If you have a battery kill switch chances are you have relocated your battery. I am trying to figure out hat switch I need and how to safely and correctly run my alternator charging lead without causing any damage.
How did you do it?




I first ran a basic two post 20 amp continuous 125 amp surge switch http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku and hooked the alternator charging wire to the battery side of the switch. Thinking this may not be sufficient and I will burn out the switch I wanted to upgrade to the 4 post 300 amp continuous 2000 amp surge switch with alternator disconnect http://store.summitracing.com/partde...-74102&FROM=MG.

I called Moroso after reading the instructions and they say this still isn't sufficient and the feedback of the alternator may fry the kill switch (apparently the alt disconnect post is only rated to 20 amps). WTF?
They say I need this Painless relay http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku and that will solve it.


My questions:

Can I just use the higher rated 4 post kill switch and take the Painless recommendation as a sales call?

Or, Can I use the painless relay and keep the basic 20 amp switch?

 

i am running the moroso switch. the alternator wire goes to the battery side. All the power wires in my vehicle are on the opposite side of the switch. Flip the switch and everything electrical dies including my motor. Not too hard to do, I probably have pics in a past thread somewhere.

 

Thats what I wanted to do and thought it would be cut and dry, however, I was told differently by Moroso.

What are you doing with the two smaller studs on the switch? The instructions say to jump these somehow http://static.summitracing.com/globa...74102_inst.pdf.

I would probably run the alt charging lead directly to the battery in that instance unless I could not get the feed wire into the box and make it seal.

 

I Hope this helps you - this is what I did:

http://popularhotrodding.automotive....hotos11-0.html

 

you need to re-read what I wrote. The alternator wire goes on the battery terminal. The rest is just for power accessories which run across the switch.

 

1983Z28...that's the same exact switch and directions I was looking at but cannot figure out how to wire it and not blow the switch.



xpndbl3....bear with me, I've beat this to death and am probably thinking way too hard.
So you have just the battery to switch cable on one bigger post along with the alternator charging lead on that same post, battery cable to starter on the other post, and the two smaller posts are not used?

I'm assuming these two smaller posts are then unused? According to Moroso the alternator feedback could still blow this 300/2000 amp switch

 

I don't have 4 posts. Mine has 2 total.

alternator to + battery
battery to switch
switch to power circuits in the car
+ battery to starter solenoid
starter solenoid to starter

the switch doesn't supply the power to the starter, a ford style starter solenoid does, as in one of the tech articles. The switch also does not have the alternator running through it either, it goes directly to the battery.

 

Ok, I see how yours is set up now. I assumed you were talking about the 4 post Moroso switch I listed when you said you were running the Moroso switch.

I've heard that can be bad for the battery and/or alternator but I've done so much damn research on this my head hurts.

http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/...y_relocate.htm This was a good one that dealt with my same issue.

BTW...how many amps is your switch rated for?