kerplunk318

iTrader: (3)

Went to 75 80 tonight for the first time since i swapped the auto for a t56. The car felt good and pulled hard but I couldnt hook up at all. Im running 315 nitto drag radials and the best 60 ft i could muster was a 1.9. Im running a factory suspension setup. Best ET was 12.9 as opposed to a 12.6 with the auto. Most of my 60 ft times were over 2 seconds. I tried heating the tires and not with no difference. Do I need some ET Streets? A torque arm? The rear shocks are kybs in pretty good shape. MPH was 108 if it helps.
Motor is a 406 with rpm heads, flat tappet cam with 226/234 duration. I was expecting a mid 12 but never came close

http://www.facebook.com/video/video....0682905&ref=mf

Thanks in advance

89formula350b2l

iTrader: (11)

Is it spinning or bogging down?

AlkyIROC

Can't see anything on facebook unless you're a member of facebook. Try posting the video somewhere else like streetfire.net or youtube.

Post a timeslip with the auto and post a timeslip with the manual.

kerplunk318

iTrader: (3)

The slips are too faded to see after being scanned.

Auto Best
60ft: 1.83
ET: 12.68
MPH:108

6 Speed Best
60ft: 1.90
ET: 12.91
MPH: 108

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fmLuCMunOY

It didn't bog at all, just spun like hell. I tried launching off idle and still no luck. I've heard drag radials don't do as well with manuals?

AlkyIROC

That's not enough information for a timeslip. Need a complete breakdown to see what the car is doing all the way down the track.

kerplunk318

iTrader: (3)

Auto

RT: .274
60ft: 1.832
330: 5.244
1/8: 8.090
1/8MPH: 86.12
1000: 10.544
1/4: 12.632
1/4MPH: 106.89

6 Speed

RT: .357
60ft: 1.903
1/8: 8.319
1/8MPH: 83.24
1/4: 12.917
1/4MPH: 108.59

The track I wen't to yesterday didn't show 330s or 1000 ft times.

AlkyIROC

Auto
60 = 1.832
60 - 1/8 = 6.258
1/8 - 1/4 = 4.542

Manual
60 = 1.903
60 - 1/8 = 6.416
1/8 - 1/4 = 4.598

More numbers gives a better breakdown of a run.

Given that the manual was making 1.7 MPH more than the auto, more power was getting to the wheels. With the manual, the 60' times were worse and it could be for any reason such as too much torque off the line, poor track prep, worn tires spinning, etc.

Breaking down the run into sections, the car was slower all the way down the track. Slower 60' time, slower time from the 60' to the 1/8 and slower time from the 1/8 to the 1/4 so all that can't be contributed to bad traction. If you had the same ET as the auto, your 1/4 mile time would still have been slower.

Because of the better MPH, I'd rule out weather conditions or a vehicle weight change with the tranny swap. The only thing I could see which would result in a slower ET all the way down the track is the shift point in relation to the powerband.

The T56 is really a 4 speed with two overdrives. If geared properly, you should be crossing the finish line at or just before the shift into 5th gear to make the best use of the power. There's also the delay factor in the time it takes to shift. That split second between the gears will slow you down unless you're brave enough to powershift without a clutch.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

thats about all i could do with nittos also. 1.9's... they suck. ok for street tires, but dont expect much at the track.
most any other drag radials will make a world of difference. also work on your shifting. most people are not very fast with their shifting and lose quite a bit of time that way. powershifting is the only way to go, imo. keep it floored, and tap the clutch just enough for each shift.

drperformance

iTrader: (5)

put back in the auto if you are looking for a drag car

AlkyIROC

A DOT "slick" is not designed to run on the street. Driving on the street heats and cools the tire excessively. The oils in the tires to make them sticky will dry out and won't perform at the track like they should. The only reason for a DOT slick is to race in a class that demands a DOT tire. If you don't race in such a class buy a second set of rims and have slicks mounted on them just for the track and leave the street tires for the street.

As I already mentioned, you were probably spinning off the line but even if you hooked up to equal the 60' time you got with the automatic, you were still running slower all the way down the track so it wasn't just a traction off the line issue.

kerplunk318

iTrader: (3)

I'm not looking for a drag car, I just think that i should be cutting better than 1.9 60 60 fts with a 406, 3.73 and 11 inch wide drag radials; am I wrong?

It looks like I'm gonna invest in a set of extra wheels and slicks, and work on the shifts, thanks for the advice let you all know how it goes.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

1.53 60' in my 4th gen with et streets on stock 16" wheels. only chassis mods were jegster torque arm and eibach pro lowering springs. car made 376rwhp, and i was dumping the clutch at around 6200. had a 12 bolt with 4.30 gears.
it would probably have done the same on a set of m/t drag radials as well.

Shagwell

I went consistent 1.66-1.69 60fts on the 315/35/17 nittos with my stick. My buddy's '02 stang bested a 1.69 on the nittos, averaged 1.70-1.72.

W/o a tuneable suspension it's hard to make small sidewalls work, especially with a stick.

kerplunk318

iTrader: (3)

Its looking like I should see about an adjustable torque arm, and lower control arms out back, thanks for all the help

AlkyIROC

Adjust the pinion angle so it's down 2-3* in relation to the driveshaft.

The LCA should be parallel to the ground or down slightly in the rear. You'll need relocation brackets to change the adjustment. Changing the ride height by cutting coils or using drop springs will change the angle of the LCA, usually making it worse.

kerplunk318

iTrader: (3)

I'm at stock ride height so I'm gonna go with some control arms and likely the jegs torque arm

Shagwell

Stock ride height via new springs or 17+ year old original springs? - Check the angle of the lcas, as Stephen stated, you want level or slightly downhill toward the back(body mount point higher than rear). If you find the angle to be at all up hil toward the rear end, then you want/need the lca relocation brackets.

Lca's are a good start, not just for their strength but for age alone you will likely see a benefit. With the short length of the Jegs arm, 2-3 degrees down pinion angle would be a good place to start.

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

better ad relocation brackets to the list. my lower control arm bushings were so worn i could move the axle almost 1/4 inch back and forth. it was a little scary

87_TA

I like the jegster tq arm with my set-up, I would not use relocation brackets with, being such a short arm it always wants to raise the car. I put my relocations back to stock with the jegster.. Its also on the noisy side, I would put some sound deadening material over tunnel where the arm is. 4.10 will help a lot, the 2.66 gear in the T56 makes it hard to launch with, compared to 3.06 or 3.35 in a mustang first gear.. I have gone 1.50 60s with mine, using a fast slip w/4.10, jegster TQ Arm, ET Streets. Second on the shifting as stated above, work on making that faster, I had been out of my car for about a year, my shifting was way slow comparing last years - keep practicing - You arm will be faster than foot if timed right, keep throttle pegged, Pull gear and tap clutch as fast as possible. I could shift with front ever losing elevation, but this year till I get a few more passes I was lagging in fear of missing gear till my timing is back.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

here is a vid of us running a buddies bolt-on LT1 car....

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...ideoID=2221856

some guy actually came up to us wanting to know how we kept the front end up on each shift. lol

87_TA

Here is a vid of my car prior to swapping everything to the 4th gen body, was still running 3.73 at the time 1.54 60ft with those - I would say my shifting was pretty close to that, and shows me how far i have slipped since then...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Gr-x23ijN0

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Personally, i am great at shifting. I am not the best, but the swap to 4.10 gears in my 89 was a real test on the street. There was no way to spray first gear and it not spin WAY too bad.

Dont know how the 4.30s with the big block is going to be.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

probably gonna be way too much gear unless its a pretty mild bigblock. that, or your planning on running 30"+ tires, or only going to run the 1/8.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Going to try to get a 29" tire at least.

Shagwell

Depends on how high he sets it up to turn. We ran a 5.13 with the 33x10.5w's running low 5's. Turned it 10k in first and second though. - Not that he's going that route, just noting.

More often than not the lower gears can be easier to hook on the street. Yes, they muliply torque but they also lower your initial wheel speed. We were running a 4.56 in my buddies stang and it was A LOT easier to drive/hook than the 4.10's have been, but he was running out of rpm in the 1/4. A few changes since then may put us back to a 4.30. Time will tell.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

What your saying is that a 3.23 gear spinning in 1st at a 5500 RPM engine speed is not going to hook as well as a 3.73 since the tire speed is slower with the numerically higher gear right ****?

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

thats why i said "unless your going to run a 30"+ tire. and i didnt figure he was planning a 10k rpm big block or tubbing the car.

my experience on street tires has been with 4.10's and 4.30's my LS1 car spins anywhere thru 1st and 2nd gear, and i could haze the tires rolling into it in 3rd gear. i can pedal it and slowly roll into it after each gear change, but banging gears will result in blowing the tires off terribly. a 3.90 gear has made the car MUCH better and i think it will pick up quite a bit on street tires at the track now. im thinking 2 tenths, possibly. (1/8)
i do agree, the taller gears make it alot easier to modulate the clutch off the line and get a decent 60'. 3.42's and a grabby clutch makes it either bog or light the tires up.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

I couldnt stand the 2.73 gears, i had head and cam LS1 cars whooping my off the line and i had to reel them in by second and then i could leave them in 3rd. Got allot of respect but it still sucked. Especially at the track.

I am just glad to have a rearend that is not going to break like the 10 bolts.

kerplunk318

iTrader: (3)

Wen't back to the track today and was able to pull off a 12.6 at 111. 60 ft was still a little slow at 1.8. This time I powershifted and feathered the throttle off the line. Difference in the suspension is a jegs adjustable torque arm and spohn lc arms with the rod ends. The issue now seems to be 1-2 shift, I spun pretty hard. Im thinking with a set of slicks I should be able to cut a faster 60 ft. and could probably use a set of lca relocation brackets.

87_TA

Good job, you will hook way better with a biasply ET street or QTP.. I like Hoosiers but M/T seem to last much loner for me. You get good street wear unless you like to spin them on the street, that tears them up pretty good.