I just put a new 350 motor in my car. Vortec heads, .420 lift, duration is 212 at 50.Edelbrock 600 carb, long tube headmans with an h-pipe and dual dynomax super turbo mufflers dumpin berfore the axle, 3000 stall converter, 3.73 gears, ac delete, tranny cooler, overdrive switch......what do u guys think it will run????

 

The stall seems pretty high for the cam you're using. I assume you have a Performer intake.

I'd say mid- to low-14's, assuming you have some semblance of traction.

 

i'm gonna step out on a limb and say mid 13's, i have a bone stock one with a 600 eddy, performer intake, and hedmans and a th350 with a 3500 that runs 8.30 in the eighth, but thats with about a 3100-3150 raceweight

 

14.8...... get a holley 650 dp and see mid 13's.

 

I've never seen a carb make a car drop over a second at the track....but I dunno....anyway....my guess in 14's, maybe 13's on the high side.

 

yeah it doesnt actually stall that high..it pulls through the brakes at like 2200-2400 but advertised is 3000..and what would u recommened for the next step in getting some traction like lca brakets or what?
and yes performer intake

 

I would highly recommend a good set of drag radials, like the m/t et street radials, as well as some lca brackets. fyi, we put a set of the m/t's on my buddies turbo buick and it dropped .8 off the et (but we were hard on the converter leaving at 10lbs of boost)--by far the most rewarding mod we have done to the car up to this point.

 

how did u take weight out, i just have a fiberglass hood and took out all that ac crap but idk what else is left to take out? and i hoping your right on the 1/4 times.lol

 

the car is pretty well gutted, manual steering, no HVAC at all, no wipers, but full interior otherwise without carpet, that was on 275/50 drag radials too

 

what about any other suspension mods because i think that it is possible for me to get into the mid 13s?

 

V6 springs all around, lakewood 90/10 struts up front, stock stuff out back. LCA's are boxed with aluminum bushings, but i think that just some poly ended LCA's and maybe some LCA relocation brackets, subframe connectors are a good idea too

 

what do v6 springs do? make it softer on the launch or lower??

 

v6 springs help transfer weight more toward the rear and plant the rear tires...helps with launching....they are same ride height but softer spring rate, so rear will drop down more when on it.

 

it helps get the front end up, the rear doesn't really squat on mine which kinda makes it a freak with the long TA. if you really want to get it hooking, get v6 springs, lakewood 90/10s on the front, summit adjustables for the back, and then a jegs torque arm. this will get it working pretty hard on a tight budget. but before any of that, throw some drag radials on the crate!

 

i know double pumpers make a world of diffance. Edelbrock are not the best race carb.

 

Take it to the track, make some runs, post the results here. Include 60' times (you can post reaction times if you like, but they don't affect ET unless you're doing something weird with the brake and/or throttle).

I'm sticking with my prediction.

 

I'm gonna say mid-high 13's if the car is tuned right.

The cam duration is ok for your motor, but the lift is way too low (you aren't running a roller).

 

um speaking of tuning i tuned it with some of my dads 116 octane race gas and i set the timing at about 36 deg full adv. and the base timing was like 0 or -2..is that normal or should i change the weights in the distributor.??...and it started snowing again here today so itll be a month before i can take it to the track but i will post some times

 

how do you recommend i launch it cuz i kno its gunna spin but im thinkin of some dr's neway until i get some money for suspension??

 

hei? vacuum unhooked?

 

yeah hei with the vaccum unhooked ??

 

did u set timing with vacuum unhooked?

 

yeah thats what i meant.lol

 

My 350HO went 12.83 stock with radials, 3000 stall, Performer intake and 650 cfm speed demon. With the edelbrock carb it never went faster than 14's.

 

why are you using 116 octane?? Are you using a 14:1 compression motor??? In our olds we run 110 octane and that 12.5:1 compression...my camaro I use 91 octane pump gas, works great...you do know that you only need enough octane to keep motor from pinging....anymore than that and it actually slows you down....because the higher octane, the slower the fuel burns.... as far as suspension...get the UMI LCA's and UMI relocation brackets....running a set of slicks in my opion on a 14 or high 13 second car is a waste of money....I run my car in the 12's on street tires, with little to no wheel spin....If you run a 14 and are blowing the tires off of it, it may be suspension is set up wrong, or you need some more practice driving! Nobody get mad, just my thought on it...

 

what suspension and gears where u running with this setup?

 

well first of all i mixed the 116 octance gas with the 87 octane that was left from last august when i had the 305 tpi in it..and i bought it off my dad for 5 dollars a gallon cuz he buys drums of it for our race cars so it was also really cheap... and it ran like **** and pinged like crazy with that old gas so i mixed what was left in the tank.... and if u have read the title on the post i havent run the car yeat thats why i am asking.haha and im sure i kno how to launch it cuz we drag race pontiacs and they are a bitch to hook up becuase of the enormous amounts of torque so we battle with these problems evryweekend i was just wondering where to start w this type of chasis

 

I dont care if they paid you to put that race fuel in there, get that junk outta there, it's un needed and going to cause issues over running standard 91 octane if this is indeed one of the crate 350's. We've got one in my uncles 68 camaro, it runs 13.5's with a 3.50 but only weighs 3000lbs since there's not much to them, so your car i'll guess high 13's low 14's. You put some bias ply slicks on there, you can go well into the 9's on a stock suspension...nothing done but tires...you want to start making it repeat timeslips running those times, then you'll have to addess suspension pieces to tighten the car up.

pontiacs are do make great low end, but their biggest problem is the pontiac platform they're bolted into, factory leaves little room for putting any sort of tire in the rear. Friend of mine's 67 GTO can only fit a 27x11.5 hoosier QTP, any talled and it rubs, hence when he bought the 66 tempest for a track only "twin sister" car he cut the back apart to get a real tire back there. but with these 3rd gens....if your not bracket racing, dont buy into all the hype with all the after market upgrades, they're not needed...just get a set of bias ply's and have fun.

 

i will say that josh is mostly right, but there is alot of good legitimate theory behind a set of lower control arm relocation brackets and a set of subframe connectors. i'd do those thing in conjunction to the bias ply's.

 

i'd do the subframe connectors at least, the control arms if you have the money

 

I wasn't saying you didn't know how to drive....but I run a 1.8x+ 60 foot time, in a 12 second car, on street tires....NO WHEEL SPIN....slicks are not needed YET....The best way to go about this is to get your suspension set up, and hone in on your driving skills FIRST....get that car to launch on street tires and Then when you do put slicks on....you already know the car will launch....and your not covering up any hidden suspension or chassis issue with the slicks...that just my opinion....

get subframe connections, LCA w/poly bushings, stuff like that..... good luck to you...

 

Bone stock suspension, 3.73 gears with 26" tall BFG Radials TA tires.

 

I agree with dialing a car in to run on radials, however dumping a ton of money into suspension doesn't make sense to me when drag radials are relatively cheap.

Also, my car still didn't hook up great on the street, even though it ran 12's at the track. Drag radials are nice to have on the street too.

 

I agree to run drag radials on yours....12's is very tricky to get hooked up on street tires....but I was saying a 14 second car there should be no need for them...that money could be better spent somewhere else....totally agree with you on the street though.....very little traction.....I would do the suspension first....then get drag radials...no the other way around...but that's just me personally....every one has different ideas....I run street tires on the street too because I'm not into drag racing as much, I'm more into road course and auto X, so I have very little use for drag radials....don't get me wrong though....I run very sticky tires...but made more for cornering than draggin'.......

 

how is it goin to cause problems itll just mess with my timing s little so ill just readjust it???and back to pontiacs you dont always need huge tires(but my dads 67 firebird is tubbed) but my dad runs 29.5x10.5 on his 69 judge with no clearnace problems and that thing runs 10.0's with 1.32 60ft..you just gotta know how to use your chasis

 

Faster to link and let Pat's article explain it:
How high octane can hurt you too

 

Um ok well took it to the track yesterday and it ran the best the ninth pass with a 13.16 at 104.69mph with a 1.92 60ft...it ran two 13.17's and a 13.19,13.20,13.23,13.24..etc...my 60fts ranged everywhere from 1.90 to 1.96....i have to drive it outta the hole cuz the carb will bog if i dont..im buying a dbl pumper soon...so im hopin for 12's with a dbl pumper and better conditions at the track cuz everyone there was about half a tenth slow anyway....but i think i beat all ur predictions.hahaha

 

What were you running for tires?

 

m/t et street radials..255/50/16..and thats not what mad it bog the carbs is just to small for the motor and the idel circuit is messed up and i cant figure it out...cuz on a time trail after i was done racing in my 2 classes i did a pass to see what it would do if i just punched it outta the hole and it just sat there and spun like crazy so i got outta it and featherd it and it went like a 13.70.hahaha