brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

that might be how i do mine ****, its hard to keep a car that will run deep 9's (hopefully) to look like its still just a clean 12 second car lol

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

Okay.... I meant "The fullest extent" just short of taking a saw to the body of the car.

Shagwell

saw? now that's some archaic stone age stuff there. Plasma all the way!






yeah, my definitions are usually a bit more extreme than most.....

BlueBeast

I just "gutted my doors" so to speak. My doors have the big channel impact bars in them and I cut out some of the extra sheet metal and got 15.6 lbs out of it. Still have some more to do and yes the windows are still functioning perfect. Going to tackle the drivers door tomorrow.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

any pictures blue beast?

BlueBeast

I will get some tomorrow

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Maybe I'll get bored this winter and do it as well, 15 pounds without hole sawing the thing does sound pretty good. Love the flames you added to the front as well

BlueBeast

I was a little afraid of cutting so much out of it but I figured i can weld it back in. To my surprise its very sturdy and actually doesnt clank when you shut the door now.






This door brace is about 6 inches short now but is pretty damn thick.
Sorry the damn pics are so big again.

BlueBeast

thanks I am still getting used to them. The car was just blue for so long and the painter wanted to do something different on it so he came up with that. This is why it was being painted again.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

WTH happened? Contest or just heating the tires up for a pass?

BlueBeast

tire exploded in the water box scared the **** out of me. Still really no reason why it happened.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Damn man, guess it is a blessing it happened there rather than hauling **** down the track.

Shagwell

Ouch! - x2 to what Zone said though, could have happened at a much less opportune time.

I car I crew for ran over a small glass fuse in the pits one time and cut the tire, they were new too, just one pass on them and picked up the leak somewhere on the return road. - Seriously, a freakin little glass fuse. wtf?

BIG_MODS

iTrader: (9)

Good call IMO. The inside sheet metal on my doors was cracked from flexing every time the window is powered up and down (I welded the cracks up). Adding Swiss cheese to that would only make that worse.

This is a subjective thing I guess. My take on it is there is a reason the impact beams are there, to protect you in an accident. Is it worth saving 8 lbs to risk having a bumper on your lap? Personally I don’t consider this a smart option at all unless you have door bars that extend into the door AKA Nascar Door bars, which require completely gutting the door.


My doors weighed 89 lbs with the door panel removed. I removed the power lock mechanisms and a piece of sheet metal that was for the door handle which saved a couple lbs. Not gutting the doors is the biggest ‘street’ sacrifice on my car. IIRC road racers are getting their doors down to 34 lbs each with working hinges or if you go down to skins only gets you 150 lb weight savings but the doors must be bolted to the car. http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=13703

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

I dont drive my car that much nowadays it seems, i always pay attention as not to get T boned, so i dont have that big of a chance of getting hit but i am not immune, the 6 point roll bar i want will make up for it pretty good, but i am more worried about getting rearended and the lack of rear bumper causing irreparable damage.

gtpro700

Yea if you have a roll bar setup then if you get hit from the side the roll bar is far stronger then some cheap little metal braces in the doors that will probably do nothing against a car hitting you anyways. I dont know what I will do if I will gut mine or not. I am just concerned with the flex in the doors and the paint job. I will build a beastly bottom end for my setup soon and just make up the weight difference with some nitrous. Two ways to go faster. Get lighter or make more HP

BlueBeast

Cheaper to make lighter but I understand. I am doing both hopefully, building more power and cutting down weight. I don't really drive mine much anymore on the street just to many people that don't pay attention. That's why I did the door gutting.

BIG_MODS

iTrader: (9)

Stronger? yeah, maybe, but you need energy absorbtion in a crash = Force x Distance. If you add a door bar that is basically touching your elbow your distance is very short. Even if it is much stronger there isn't much crush zone to absorb energy. I disagree with your statement that the factory beams do nothing in a crash.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i agree that the crash bars are there for a reason. having them towards the outside of the door means that the on coming car hits it almost immediately, which is going to slow it's momentum down before hitting you. the door bar on my roll bar doubles for an arm rest, it's right in my kidney area when i sit in the seat. alot of this info was what made me scrap the project, atleast till i stop street driving this car on a regular basis.

Shagwell

Full 25.4 cage + harness & associated protective gear = I don't give a fu.......lol. Carbon fiber doors plus lexan windows = less than 15lbs each total weight (less than 10 IIRC).