mh82camaro

my car is a 82 berlinetta with a
327 (1968) 300hp est give or take with, 76cc heads, k&n,headman shorties,flowmaster, flexalite, msd ignition, edelbrock performer intake and 600cfm carb.proform gear drive, mild cam (not sure what degree)
700r4 with b&m 2400 stall and transgo shift kit with corvette servo piston
eaton posi with 4.10 motive gears

i am taking to local dragway on sunday morning...wondering what you guys think my time will be?

last year best i could get was 14.8 at 93mph
manual shifted/ lost power in 3rd

over last winter i installed
b&m 2400 stall
transgo shift kit and corvette servo piston
set up shift kit for automatic in 3rd (drive) and if you want 4th (overdrive) go to 4th...back to 3rd...etc

i will post my results sunday night...so i know what improvements i have to make...goal....13s at least


***any tips would be appriciated....

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

performer rpm intake and a 650 double pumper carb would be worth some ET as well. As for tips, put on some 26" slicks and have fun

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

Get that thing to launch and maybe 13.9, without a sub 2.0 60' time, I would say 14.3

Camaro4663

i would guess a 13.6 maybe a 13.4

mh82camaro

well i went today.....
... all i can say is how discouraging....all the money, time spent on the trans over the winter on stall and shift kit and the car ran worse....and worse everytime....it wouldn't shift fromt 3rd to 4th....and just driving normal it wouldn't shift from 1 to 2nd ....just slipping like crazy..so basically the trans can't handle the upgrades...

so now i don't know what i sould do......

have it rebuild with performance clutch...etc
or
buy a new trans
............but what about my stall i bought with 700 miles on it.....

i am up for your guys suggestions

does anyone know a trust worthly and reasonable guy that would rebuild my trans if i brought it to him in the northeast ohio area....

thanks...give me your ideas on what you would do....

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

throw the b & m converter in the garbage and buy a real converter....lots of companies to choose from that will build you a converter that will hold up.

mh82camaro

i didn't know b&m conertors were junk...heck i paid $350.00 for the thing...it seemed to be ok. my car going down the track wouldn't shift at the 1/8 mile mark....wouldn't go from 3rd (drive) to 4th or 4th to 3rd just stayed in the high RPMS...i had to let of it quite a bit just to get it to grab a gear and go. i just thought at first it was a valve body issue ....then it kept getting worse and worse with every pass. then going home it didn't want to shift from 1st to 2nd...when you step on it you can just feel it slippnig...and i know how these 700r4 are know for clutch pack issues....

any suggestions on what you would recommend to buy or rebuild with?

pancherj

With 4.10 gears and 26" tall tire I am crossing the 1/4 mile line at 6400RPM in third gear...what are you doing trying to get into 4th (OD) before the 1/8 mile...or did I read your post wrong?

Did you get the geometry corrector for the carb (for the TV cable)? Was the TV cable adjusted correctly? Is your fluid level low? Does it smell burnt? I agree about ditching the B&M. A good converter will cost double that, but drive SO much better.

siduramaxde

with the go pedal to the floor it shouldn't shift into 4th gear.

mh82camaro

thanks for the reply. i am not trying to shift into 4th at all.....i just load up the stall at the light and then go....i don't even feel it shift and next thing i know i am at the 8th mile and the rpms are up and it should be shifting and it is not...so i try to move from drive to 4th...nothing....back to 3rd...nothing....slow down to almost 30 and it shifts...cross the line at 60mph. so it may not even be shifting into 2nd...but under that hard acceleration...it just won't shift. got worse and worse every pass.
yeah i did get the geometry corrector for the car as well as the bracket for a edelbrock carb. fluid level is fine...just did trans service day before and check prior to racing. all i can say is that when i got the car the t cable wasn't even hooked up.i bought everything to hook it up right....and when i did the shift kit...i noticed that it still wasn't adjusted all the way . so i bet the clutchs are just burnt up...won't grab. thanks for the info on the convertor...i found on trans stage 2 in the summit racing catalog with new stall 2400-2600, mount,dip stick and tube, with trans with performance clutchs as well as shift kit already installed....so yeah maybe i should buy that one and forget the rebuild.
last year i manual shifted and the best run i got was 14.8 at 92mph but when i got to 3rd...i lost so much power...this time i got a 16. then a 18 then a 19.....jjust go worse and worse and just wouldn't shift no matter what i would do

mh82camaro

i put it into drive....loaded up stall...light turned green.....and mashed it.....never did feel it shift....rpm went reall high...wounldn't shift at all...was just stuck in gear i would say 1st tried to down shift into 3rd just to grab a gear...nothing...up shift...nothing....had to actually slow down and let the rpms drop just to to get it to shift

pancherj

I bought my 700R4 from performabuilt in northeast PA. Close by my house, so I went and picked it up. They ship everywhere. I am happy with it. It was a lot of money for their stage 2 ($1600 as I recall).

When I switched my trans, I had a no shift condition when leaving it in drive. I had to mess with the governor. It seemed like the higher line pressure mixed with the stock governor didn't mesh well. The new governer had lighter springs and weights. That fixed it. When I shifted manually, it worked fine. Your problem sounds like a transmission that is on its last legs.

mh82camaro

thanks. did the new trans come with the 82-92 fbody tailshaft...you know where the torque arm hooks up? did it come with the governer springs? well i am most likely going a new trans...just let me know everything that you had to hook up or swop over. i am probably going to swop over my b&m 2400 stall to the new trans...it only has 600 miles on it..seemed fine ...just trans couldn't take it...on its last leg like you said...lol

pancherj

Mine did come ready to swap in. Also cam with a trans cooler. I did need to swap my plastic gears to the ones from my old transmission so the speedo would read correctly. I also did eventually mess with the governor. You may not need to do either. If you tell them the rear gears and tire size, they will most likely throw the right speedometer gears in for you. Is your B&M a lock-up converter? If not, you should tell them that. I also installed a new TV cable while I had everything apart. I figured "why not?"

AlkyIROC

Sounds like your TV cable isn't adjusted properly.

mh82camaro

yeah thanks for the info...i just pulled it last night in 2hours...already had it out once...lol. oh well. but yeah i am with you replace cable.etc.....do it once and be done .....my stall is a lock up. thanks for the useful info

mh82camaro

i don;t know if it was ever right. wen i first got the car the cable wasn't hooked up. i got the brackets and adapters to hook it up...thought when i pulled it last year that it was hooked up right and it wasnt'....still had more adjustment to go.....so being that it hasn't been right for so long....i bet it just burnt up the clutchs....thats why i decided to say screw it and buy a new one and start over with a warranty..so i don't have to keep pulling trans out...know what i mean

neagan

iTrader: (7)

If the issue keeps geeting worse as the racing goes on; you might want to run a transmission temp guage to verify your temps when things are getting worse. Next, which trans fluid are you using? Last, it's difficult to tell from you post; but are you saying that you've had a transmission shop do the actual final TV cable adjustment? In other words, how do you know it's adjusted correctly?
I'm sure you already know that bringing up the stall by holding the breaks down is the fastest way to heat cook the trans fluid. What size cooler did you install? Nitro

mh82camaro

good idea i should run a guage for trans temp, trans fluid i am not sure ...right now can't remeber...i do know it is synthetic. i ajusted the tv cable per the transgo video. i did not know that bringing up the stall by the brakes is fastest way to cook the fluid..didn't know that. fluid looked ok coming out. cooler that was installed is the stock one on the radiator. should i install a additional one? see i beefed up a worn out trans i think....the tv cable wan't hooked up for first part of its life when i got it...i hooked it up and found that it wasn't even right still when i did shift kit. i am going to save up and just buy a new unit from summit racing....and sell my old one to someone that wants to rebuild it
thanks for the info and more suggestions on what to do on new trans would be helpful

neagan

iTrader: (7)

It does sound like you might have been fighting a loosing battle. And it sure is an expensive one, isn't it! Purchasing a unit that's been built and predynoed is a good way to go, but you definately want to install a very 'large' trans cooler.

Going back to your B&M converter, you did the right thing by going to a performance built 'street' unit. It's more important that you matched it to your torque range of your engine and didn't go to much higher into the stall range. I think where the reference of it being 'junk' is if you're going to actually race your Hot-Rod for a season. That's where you'll need a converter that gives you acurate consistancy and the longevity. I would NEVER purchase a used converter because of that; it's just not an area to skimp on. I would reask the guys who posted the comments that the B&M is 'junk' to expand on their comment more.
It may be that if you're running a high torque engine like a TPI unit, using slicks- that hit the pavement hard compared to street tyres, and drag race in a hot climate every week you'd need to upgrade. However, it would have been 'nice' if they would have given you a bottom line of what you'd need to spend and why?...

I've got many thousands of dollars into my IROC and it hardly ever leaves the driveway. I think someone put about 500k miles on it before trading it in as a low mileage unit, cause I've ended up replacing almost every single item on it. So I go down and race my wife's G37 Infiniti automatic and take home a trophy a good percentage of the time. I seriously doubt that factory Nissan converter is built anywhere as stout as your B&M unit. There's a lot of 3rd & 4th place trophies in my little pile over the two seasons, but the point is to wait until someone pipes up with some information of what will actually work for you before you toss out your hard earned cash. Nitro-Nicky

n1ffer

With anything regarding a failure or lack of proper operation, the first step should be root cause analysis.

Don't throw the baby out with the bath water. You want to correct the cause, not the symptoms.

The symptoms you are mentioning could be a bad TV adjustment. Adjusting the TV cable to the correct GM process works if the original transmission is installed with the original TV valve and cable.

When you make changes, the TV adjustment process may not work. To make sure you are correct you need make sure your adjustment is correct by viewing the actual valve is operating correctly at idle and full throttle.

You then need to check your pressures as outlined by TCI or Bowtie Overdrives, etc.

I believe both websites have an outline of checking pressures, and bowtieoverdrives.com has an overview of how to set the TV while watching the valve and plunger.

Start there first is my recommendation. Eliminate the basic easy set up problems before assuming the transmission or torque converter has failed.

neagan

iTrader: (7)

He's got a good point. Before I had my 700r built to full race standards, I did as you did, watched the video and reset the cable. However, something was off, and when I went to have the original trany serviced, I watched them reset the cable 'again' and there was a noticable difference.
Also, the shop that did my trans build did NOT install the converter that I specified, although they charged me for quality, expensive one. That's on me for not having done my research first and being brand specific with a part number.

Here is my Research information that I used back in Jan 2008 on what was the best upgrade parts available for the 700r4 transmission. Now they've allegedly finally been able to master the computerised automatic with a stand-alone box that will apparently take enough torque to twist our car's unibodies up like a pretzel. http://transmissioncenter.net/competition.htm I think it's Titled or was titled something about 700raptor.com

My original 700r4 was doing great burnouts with the sun gear shell sheared at the neck collar spline area. How many more runs down the track it would have made is certainly open for debate.....!!
Nitro

mh82camaro

thanks for all the helpful info. i will check it all out. as far as the stall i didn't have any problems with it until i was driving at wot. like i said before i don't think who ever built the trans in the past did it right....reason...tv cable wasn't hooked up for i believe 60,000 miles, next reason was when i installed the shift kit ...the fluid return spring on the pump...when i pulled the spring out....a valve body ball fell out...and when i was putting valve body ***** where transgo suggested...i found i had some it wierd spots where it didn't show them in the video. then i set the tv cable as said in video. had wife push pedal to floor...i adjusted it and watched it from underneath...it pushed it flush like it was supposed to all except 1/8 in. so when i drove it last year..even with the corvette servo...it never really did a hard 2nd shift like most shifts kits should...when i accelerated...it would go pretty good better than it ever has. another wierd issue was i set up shift kit for full auto instead of shifting... and when i tried to put it in 1st it would go into first but it was as if 1st wasnt' there..you give it gas and it would just make noise...grinding type. so i was just like oh well maybe that had something to do with shift kit....at least it shifts. that is why i am thinking about just getting that new unit from summit with beefed up internals, better clutchs, new tv cable, good up to 450hp...which is more than i need. i only have 500 miles on my stall....and no metal or burnt fluid came out of pan...so i am going to reuse it....i didnt want something to crazy...as you said...still wanted it to be streetable.
i am not going to race all the time...i jsut wanted to take it there and see how it did...if all the upgrades are helping...like i said before best it ran was hight 14,8 and i wanted to get low 14 poss high 13 and i would be happy with that ...with the motor i have right now
thanks again for all the info...i will check it all out
as for the trans cooler....how would you go about installing a bigger one....do they make kits to install to you radiator to help it have more cooling to the additional internal cooler?
i like the temp guage idea...i am considering that also