greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

I gotta get outta here!!!! I feel like spring is sprung, working on the bullet again, what a good feeling to be in the garage wrenching on this thing, long nights of side work and many, many months of collecting and saving parts so it could all come together again.

Many of you guys may remember I burned down that 496 pretty good last summer, early summer at that. Well the damage was so great and $$$ it was impossible to make it back out in 09`. All of the carnage was caused by tight valve guides...I had the heads checked after I purchased them, the springs were all over the place, valve job was not all it could be but no mention of the .9 - 1 thousands stem to guide clearance. # 8 int and exh valves gauled the guides and both had the tulips ripped off along with a gapping hole in the #8 bore and barely any semblance of a cylinder head chamber. I had barely 40 runs on the heads, never the less, I found other things that may have contributed to the issue as well, maintenance will be ramped up on this engine compared to the last, that`s a for sure.

I ended up with a sleeve in #8 and brought the bores out to .070, some Kieth Black 2618 were selected for this one, they have the top ring about .415 down from the crown which is good for a bottle head like me, I shaped the domes a bit and cut the sharp edges down. Had to replace one rod, it was twisted slightly, all of the others were mag`d and resized. crank was checked for cracks and polished and still remains std/std I went with a childs and alkery ring this time, a high temp ductile iron especially developed for multi stage nitrous cars, hell fires were the only other option and I have heard stories of them being rough on a GM bore but okay for a dart/world block. strangely enough the second ring carries more gap than the top, thought it was odd but they say it works better that way..okay
Bullet cams ground me a new stick with the same lifts and intake duration, they increased the exh duration and used faster ramps than the lunati cam I was on prior, they also spread the lobe sep to 112 to handle both stages of gas. I had the heads welded/ repaired by Chris razor and douglas porting service, they found the guide issue and also showed me where we were losing flow in the valve job. A quick check on the super flow showed nice gains by dougs handy work and his partners valve job, intakes were gasket matched and a set of ss rev valves were used with some ti retainers and 260 seat 800 psi open springs. I finally stepped up to a big boys oil pan and let the street strip pan go. New set of hides on the rear and a barrel of c-16 and some warm weather is all I NEED!!

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

looks like a killer combo for the spring. Good luck with it, I'm still scrambling to find all the parts to toss mine together, stepping up 18 cubes, more cam, more compression and better heads this season. Still won't be running your times though

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

great news scott! i can't wait to get mine back to a track. i think i'm actually ready. been working in overdrive the last few weeks and just got home from a dyno and street tuning session from the guys at EFI Alchemy. so far i'm super pleased, just gotta get the car down the track now to see what it'll really do.

gtpro700

Greezemonkey your car is probably one of the nicest thirdgens I have seen! I cant wait to see this new motor combo pan out for you. Keep us updated with plenty of pics too mw66nova you care to mention any horsepower numbers off the dyno or are you keeping that to yourself for now? Either way you both of you have sweet cars and keep me motivated to make mine even nicer and faster. Finally the semi nice weather is getting here and hopefully I will be able to tune my car and get the kinks worked out this week for the nice weather to come.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

well, the numbers look a bit low, but honestly, most strip prepped auto cars have numbers that look low, so i'm not too worried about it.

367rwhp/336rwtq through an unlocked VIG3600/4l60e and a 4.11 geared 9".

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

Thanks GTPRO! Matt your LSX is injected now? (EFI alchemy)?

A.Delaney

Is that the 21043 oil pan? Do you have the stock k member?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

the lsx has always been injected, lol. if it had a carb i wouldn't have needed the guys down there, lol

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

seems about right... my LT1 with self ported heads and 230/236 cam made 369rwhp thru a th400/9"/28" slicks. with the new heads and bigger cam its around 425 with the new non-floating valvetrain.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

what'd your car run with those HP numbers? i'm VERY curious about how the car is going to perform.

gtpro700

Matt, I cant wait to see what kind of times your car will run. I wouldnt worry about the low numbers because auto cars tend to have some funky numbers sometimes on the dyno. My cousin has a sbc that was blueprinted to make about 525 flywheel hp and only put down 348/358 hp/tq with his auto. Hopefully it was just a nice way to dial your tune in and you can use the track to see what type of power you really are making. When do you think you will make it to the track? If it ever stops raining where I am I might be able to start to tune my car lol

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

greeze, one of the reasons to run the wider 2nd ring gap is to allow any pressure/combustion that gets past the first ring to have a better chance to make it past the 2nd. helps with lifting the ring lands

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I know a guy who dyno'd 358rwhp and was running 10.80s consistently with 4k th350 and 4.11 9", so I bet it'll be a real screamer buddy.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

it`s a 21047, I have a aftermarket K but this would go into a stock one, the front depth is the same as my street strip pan and the new width wouldnt interfere with anything, the rear sumps really shorter than my old pan and the rear sumps length is the same.


Matt, I ve been away what can I say....besides let me see a pic of this LSX in your car! what kinda times you looking for with that?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

here's a picture from this weekend:



OK, BACK ON TOPIC!!! i didn't mean to hijack the thread scott! more PICS!

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

everything is setup for the bottle, so without one its a complete slug. it runs around a 7.30 in the 1/8 on motor. lol...

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

one of my friends runs like 7.80's on the motor and 6.0x on a 180 shot....it almost dies when he launches off the bottle

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

wow even off the bottle I expect to see 9.70 1/4`s and 6.10-6.20`s in the 1/8..you guys gotta get a ride in a BBC :-}o !!

Matt that`s pretty Bitchin, always thought you`d be a carb guy too

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I think my entire motor cost less than your heads though Scott

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

Glad to see you are getting it back together. You should see many more 8's.

slow86305

greezemonkey what torque arm do you have? I put bbc in my car and am have problems getting it to hook up. I have full spohn suspension except for a jegs torque arm. The car hits the tires to hard. I talked to steve spohn and he said i need a longer torque arm. I moved the rear control arms up one hole. That helped a little.


thanks

Ryan

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

I have a c/m spohn full length and I have ran into the same issues with this one..hit hard then unload then hit again...I believe its called "porpusing" I found that controlling the rear axle with better shocks fixed the problem, I`m using qa1 single adjustables, I can "black track" to damn near the 1/8 now so I know its not unloading. leme hear about this bbc?

slow86305

i have the same shocks set at 4. What are yours set at? Maybe i can stiffen the shocks up instead getting another torque arm. My car skates all over the place.

572 merlin block
rhs 360
comp solid roller
profiler intake
dominator 1150
28by9 mickey ts

i get 1.5 sixty foot leaving at idle or 4 grand.

thanks

Ryan

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

i think thaat putting a 10.5 on over the 9 inch would help a ton....

Shagwell

hellssssss yes! Looking great man, good luck with it. - I think I may be screwing up letting my 496 go, she's treated me very well especially for as hard as I've hit her(lol).

Pending some things happening in my current class we maybe holding off on the new n2o combo and putting the blown combo in. I'm sure some great carnage pics will ensue on here.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

Hey Ryan,

Tighten them for sure.. the axle is uncontrolled..drops too fast on the hit and then springs off the ground unloading the tires. the reason the car gets off the tire is the axle is lifiting and unloading, then the car falls back over it regaining traction and then lifts once again until the axle unloads once again. An anti roll bar and some good shock adjustments should put you into the 1.3`s easily (on 10.5`s) ive got no experince with the 9`s so hard to say about what times they are good for but I think josh used to run 9`s on his and did well. I run mine on 6 on a fair track and 7 on a good track. You`ll know when you hit the sweet spot. Tire shake usually tells me the limit..if you get that in the first 20 ft or so and then it rolls out fine..your close. Singles only can band-aid soo much you know..Lol !

Thanks ****..I`ve been following your progress on here and the bullet, your car has come out great and I like to hear about the bottle runs for sure! Ya know Ive grown partial to this budget stroker BBC, I think I can take it to 8.50`s on two kits and thats been the goal all along, probably is a stretch but hey it`s something to gun for besides pocket money at the street legal track events.

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

are you STILL running that th350

Shagwell

Deffinitely do-able. I've only twisted it out the 1/4 once on the spray, and that was on the base-line tune-up with the diffuser and I killed the spray just past the 660' due to a surge(was pig rich); went 8.71@142. - Some don't believe me, but those who know it to be true have laughed to no end as to what's in that motor:

- GM 2-bolt block, BME "396" forging aluminum rods(std weight rods, not nitrous rods, but not lightweights), Ohio 4340 crank, SRP 13:1's, old 345cc big brodie conventional heads, big brodix single plain, an off-the-shelf comp roller spec'd for 600+ci(it's .802/.780), a 1050 holley dom, and a single stage Diffuser. - Carb to oil-pan and balancer to driveshaft I have less than $5k in that combo, lol. - The convert is a good 1k rpm too tight; it's for our blown combo.

I keep it pilled around .115 on the nitrous though, and hit it 100% off the brake.

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

thats some pretty cool stuff ****, going fast on a budget!

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

You betcha... I have a confidence in it too, it`s amazing that this trans has had no clutches in 3 yrs and no hard part failures yet in the 5 years Ive had it. This year we`ll be putting in a tighter converter and putting a solid 400 hit to it on a regular basis, should go or blow. I`ve been thinking about that turbo glide for the next gear box..use all three on a good track or two on a marginal.

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

thats awesome...have you put a new bell on it? gives me faith that mine will maybe hold together lol

slow86305

Thanks for the help. Ill try to make to the track next week. Ill keep you posted.


Ryan

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

Nope stock bell, long story short is the first year the trans was fine, broke the low reverse lugs on the case and then transfered it all into another case and cracked the bell on it over the next season..third case now with a good 100 runs on it with no probs yet. Got rid of the urathane mount and put a stock rubber GM mount in there and also put a front motor plate in..no bell issues since. This trans has had quite a bit done to it,

mealonized and re-hardened input shaft and drum
lightened sun shell
36 element sprag and drum
rollerized front to rear
pro tree brake with a custom made spool valve
alto redline frictions, the quick release 4l60e low reverse steels
and who knows what else that magician has done to it !?? but it works flawless everytime..no surprises.

I just watched him cut the converter open last week and the fluid looked and smelled like the day we poured it in. ( we wanted it tighter so we could hit it with more dope )

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

thats awesome stuff. i'd like to stay with the th350 over a th400 mainly for the weight/power eating that the 400 tends to do.

btw i love your car

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

well if you ever have problems keeping one together the guy that built it is on this site now and then..vortex converters out of romeo mi, smartest mf`er we have around here, although lately he has expressed intrest in only doing converters but hes a good friend if you ever had the need. This one might go for sale eventually, he`s been talking about cooking up one of those powerglides for me...a th400 that can be t-braked in 1st or 2nd..ohh the options :-) And thanks, for the compliment!!

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

those trans are definitely cool, and would be great for slippery tracks. can't wait to see some results from the track this year

Shagwell

just some FYI on the "turbo glides":

Several companies now offer the 1/2 brake option in their TH400 vb. Many variables as to whether or not it will help; if you're loosing traction instantly at the hit, leaving in 2nd will increase the wheel speed and may just make things worse. The VB, upgraded input and int shafts, as well as the billet forward clutch hub, 36 element sprag, and the case saver tab & snap ring will make for one bad-*ss 3/2 speed 400. - I'm sure your guys knows this, but a 2nd gear launch adds a metric sh* ton of load to the shafts/converter, but it lessens the load on the sprag(already locked when you leave; no 1-2 shift). - If your converter is perfect for low gear launches, it will likely stall higher leaving in 2nd.

* for note, the one I'm running is not nearly that good, lol.

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

Is your car running or any passes made yet?