3rdBird

iTrader: (1)

I'm 2nd guessing my burnout technique, I think I'm not doing it long enough. I run M/T 28/10.50.15.
I start off in 1st gear rev it to 6k for about 4-5 seconds, shift into 2nd & bring it up back up to 5-6k for another 4-5 seconds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tD5_FndcAA

darkhorse91

i wait for the lights and floor it. spins the tires every time. although they are 300 tread wear on a stock suspension

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

bring it into second or third as soon as possible. Not sure if you make enough power to spin the slicks over in third or not, that's up to you. Get the tire speed up immediately, you didn't mash the pedal hard enough IMO. You should shift into second as soon as possible, if you have enough horsepower you can start it in second. I get the wheel speed up immediately then hold it until you hear the load on the engine change and/or rpm drops a bit then roll out of the burnout and stage. I'm running 12.5 or 13.0 for tire pressure after my first pass which always starts at 11psi if the tires are cold. Then recheck before every pass. Works for me perfectly.

Shagwell

^ higher gear = higher wheel speed. The name of the game is wheel speed, not engine rpm. I never turn over 4-5k during the burn-out. Manual vb here, so with the n2o combo I usually start in 2nd and immediately shift to high; with the blown combo I just use high.

I do a very short burn-out, just enough for the smoke to fill the wheel wells. - You should not be letting the tires catch before lifting.

- note, I can't watch the video from work, so these are just general pointers.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

what you describe doesn't match what you did in the video (you didn't hold that for 4-5seconds at least).

With a stick I drop the clutch in second or 3rd, whatever gear I'm doing the burnout in, with an auto I start them spinning and up shift as soon as the car will let me (without a full manual VB you'll have to bring the RPM's up before you shift to do it consistenly).

in both cases, most tires I've used work best if you heat them for a couple of seconds after you start getting the thick smoke off of them... you also feel when they get sticky, you get the feeling of them pulling the rpm's down if you don't get give it more throttle. Usually that works out to a nice 2 count, again, from the time the thick smoke starts rolling off the tires.

You don't want to go past that point, some tires will get greasy/slippery if you get them too hot, and either way, why burn more rubber off of them than necessary (the one exception to that is if the tires have sat around for a while or brand new... in a lot of cases they'll need a big, hot burnout to start working right)

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

i guess your having a traction problem? i just saw the other car's smoke then you were gone. i've never smoked my tires on a burnout. your car looks a little low in front. you should have your car weighed where each tire is on a scale and adjust the car accordingly. then play with suspension geometry. looks like you were also out of the groove.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Spinning tires on the launch is not a burn out, nor is it the way to get the fastest E.T. that you can get.

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

ok. i saw your other vids. that 406 can't breathe. you're hooking good. you only need to heat the tires enough not to spin off the line. if you can leave on cold tires then do it, and save the tires.

AlkyIROC

Wheel speed. Get out of the lower gears as soon as possible. First gear wheel speed is far to low to do any kind of good burnout. Never come out of the water box in second gear. That's a good way to destroy the intermediate sprag.

That burnout was more than long enough.

My burnouts are about the same length of time but I shift to high gear as soon as the tires start to spin. I use a burnout rev limiter set to 6000 and occasionally bounce off the limiter. That's an estimated 100 MPH wheel speed in the water box for 3-5 seconds. I've also done high gear only burnouts but it's hard on the high gear clutches. You want a lot of clutches in the drum to handle all that force.

Even top fuel cars do not need a long burnout. There have been cars that have done long smokey 1/8 mile burnouts followed by a very poor burnout and the car has run the same ET. For them, the long burnouts is to build heat in the engine and driveline. Good, newish sticky tires don't need long burnouts. A little bit of heat just enough to get the compounds in the tire rubber sticky is all they need.

kens86

i start out in 2nd and shift to 3rd (rmvb) as soon as my rpms hit 5k. just enough smoke to fill my rear wheel wells.

3rdBird

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input. Most of the time I do a decent job. I guess I get a little nervous.

I've heard the M/T's dont need much heat.

Heres a bad burnout, but a good shot of the car taking off.

It's all set up for the bottle, and the engine is about as tuned as it can get, so hopefully the spray wakes up the engine/converter/gears & improves the 60'

I'm going to have the car weighed & try to make some adjustments

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLUPsW3YdOU

Str8upChevy

With a 2sp glide, a MVB, and 4.88's I have to shift as soon as the tires start spinning. Then I only hold it there long enough to roll the smoke around the tires for a second.

I'd bring it up on the converter a little bit higher, and gas it just a little sooner. As soon as you see that last amber light come on full, you should already be on the throttle. You'll get a much faster R/T as well as a better ET. It looks like your pulling really good down the track though. What times are your running in it?

radical82

As others mentioned, more wheel speed!!! Get that sucker in the biggest gear you have that will spin the tires and hold it there for awhile....with practice you'll "feel" when the tires are ready to launch...

I hold 5K on the tach in 3rd (5speed car) with the help of a two step...when the revs start down off the chip rpm, they're warm enough!

(I also run about 3/4" lead on the left front and deep stage the heck out of the car, but don't tell the starter dude, it's illegal now!!!!!!!)

3rdBird

iTrader: (1)

thanks

darkhorse91

that was a joke about how i have bad traction

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Did not know this... i'll will have to go to third gear next time. I've always just reved up first really quick then shift second soon as i could then rode it out the box a little ways and then lifted, all in second gear. I never had a reason to burn out long, nor go into 3rd but i will if its hurting the trans

OUTATIME GTA

iTrader: (2)

Some good info in here.

Ditto, although I'm using DR's and rarely hold it long enough to smoke them. Once I have better brakes, I'll have to practice some more.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

My car leaves pretty soft for the times it runs since i dont have boost on launch. Long burnout is not necessary to get the ET streets to stick, especially at most tracks with good prep. 1.6x 60's is kinda weak for what this car should be doing.

I got a few vids of my setups over the years at the track doing burnouts and for the most part i've done it the same way every time. Only time i change is if the car starts to walk sideways on me and i have to roll out early. Once the tires start to haze up i'll let out the brake and ride it full throttle thru the lane alittle ways.
Always worked good except my last pass blew the tires off once boost hit. I think the car is starting to make good power now that the tune is coming around and the slicks are getting old. That was my best burnout of the day with good heat, so it should have held. 2 seasons on these tires and I find once you get 2 seasons on them they dont grip as good and really require some heat to hook.

project89

iTrader: (1)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KALeK3Rlcys

the second burnout is a good one and is all i ever do everytime i go out to the track and never have issues

the only time i do a longer burnout is on a set of street tires i have and its wierd cause most street tires get greasy with a big burnout but these wont hook unless i do a big burnout hell ive gone 1.8's on the street tires

AlkyIROC

I was going to post some links in my last post but Streetfire was down.

Here's a crappy digital camera video showing one of my burnouts. I think this was a high gear only burnout but I'm not sure.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/cama...ing_180345.htm

This was taken with a better camera and I know this is a high gear only burnout. At least these will show just how long I stay in the waterbox.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/cama...out_172588.htm

This is my typical low to high gear burnout. This was also the last track day of 2009. The following weekend it got cold and snowed.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/cama...ing_719269.htm

darkhorse91

i know this is a given for most of you seasoned vets but any noobs stumbling across this thread take note.

Drive around the burnout box then back into it. No water on track from front tires rolling through equals better traction. I can't tell you how many people I saw doing big smokey burnouts and still spinning the tires because they were on top of water

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

problem with my track you cant roll around the water box. You have to go thru it. Thats one reason I tend to continue my burnout thru the lane as far as i can so get rid of any water on the track because of my skinnies

On test and tune, if you get stuck behind a front wheel drive car thats not a drag type car, your screwed

Shagwell

With drag specific skinnies, driving through the water is not an issue. They are not designed to displace water as a street tire does, thus they don't pick it up and carry it out with them.

As Stephen eluded to, with an auto you should always get to your high/one-to-one gear before finishing the burn-out.

AlkyIROC

Some tracks are laid out so there's no way around the water box. You just have to live with it. Any that do offer room to drive around, drive to the inside. All the dirt and rubber is swept to the outside and you don't want to drive through that.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

One of the local tracks is setup with the waterbox behind the turn around from the staging lanes to the lights, so you kind of pull into one of the 2 lanes and if you want to do a burnout in the water box you have to back into it (it kind of makes sense to me, doesn't take any extra time because you can do all this while the car in front of you is staging... The only problem I can see with this is that you can't really use it for a FWD car.

the other tracks in the area all have the same setup where you're forced through the water box. It's not even that their isn't room to go around, they cone off the area to the side of the water box to prevent you from doing it. I don't know what the logic in that is unless they think they're saving time by forcing everyone to go through the water box, but that really makes a mess of the launch pad when you have a few FWD cars or some 4x4's make a few passes.

camarosrock1989

iTrader: (1)

I just step on the gas!
[img]

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Well, NEARLY a 1 year old thread, LOL.