Fast being 10 or high 9's.

My car just isn't that fun on the road with an auto. The verter soaks up the low end tq that I enjoy on the street.

I know they are a lot harder on parts and I would probably have to upgrade my stock 9" third member.

I built the car to be fun, not a consistent drag car really.

 

subscribe..

good luck, i've tried these types of threads but not much action.. there was a guy going 11.0 on a 10bolt.. other than that, mid 11's and up..

 

87 TA's car would go 10's if he had a 9inch rear to fully launch that thing. Especially if he sprayed it

I am planning on doing the T56 swap and a turbo motor this winter/spring so i should be in the 10's atleast and 9's i HOPE if i can drive and i turn the boost up


You get the McLeod street twin clutch setup which will hold up to 1000-1200 hp. Thats what i'm gonna run if i get the T56

 

I've read on a few forums that the t56 breaks in the 10s. I believe the input shaft is what goes. On the street it would probably last.

Yea, theres a lot more to worry about with a stick. Rpms, amount of clutch release, preloading. From what I've heard, you can count on losing half a second with a stick. Hitting the 9's would surely feel good to say, but even if it doesnt, its going to FEEL faster.

I was thinking about the tko 600.

 

Finding a strong enough transmission has been our main problem.

 

T56 stock may break int he 10's but you can get the upgraded internals/shafts which will handle some power

there are a few guys in the 9's n/a with 6 speeds i believe, and many more i know of in the 9's with forced induction/nitrous

Alot of C5 guys with T56's

Keep the car light, dont launch all that hard and make up for it with insane top end power pull like from a turbo Or progressive nitrous so you dont abuse the trans that much off launch

 

I don't make much boost until 4000 rpms. By the time you upgrade a used t56 though, how much do you have in it vs the 2100 bucks or so for a tko?

I would love to be able to use a t56!

 

A guy I know down here is running a manually shifted Libery in a promod '68 camaro that runs bottom 4's in the 1/8(I've personally seen 4.12, I know he's been faster).

ability vs $ you can't beat a TKO. Personally I wouldn't run a TKO unless it's a Pro-Motion face-plated or a Liberty dog-ring. The stock type ones shift to notchy and won't shift clutchless at all. - You can get the "tactical nukes" dog-ring TKO from liberty for just uner $3k.

Techincally speaking you can go faster with a manual trans. They eat less hp. Actually going faster requires a lot of set-up and a good driver.


I went high 11's on my T5's. I will go 10's(should be able to bump some 9's) with a liberty TKO someday when I get time to work on the 'vert again.

 

Been 11.0 as mentioned here and by orr89, still rockin the 10 bolt after all these years, car went 10.8s with auto and same combo, 10.09 on spray.
Since going to 6speed slipping the clutch out to save rear, if I ever get a 12 bolt and hope to this summer, it should have no problems going same et I don't think. Just rebuilt trans also, 3rd syncro went out, just replaced syncros, and added bronze shift pads and 3-4 steel fork.
If I get the rear will spray it again to, should get deep 10s again I think.
So far have 60 ft'ed best of 1.501 slipping clutch, should get her back in 1.4's
with a good rear. If orr finishes his plans, he will be deep 10s also or better.

 

yup, just got me a T56 as well. Hope to be bottom 10's atleast

 

Ditto that! I have a 12.89 under my belt with a 90 firebird and a 400 sbc that left T5 parts all over the place!

I think I agree with those above who are in the TKO camp (500 or 600) and will go that way next time for the stick angle.

Coming soon... My T5 WC with the G-force internals will be punished until failure! I see above that the only other guy on the site with one is still draggin' his so maybe mine will hold up as well!!

 

why not just go with a built T56? they can hold 1000hp

 

I hope I can break into the 11's with my combo on the T56 and a Centerforce DF clutch but who knows. I broke my leg earlier this year so I wasn't able to run it...

 

I think I would go with a t56. It would also allow me to use my driveshaft. How much could I expect to put into the trans at the bare minimum to handle a good launch (1.4, 1.3 60ft) and low 10's?

Orr, I'm having issues with my automatic, if I have to put any money into it to fix it, I'm going to get rid of it and swap in a stick.

Here's the thread if you could check it out, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...converter.html

 

I mean for those ppl using G-force T5's i wouldnt waste the money on that since the case is weak on T5's. use T56's with a rebuild kit. I found a nice rebuild kit for up to 700lb ft torque for 630 bucks. 1000 installed if you ship the trans to them

http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...body/t56parts/

 

I was going T56, but they're just so damb heavy. Once I decided to go turbo instead of NA, I no longer needed to run a very low rear gear, thus don't need the extra OD. - My vert will be a liberty dog-ring TKO600.

 

T56 heavy? its only 120 lbs or so... that aint too bad. How light is the TKO??

 

Still less than a th350. Wonder what the rotating weight difference is between tko and t56?

I thought the weak part of the t56 was the mainshaft? That kit doesnt include it, but the level 3 does.

Pretty good price for 700 ft/lbs! Their warranty states they only cover the labor, not parts.

 

I thought a t56 was closer to 200 complete.. My flywheel alone weighs 36lbs.. Downfall of having a 2pc rear seal engine, it was a pricy swap for me..
$400 for flywheel, I think $500+ for spec3 clutch.. If I were to do it again I would have gone TKO, one main reason being not having a reverse pressure plate that cost a million, and the weight of a t56.. From what I hear T56 eat a good amount of hp.. And also being I never really picked up any MPH from the swap, car runs the same, just some loss on the 60ft on behalf of me saving the rear.
Orr, just a FYI, you have to remove the booster to get the master cyl in, major pita! But the sealed system is kinda nice though..

 

The t56 is closer to 200 than 120. IIRC the TKO is just under 100. And yes, extra gears mean more rotational weight as well.

My clutch and associated system will be good either way. The liberty TKO is right around $3k and is designed for clutchless shifts. To buy a t56 and build it to take that I'd have much more in it.

 

i'm talking just about the trans part, not complete. With the clutch/flywheel it will be much much heavier. but the trans with bellhousing only is like 130lbs or so. SHipping weight on the box said 122 for the trans without housing.

how much does the 700r4 or a TH350 weigh?

 

I didn't have to remove the brake booster to install the master cylinder on my car which was an auto. All of the work was done from the inside. If i remember correctly my TKO was about 115 and the T56 130ish. Definitely not 200lbs, because i know my skinny *** can't lift that much under a car and both the TKO/T56 i can bench into the car.

Both were expensive to swap into my car, came out about equal though. The TKO was nice because it was a little easier to install and could hold more power plus the lighter weight/rotational mass. Paid about the same for it used as i did for a T56. Clutch setups are about the same, and depending on if the motor is a 1pc or 2pc RMS will determine how expensive the flywheel is.

Back to the original thread question though...my car ran 116mph in the 1/4, i could never get off the line quick enough though...

 

tremec tko-600 is the right tranny for our cars when going manual with power

 

I'll be using tick performance level 2 T56 i think. Not sure if i want to upgrade to the level 3 with viper shafts as thats another 900 bucks! I think level two will be enough for me since its good up to 700whp/tq. I'll be around 700whp but probly 600's tq

 

So the stock mainshafts are good for 700 wheel?

 

Thats what it says on their website. They say viper shafts are needed for over 700whp/tq. They void the waranty on level two for anyone over 700whp

 

But the warranty is only for labor, not for parts. So if a part breaks and it was installed correctly, by them, no help. Thats how I take it. I don't know much about transmissions, but the level 2 kit only seems to come with stuff to handle rougher shifting, I don't see how any of that stuff is going to make the trans stronger when dumping the clutch at 4000 rpms off the line. Thats where I've seen mainshafts break.

 

After doing some more reading, this site also says the shafts are good for 750 hp. Its worn synchros and shift forks that cause the gears to mesh incorrectly and pop out of gear, which in turn apparently can break the mainshaft. When everything works together like it should, the shafts can handle the power. Something like that anyway.

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...6_maximus.html

Maybe that tick kit would be ok then, but I think I would use a slightly slippy clutch.

 

Thats my situation. I was hoping to run the mcleod street twin setup which is very grabby. level two stuff is definately there to help shifting on motors with alot of power. some of those parts do help strength alright, as transfering power gear to gear needs some good parts.

But another 900 for the viper shafts, i'm not sure i want to go with that

 

Anyone else hear about the "Magnum T56" that Tremec is releasing? Rated for 700ftlbs, has a bunch of different little upgrades, as well as supposedly a smaller case width. - There's a small thing about it in this past months Hot Rod. Access to an upgraded stocker straight from the factory is kinda nice.

For what I'm planning, I'll still stick with a TKO though. I want dog-ring engaugement w/o having to win the lotto, what is the clutch for anyway in a fast car? Staging and shut-down is all I know.

 

Well, after all these years of being around cars, I still don't know what powershifting is. Is that when you don't use the clutch to shift? That sends shivers down my spine. I've only ever done it in a military truck and matched the rpms. It's fun to experiment with things that aren't yours.

We all know that shock is a part's worst enemy, and having a forgiving clutch lessens the impact on the whole drivetrain. I don't know how much the 60ft would suffer, but I would sacrifice a little to know that my parts should stay where they are.

 

i just hope to compromise on alittle less grabbing of a clutch and clutch life. I dont want one burning up all the time since its slipping to much under the power loads

 

How do you pick the right one? Considering vehicle weight and power. Are there any adjustments for pressure?

Tick performance seems to get real good reviews at ls1tech, and their cars are a good bit heavier. Thanks Orr, I learned some good stuff and you answered my question well. Now I need to come across a good deal on a used t56.

 

i'm new to the manual thing so i'm not sure what clutches work best for what power levels. All i know is McLeods street twin setup is good to 1000hp and is a clutch with good bite. But i fear it may be hard on the trans/rear end so you have to make sure all thats behind the clutch is strong

 

My Hays' is a 3-finger Borg & Beck, 3200# roller assist. I can adjust the pressure by changing the springs. My dad was told years ago by Ram that you lighten the springs until you burn a disc in one pass, you then go back 200#'s and let it ride. Technology has changed since then, but that "tune" has worked well for me.

I side-step the clutch at 5k+, and don't lift or clutch till I go to shut-down. I never broke a T5 in 1st or during a shift, but I scattered many under power in 3rd. If you can smoothly shift w/o the clutch you're less likely to shock the trans vs dumping the clutch between gears because it stays loaded. - My car was a tank too(4001#'s w/o me in it).

 

I made a post over at ls1tech questioning the tick performance stuff.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/manual...-question.html

Hopefully I can get a thumbs up from someone there that doesn't represent Tick Performance.

I only get to the track once or twice a month. I'm not too concerned about conistency or the best et possible, I just want to be able to launch hard. The car is a bear on the road and dangerous to smash the throttle, I'm thinking with a stick I'll be able to hit the throttle more and keep my speeds down.

He recommended a Spec level 3 clutch. Good for 700 ft/lbs. Highest level for a "street" clutch, so it should slip a little.

 

this may help you out with your t56 idea,Taner has the fastest 6spd Lt1 and has done virtually everything to get them to work with him.there are a few other mods that will help the lifespan. Taner is a super cool guy and will help you out as much as possible,he is a very busy guy but he will get back to you

this is after a major tranny repair
http://videos.camaroz28.com/recentvi...c7016f0c46.htm
very bad trans explosion,parts everywhere it looked like a pair of t-tops hit the ground

http://videos.camaroz28.com/recentvi...d6018464ad.htm

here is a discussion w/pics on what other mods to do to the t56 to "help" survival but when it all comes down to it,a t56 will not last with power and abuse such as this
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/manual...h-hp-cars.html

i hope this helps you guys out especially when the $ factor is introduced you will end up having a bunch of $ in a time-bomb many are having great fun with 6spds but in the end the t-400 or P/G is the more reliable solution.

 

he's faster than i intend to go with my car so i shouldnt have a problem keeping the trans together with a good set of internal parts

 

I use a spec 3 in mine, pros are that it has a very light clutch feel - much lighter than friends Ram, it holds very hard.
Cons are that you will hate life during break-in, I had undrivable chatter, did some research on LS1 tech and they said ignore the 500 mile break in and dump the clutch a few times - took to the track after 30 miles, launched at 6000 and was a great ride home.. No bs, that was the trick.
It likes to grab alot and takes a caregul foot, especially in the rain..But is comfortable, smooth now and holds very tight..

 

i am a regular customer a Tick Performance. They are really good and honest people. I would greatly reccomend them to anyone. They always do a great job with my iroc-z, which they are freshening up my 383 stroker right now, you can see my car on the home page. I am not running those quick of times yet, but i have a G-Force T-5 and have not found a way to break it. In the long run i wish i would have went with a T-56, but i love my G-Force T-5.

 

Thanks, thats exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the tip too. 500 miles would take all year with my car. Got some great info in this thread! I guess its the Tick level 2 and spec 3 for me. Who wants to buy a th350?

 

possibly save some money that way over mcLeods setup... i'll have to look into that