under the fenders. The tall tire also needs the front of the wheel well modified.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i took the bump stops out and started beating in everything else that i could. bfh ftw.

woman

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

after lots of cutting, beating, and removing the whole bumpstop area, my 28x10.5 hoosiers had around 1/2" clearance all around with a 5.5" wheel.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

LOL, ok, so is there any reason i should make my bump stop area have the gap like your above the axle?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i did it so when i finally get around to putting coil overs on the car, i can tuck like this:



this is a 29x9 with no spring in it to get an idea of what i wanted for ride height one day.

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

How did you get that 29.5 to work with out modifying the outer lip? I am mini tubbed and still need to modify the rear of the outer lip to compensate for the growth of the tire. Or did you leave the car the stock ride height?

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

not sure about all the year cars but my 85 has the seat belt retractors in the lower front inside corner of the wheel wells, makes it a bear to beat it in right there with the triple layer floor and re enforced seat belt mount area

Shagwell

I love my plasma cutter.

lol



The calipers will probably require some grinding to clear, but many have done it. - Cheapy parts-store universal spacers suck, but I have run single pattern billet spacers on more than one occassion, even on my car. Our spare wheels/tires are offset 1/2 further in; they clear fine, but I already hate how far the tires are tucked under the car, so I run spacers with them - 5/8 studs though.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Oh yea bro, calipers were ground down when I put the 12 bolt in the car. Pretty sure they will work fine, I really did t want the pro stars since everyone has them but that deal was hard to pass up.

Matt, that looks sick tucked that far up, any reason for the 9 inch wid tore instead f a 10 or more? I am guess it just fits easier with less tread section, but at minimum I want a 10.5, my car would hook hard as bell with a 29 inch tall tire though.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

less tire equals less rolling resistance equals faster times. no reason to run larger than a 9" wide tire. i keep a 275/60 on the car normally, and that is about a 28x9. they look good on the car in my opinion.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Ok, sure looks bad *** with rubber tucked like you have with no springs, really sets a third Gen apart from the rest. I am going to assume to make a 325/50 fit is no easy task then. Won't know till I try, will see if anyone has a set for mock up bfore I take the plunge, they would make for a killer street tire for goofing off with the pusssy **** mustang crowd.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

325/50 is 13.1" section width IIRC, 28x10.5W is 13.4, so yes they're much wider than a typical 28x10.5S

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

As long as I can use a 295/65 I can live, but if the 325/50 tucks, I will have what I have been wanting.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

the 295/65 is a tall tire...30" to be exact. or are you trying to say 295/55? a 295/55 is basically a 28x10.5, where as a 325/50 is a 28x12.5 or something like that.

i like my 275's



that's a very recent picture, about 6 weeks old.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Stick shift with no adjustable shocks and a 6 speed? This just for screwing around on the streets? I don't see the point in wanting more rubber since it probably won't make much of a difference. In fact some of the local street racers have found a narrower tire with more pressure on the tread available hooks better than a wider tire actually on unprepped/poorly prepped roads.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Thought a 295/65 was 29 inches tall, 30 is cool if I can tuck it but 29 is already pushing it right matt?

The 28 inch tall tires are for the street, blowing the 26x11.5x16s off on mor occasions than I like, so a 28 should help in conjunction wth the LCARBs and removing the front sway bar, that is what I am banking on anyway. I am looking for QA1s for the rear, sure they will help as well.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I don't like QA1 products, had too many fail from street driving on buddies cars. Personally I'd look into the mustang adjustable rear shocks from strange and then just buy the madman mounts to turn the lower shock mount 90 degrees and have at it. That's my plan if these coilovers don't fix my traction issues 100% in the spring. Probably should pop some weight out of this car too, since she's a pig. But I do enjoy my heat, wipers, and radio though Along with both front heavy corbeau seats.

tirerub

So are the bumpstops necessary on a drag car.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

those are the first things to be cut off to make room for tires

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a plan, except i think i could fab my own mount for the mustang shock setup. I found some 325/50/15s locally that i think i will take the plunge to buy, kind of exciting to get the wheels on the car with a 6.5 BS and not have meat hanging out the wheel well.

Then i will just be waiting on my Ebay lug nuts to come in, LCARBs are on the was as well as a A/F ration meter from innovative.

Found a MSD 6010 box on Tech that i should have on the way for the 86 TA, i am spending too much money lately, LOL.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Looking at the Spohn pieces that in my opinion are way over priced, if i can find something cheaper and just make it work myself, sweet, i would love coul pvers on my car

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Spohn...Q5fAccessories


But i would just need something that is about the same weight i assume, well, being fully adjustable, maybe not exact.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I'm going to install the wolfe racecraft 2.5" rear spring setup in the next month, it runs around $180 for it with springs. Still running the 50/50 rears unless something strange pops up in my launch that causes me to need the strange double adjustable rears. We'll see how it is now that I have the racecraft front coilovers on the car, so the nose should pop up better at the hit than staying locked down like before.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Cool, keep me posted, i have always relied on RS suspension to transfer weigh on the front with stock springs and stock replacement struts, the rear though, i have never really known what to do, the LCARBs are the first thing i have ever ordered to try to change how the rear reacts to launch.

gtpro700

Zone what innovate A/F ratio meter did you buy?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

This one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Innov...Q5fAccessories

gtpro700

Cool I picked up their LM-2 and installed it just need to wait for spring to use it now lol Hopefully there nice pieces. If anyone has experience with mine I wouldnt mind hearing what they think of it. Thanks guys and good luck Zone on your project. Seems like you got some nice goodies going at it this winter.

Link to mine:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm2.php

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Sweet man, you have EFI i assume to have all those features? Being carbed, i just need mine for direct read out and then the data-logging on my lap top to get her dialed in to perfection.

gtpro700

Actually I have a carbed setup just got a good deal on it so I went with it. Plus it is nice to have all the other features for that just in case reason lol

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Totally understand, i am buying so much i am cutting corners on stuff like that so i might get the turbo project running on motor, then built up the rest of the plumbing and what not before i install the turbo and IC.