izcain

Thanks alot!

Car has been thru many stages but never done! (as is everyones on here im sure!)


Interior is the standard race car with some twists

Kirkey pro street seats, Autometer cobalt's, and the 8 point of course!








Sorry about the blurred pics it's all I could get my camera to take since my nice camera broke


Under the hood is nothing super pretty just a workhorse 383 setup for a lot of spray

izcain

Got a set of 15X10 Street lites and 15X3.5 in the garage just waitin to mount them this spring for this coming season. But like I said some people dont like the stance and others do. I am thinking about going to a full slick this season instead of the et streets.

86iroc2try

i personally like the jacked up rear, but i agree that tucking them might look cool.
very nice car...im lovin it!

Shagwell

The problem with the jacked up rear is how much it kills weight transfer. My dad has always said, stick a 10' pole in your belly button and grab it at arms length; would you rather pick it up off the ground or off the top of a table?


...and as promised - still need to a build a front gfx but otherwise I'm fairly happy with the stance(actually, it's now 1/2" lower in the front than these pics). It will probably be getting a bird nose when the blower motor goes in.

Shagwell

a shot of the motor in our old '68 'maro(R.I.P.). Never run an anti-roll bar in a ladder bar car, it only masks the true problem. - lesson learned the hard way at around 400' @ 130mph...

You guys should all recognize the struts and spindles

86iroc2try

yea...i used to run airbags to jack mine up on the street but then lowered it down for transfer at the track. when i switched to the thirdgen platform i just run the stock stance with bigs n littles. lol

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

car looks tuff, good analogy on the skyjackers car

Shagwell

thanks. Everyone keeps telling me how it sounds killer, but it isn't making any power yet. We hurt bearings in the new motor Fri eve. Going back to old-school methods, loosening it up a bunch and gonna run 50w or 70w depending on the oil pressure. We never used-to have any bearing problems so we'll go back to what we used-to do.

...oh and a couple shots of what not to do...

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

man that sucks, any idea how it hurt itself? i hope my motor doesn't do that when i get it all together

Big, White & Sl

Ouch!!!!!

Shagwell

Had a couple things come in to play on that motor. We were running slightly under .002 bearing tolerance and a mix of 30w and 40w oil and it hurt some bearings(obvioulsy we didn't know this till after the fact). The main failure was a rod bolt/cap. One bolt pulled out and the cap broke at around 7500 r's.
We're now going back to .003 ish on the bearing tolerances and running 50w or 70w depending on what viscosity we need to get the oil perssure where we want it.

Several engine builders swore we were loosing power due to the loose tolerences and thick oil, but we never hurt bearings before. I'll take the power loss of pulling the pump vs changing the bearings every weekend and/or hurting parts.

The real kicker is that it tapped a head. It's fixable, but still sucks. They're the old "winter's snow-flake" GM aluminum d-ports(last design ZL1 heads). Supposedly worth a bunch of money since they're not ported.


I was really suprised how much of the block it took out being hard-blocked to the freeze plugs.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

insane man, i hate to see that kinda damage though, puts a hurtin' on the budget i'm sure.

Shagwell

The 468 that's in the car should be good for high 5's in the 1/8 on motor, then I'll hit it with 200+ off the t-brake to baseline the suspension for the blower motor.

I need to sell this 468, as well as some other motors so that I can finish the blower combination. I've got a BBC powered full tube notchback stang that needs to go away once I finish "cleaning it up" as well. - "I've learned that a budget is a great place to start, then you suck it up and move on. "


I'm getting way off topic - more pics! I know there's more strip or street/strip cars on here....

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

i'll post a progress picture of my junk when i get some time...its a beauty with all that new sheet metal, might be lighter now that it doesn't have 5 feet of bondo sculpted into quarters

Stock-3864

iTrader: (1)

Here's a link to my website. It seems if I try to post a pic from there, it just shows the Angelfire logo instead of my pic.

http://www.angelfire.com/oh3/camaro

mod313

Nice to see another stocker on here.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

how's that t5 holding up?

86iroc2try

very nice...i hope to run a 5speed stocker in a couple of years. you dont see many and they're fun!!
I'm really mad I bought a t-top car since I wanted to build a stocker sooner. oh well....nice car!

MaNiAk86

iTrader: (2)

thats a helluva launch for only 249hp.....

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Stockers are just baaaaaad azz!!! BUT, you could build a few of my cars to achieve what they need to for class ET's...fricken INSANE!! i ran a father/son team at one of the tracks this year-brakcet racing-and they built the car for class racing..H class i think they said, but i went to congratulate him for winning our round and got to talking, he must have got the vibe i was'nt going to build a stocker anytime soon and allowed me to pick his brain about what all it takes to actually build and run a car in these classes...i dont know if i could afford it, and i know i definately dont have all the time needed to get as in depth as they do. Example...they went through 12 sets of piston rings, picking and chosing the least resistant rings to install on the pistons LOL!! tranny was an auto and built with the lightest light weight parts that can be had, $5000 just in the tranny so it was super light and had the least internal rotating resistance as possible. engine got rebuilt every month since it was built with basically a square lobed cam shaft, etc...and alot of other things he enlightened me about that just blew my mind.

So my hats off to all of these guys that run and try to compete within a set of strict rules, finding hp in the craziest ways possible. Had another race against a stocker...i pulled up and seen all his stickers and such and figured he was going to be fast, back then i was dialed 11.01 and he was like a 11.3? big whoop right......after that round i went to hsi trailer to shake his hand and say good run ( i did win that one LOL) but come to find out...305cid okay, my 388 was'nt so neat after that. I can only imagine how fast a sbc could be if built along side a stock class racer with unlimited budget and rules.

Stock-3864

iTrader: (1)

The T-5 has held up for 2 years, but I don't get to race it much. My Camaro is just a Pure Stocker with 4.56 gears.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

buddy of mine runs nmra pure street.
'95 cobra 3300lbs stock type suspension
309cid, trick flow/performer rpm heads, and dual plane intake with a carb. cam has less than .500 lift on a hydro roller.
5 speed manual...
26x10x15 et drags
2.5" exhaust to rear axle


= 10.30's @ 130+

lol

86iroc2try

i pretty much have 2 favorite classes..stock eliminator in NHRA, and well, any NMCA class!! haha Mean Street is my favorite, just because im an all motor kinda guy.

AlkyIROC

I know a local husband a wife team who have late 60's, early 70's Nova's. He has a Lenco in his car and it's allowed in a stocker. I'm always picking his brain on what he's done to the cars since they can both run well under their indexes. He's mentioned about finding camel hump heads. If anyone has touched them at all, he can't use them so he's purchased may heads just to find a pair that flow the best. Not all castings with the same casting number flow the same.

I also chat with a local SuperStock racer. 87 Calais in GT/CA that can run into the 9's at sea level.

The ultimate is a local that runs in Comp Eliminator. Runs a blown alcohol, small CID SB2.2 engine in an altered that runs in the 6's at over 200 mph.

As for the square lobed cam, with a maximum lift of .430" or OEM, whichever is greater, they're sure hard on valve springs with such a low lift.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

The cam's are brutal, but as often as these guys tear down-more than us anyways sicne it just goes with the territory extracting every last once of umph they can get all the time-i dont think they give it a second thought.

I do know, as many, one of the tricks used, be it illegal...but i guess alot of things are okay until your caught right? LOL. But the spec heads have holes drilled in the front of the head so the tech guys can use a pre made template, and plug it into these holes in front of the head and make sure the head's have'nt been altered based on the position and anlge of the jig. only problem is many of the stock guys are in bed with their machine shops since they're VIP customer so to speak, so they angle mill the heads to the max, lay back the chambers/runners to the max, weld in the template holes on the fronts of the heads, then jig them back up in the mill and mill it back, then drill drill holes in the "proper" spacing sequence/angle so when the tech's stick the guage in there they're none the wiser.

I do remember the stocker guy i talked to that went through 12 sets of rings to find the right combination said they use a fish scale to pull each ring through the bore and they're looking for less than 1lb of drag or something crazy like that once it's fitted. transmissions are machined out internally to accept roller bearings for certain aspects....much like if we hogged our blocks out to install roller cam bearings. just all sorts of craziness and money is not much of an object...the ole, gotta pay to play mentlaity since it's heads up.

Bracket racing is'nt even a sport that you can compete in with just any ole car anymore. Evolution i guess, but man i sure feel bad for anybody that's trying to be an up and commer with a limited budget since the way i figure to be truely competative in a no box class/pro class bracket racing takes a minimum of $50K invested in the car, and many of the top guys i know have more than that vested that consistantly do well no matter what track they're running at.

Shagwell

....all of this just reminds me why I got away from NHRA/IHRA crap....

HEADS UP OUTLAW DRAG RACING! - run what you brung, and hope you brung enough!

IHI

iTrader: (1)

The day i can afford to dump $80,000 in an engine alone will be the day i'm a happy man..i think LMFAO!!!!

Toyota h8r

what im planning to build my 92 for.....NOT DRAG RACING! LOL


im tired of getting harassed by hondas and tuners saying 3rd gen are drag only cars

jacque_strap

Got any info on that pic? I would like to see the setup in detail.

Ca[maro]88

iTrader: (2)

hey izcain, im installing new wheels, 15X8.5 with only a 3.5 inch backspacing. i wanted to run a 275/60 tire on it. what all did you have to modify to get your back wheel trim from hittin your tire? mine sticks out about 1/4-3/8".

Ca[maro]88

iTrader: (2)

These are the wheels i'm using, im obviously getting new tires though.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

u need to run 5.5bs with that kind of width for a rim.

Ca[maro]88

iTrader: (2)

i know i should use a 5.5bs but i got a 3.5 and its kinda hard to find a pair of good 8.5" aluminum slotted mags. especially with a 5.5bs. so my question is, what exactly do i need to do to make sure they dont rub the fender lip.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

buy the proper rims, there is nothing else to do unless you want to jack the rear WAY up. There's always narrowing the rear as well, all of which will cost more than buying the proper rims.

Toyota h8r

sorry, i dont have details on that car. I found it talking and searching about making my car a cone killer lol.

SebasIroc

iTrader: (1)

here is mine...nothing fancy....357, 700r4, 4.10 gear....good fun...this year new forged 357 shortblock with solid roller cam, should be more fun


running constant 12.3@110...new time this summer

Seb

Ca[maro]88

iTrader: (2)

well xpndbl3 the day you find FREE rims, a set of 4, tell me. i didnt BUY the rims. think id BUY rims without knowing if they'd fit? no. so sorry for trying to see if there was ANYTHING i could do to get them to fit. really like to take these rims and stick them up your a$$

ross

Sparks88 If you want to keep your wheels you can swap out the rear for a fourth gen as it is narrower than the third gen rear not sure on the exact amount good luck.

Shagwell

sarcasm right?


Sparks - if you haven't figured it out yet, free parts are often far from it. xpndbl3 is just trying to explain to you that the only way they will fit w/o hitting is if you jack the back of the car way up to sit over top of them. In doing so you kill the geometry of the rear suspension and make it nearly impossible to get enough weight transfer to get the car to hook well. - you would be ahead to sell them and use the money to buy some that fit.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

while xpndbl3's response was brash and tactless, i do tend to agree with him. it's not gonna be easy to get those wheels on the car without sacrificing the ability to stick the car to the ground, which is so important in racing, of any type. or, the expense of narrowing the rear, which in that case, you need to not only have someone with experience do the work, but also need to have the axles cut and resplined.

what i would do is take the slots that you have, put a bunch of elbow grease into them to shine them up, and chuck 'em up on eBay...people with older hotrods that those wheels DO fit desire them, especially the old gasser guys. with the money you spend there, grab a 15x8 with a 4.5" backspacing if you want to do no work to get a set of wheels on the car without the tire sticking out of the well. you seem like you're willing to do a little work so if you wanted the best stance of all (IMHO) grab a 15x10 with a 6.5" backspacing, give the wheel well some "Hammer-time" and cut the bump stops out and have yourself a great looking car that looks like you actually took the time to pay attention to the details.

i hope i come across a little less brash than steve...but we all know how much a cotton-headed ninny-muggins he can be (and most all the other midwest street racers for that matter lol!)

you've got it backwards bro, the fourthgens are ~2in wider than a stock thirdgen rear.
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haha, looks like shagwell beat me to it, lol! but we're all in the same mindset...

1280_N_dump

This is the car that I just bought. I will be picking it up in Feb and trying to get it ready by Apr 1 for the season. The guy I got it from was running a 632 in it for IHRA Top sportsman. I am putting a 496 in it to bracket race.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

Nice looking sled there !!

Ca[maro]88

iTrader: (2)

mw66nova, thank you. thats all i wanted to hear. somebody tell me without bein b*tchy bout it. i actually have 8 mag slotted wheels. hopin they go for like 50 a piece on ebay i could get around 400 bucks or so. i wanna get the BIGGEST set of wheels and tires on the back of this car without having to modify anything. how big can i go? i can def do some hammerin on that inner fender, but i dont wanna spend ANY more money than i have to. would 10 inch wheels fit on this?? how big tires can i get on it? remember this is just a daily driver... for now.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I'm only an hour east if you want to try

Most things in life that are free are free for a reason. Sell them and buy the proper thing, sorry if it sounds brash that someone tells you that there is NO WAY they will work. I'd rather be thought a fool, than open my mouth and remove all the doubt. You asked advice I answered it. I don't need to candy coat that there is no way they will work. Maybe it's the fact that you didn't want to hear that they plain won't fit, but I deserve an apology.

oh ya and for the advice I gave you.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

You still have a lane whenever you want it. I can show you why chicago has the largest racing community in the nation.

mod313

Weld Prostar 15 x 10 w/ 5.5 b.s. will fit perfectly. I run those with 9 x 30 radial slicks with no issues. If you are going to run bias ply slicks, 10.5 x 28's are good choice. If you do run a tire that size and intend on street use gently roll up the upper area of the lip rather than cut them. Lightly tap with a coated hammer will do this with little or no paint damage.

Ca[maro]88

iTrader: (2)

i knew they WOULDNT fit, i asked how i could MAKE them fit.

202 McKinley st. Speer IL 61479

if you wanna race, your gonna waste your fuel cause their aint a doubt in my mind your gonna win. i have 200 bucks in my car and that was for a new gauge cluster, a new radiator and an air cleaner. i dont have thousands of dollars to put in my engine and i dont have more than 50 bucks in my pocket. thats why when a set of free wheels (that came from my grandpa) come along i see if they can fit cause its all i got right now. every dollar i make i intend on puttin in my car, but it takes time and since ive only had it since december i aint had much time to make money.
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and mod 313 its more of a street car, any kind of tire you would suggest that actually had tread on it lol. and im not to wild about the weld prostars on cars that are for only street. but thanks! and will those fit without cuttin out the bumpstops and hittin my inner fender?

mod313

You just need to check the sizes of the tires you'd like to run. 295/60R15 were pretty close to the 10.5 x 28's if memory serves correctly. And yes I still have the bump stops on it.

Ca[maro]88

iTrader: (2)

205/60's will fit on a 10 inch rim?

sorry im REALLY new to the whole tire sizes compared to wheel sizes. im not a beginner but im not a proffessional. im gettin smarter everyday though!

thanks for all the help Mod313.





def not thanking that other a$$hole.

mod313

Saw that mistype after it posted and this server is being very slow. 295 was the intended size.