ax136

I was just wondering if i should change out the rearend in my 84 camaro for something bigger. It is a 7.5 and i was planning on putting some gears in it put dont want to spend the money if it will just break axles. Any help would be appreciated.

Manic Z

iTrader: (1)

Depends. What motor are you running?

I have a 383 pushing 425HP and 450 lb/ft with a rebuilt 7.5", and it's holding up so far. And that's with drag radials.

Auburn posi, richmond gear, new axles, and a MAC girdle.

AlkyIROC

The only diff that will be a direct swap into a third gen is from another third gen or a fourth gen (same diff but slightly wider). If you want a stronger, bigger diff, you need to buy an aftermarket direct bolt in diff such as a 9", 12 bolt or Dana 60. With enough fabrication skills, time, money etc, any diff can be swapped in but because of the third gen's torque arm suspension design, none are an easy swap.

Although your 26 spline axles are not very strong, upgrading to 28 spline axles will help but it's not the breaking of the axles that the 7.5" diff is know for. The tiny ring and pinion teeth will usually break before you break an axle.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

knocked down a 1.45 60' in a buddy's 4th gen the other night... stock 3.42 10 bolt with welded up spider gears and stock axles. mild engine, weak hitting 200 shot. lol

ax136

thanks for the help.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

There is however, another option, i had one but just sold it since i found my 12 bolt. It was a replacement part from GM, it is a 8.5 inch ring gear Dana 44, direct bolt in, probably handle the power out put from about 90% or more of the cars on this site, my own included. Dana 44s are no punk, not like their Dana 60 cousin but damn strong differentials, i see them go for 600-800. So, if you see one and just want a piece of mind, jump on it, because they dont last long.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

do whaa? where did you buy a direct bolt in 8.5" dana 44?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Had one a while back, but i wold it to another member from here that is local to me.

They were a replacement from GM. I even saw one on Ebay a while back and posted it here so it would find a good home, IT DID! LOL.

Got it of CL though, from a local guy.

AlkyIROC

The Dana 44 isn't available from GM any more. To find one now that's still in good condition, it should cost about the same as buying an aftermarket diff.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

2500$(moser/strange)? If someone is dumb enough to sell one for that they can just sit on it. I got mine for 400, got a ring and pinion and sold it for 600$. The couple i have seen besides mine were for 600-800$. Well worth it in my book.

drjohn981

How about a Chrysler 7 3/4" rear from a 1970 dodge charger that's been modified (spring perches. torque arm mount, etc.) to bolt into a third gen? It's got 4:30 richmond gears, posi, and I have a spare pumpkin that could house some "street" gears. This was in a third gen for 7 years - so it fits.

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

Pics of the chrysler rear end in the car please.........

have access to a pile of these, as long as it was supposed to say 8.75" not 7.75"

AlkyIROC

I've said it in many threads. With enough time, money and fabrication skills, anything can be made to fit but it will usually end up being more expensive than buying a direct bolt in aftermarket diff.

The cheapest diff swap is a basic 9". Buy the bare housing package which includes a bolt in housing with axles. You swap over your third gen brakes and install a junkyard center section. The housing package is around $1000. The center section depends on what the junk yard charges. I found a 4.10 31 spline posi in an old Bronco once and it only cost me $100.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Yea, i dont like the 9 inch really just because i am like that, but when it comes down to brass tacks, i would use a 9 inch stock parts before a 12 bolt, the 12 bolt can be junk from the manufacturer, juts old and poor casting. Now aftermarket? I like the Moser/Strange 12 bolts. In reality, they will all break, but the 12 bolt usually uses the least amount of power and i dont have a track car so it is perfect.

AlkyIROC

The 12 bolt uses up slightly less power because of the higher mounted pinion but for the average person, you'll never notice the difference if you tried one then swapped in the other.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

x2.

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

I just put a Moser 9 inch in my Camaro. What an elephant! I'm assuming they don't break because they slow the car down so much it has no more grunt left. Overall I made the decision because I never want to break a rear. Never ever ever again!

The 7.5 inch is a turd! It's a big turn off for F-body cars all together. I would definetely consider ditching it and saving yourself future drama. Mine came apart on the street. It came apart on the track running 1.60 60ft's and it came apart running low 1.5's 60ft's. And I had Moser axels, long studs, Moser girdle cover, Richmond gears, Aftermarket posi, etc....


If you can take it easy on the street and stick to 60ft's in the high 1.6's-1-8's (12 seconed E.T's) than you'll probably be okay.

I'd get a Moser 12 bolt from the gate and be fine.

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

Didn't they put these in the 3rd gen firehawks? I can't understand why these wern't in all F-bods. Maybe all the L98 cars or something. That would have changed F-bod History!

drjohn981

Yes I meant to say 8 3/4" - I don't have pics of in the car - It is out now. Oh yeah, it has brand new brakes - drums, shoes, hardware, etc. I haven't put it in the "Parts For Sale" board yet, but I was thinking about selling it - $1000 complete, plus shipping.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

put an aluminum center in it and its lighter than the moser 12 bolt.

AlkyIROC

The Dana 44 was installed in the SLP Firehawks. These were not production cars but custom modified by SLP for resale.

My 9" center section is aluminum with an aluminum bearing support and an aluminum spool. I can lift it into the diff with one hand. A stock C7AWE case does have it's limitations. Depending on the weight of the vehicle, they can start to fail in the low 10 second range. The pinion pilot bearing support is weak and can crack and break. If it breaks, the pinion will get spit out the side of the diff. Any aftermarket case is stronger including the inexpensive heavy iron ones.

There are 2 different 12 bolt diffs. Car diffs use a different gear set than the truck diffs. The car 12 bolt is stronger but also harder to find.