skinny z

What do run at the track and what's your burnout procedure?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

roll thru the box, throw it in first gear. stop and light them up. quick punch the throttle to get them spinning then back off a tad. keep rpms up in the 5000 rpm range then after about 3-4 seconds usually i have some smoke showing then i let off the brake and floor it thru the staging lane spinning tire for about 10-15 ft then shut it down. its now ready to go

car loves to kick out to the side tho so sometimes i have to cut the burnout shorter than i like and force a longer moving burnout to get heat in the tires

these are ET streets and i run 1.5x 60 foots with a decent launch. 11.50's 1/4

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

MT E/T's....Start off in second bring the RPM's to about 5k then shift into high gear amd once i hit about 4500 I let go of the line lock, start to roll out good and lift. If I do everything right there is usually very little smoke, except for the first one of the night, I will hold it a little longer.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

roll into burnout box, spin tires over to get wet, roll out of water till i'm on dry pavement. brake to the floor, flip linelock, stab throttle in first gear, bang second and third(high) quickly and hold rpm's to 5k. as soon as i see a small puff (normally about 5 seconds after i've started the burnout), i release the linelock and roll out till the motor bogs down. i'm running a 29x9 hoosier

AlkyIROC

You're going to get a lot of different procedures because it really depends on the car setup. Standard and automatic procedures are a little different. Slicks and street tires are a little different.

As for me, I roll into the waterbox until the worker tells me to stop. I'm sitting at the forward edge of the water box. Foot's on the brake, powerglide transmission is in high gear. As soon as I'm given the signal to start my burnout, I push the line lock button, let go of the brake and hit the throttle. I have a burnout rev limiter set to 6000 rpm. After a couple of seconds, I let go of the line lock and roll out of the water box.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/C...out_172588.htm

I wish my camera guy was ready at the start of the burnout. I start the burnout a fraction of a second before this footage starts. I spin the tires in high gear because I want wheel speed to build heat in the slicks.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i pull in the water, blip throttle to spin them over once or twice to get them wet and pull out of the water. push in the brake hit the line lock. line lock switch also activates my burnout rev-limiter. put it in first and mat it.... goes up on the limiter at 5500, and i shift to 2nd and 3rd. once its in 3rd i roll off the throttle and turn off the line lock. roll foward to the staging beams.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Glad to see so many are using high gear to roll out

I pull into the water box in first gear, stop, blip the throttle enough to get entire circumfrance wet and pull forward on my own, and pay no attention to any water box idiot at any track and stop again just clear of the water box

pull shifter into second gear, hit line lock button on top of shifter, pump brakes a few times to set it, then wait for signal

stand on it quickly to break them loose, pull 3rd almost as soon as she starts to spin them over, wait for first smoke and pull out

as i'm rolling forward with the momentum from burnout, i immediately shift into neutral and clean it out a few times

bump into pre stage, wait for opponent to light his PS bulbs

then take tiny tiny brake pedal pumps into the beams until the stage lights juuuuust flicker enough to stay on and hit my brakes (helps big time to have idle set around 15-1800rpm while in 1st gear, makes staging tightly very very easy), push button on steering wheel that activates line lock AND transbrake (a must have way to have them wired together IMO) and wait unitl my top bulb lights, mat it, let go at first flick of last amber, win round, show up for the next, repeat until i get my munies LOL!!

AlkyIROC

Not sure about a 700R4 but the majority of all the multi speed GM transmissions have an intermediate sprag which locks up in second gear. The worst thing you can do is come out of the water box in second gear. When you hit dry pavement and let off the throttle quickly, it can destroy the sprag. It's a very common occurrence with a TH350. Always shift into high gear as quickly as possible and come out of the water box in high gear.

With my powerglide, there's more holding power in high gear and I have enough torque that I don't need to start the burnout in first gear. In high gear, it also eliminates the chance of accidentally hitting the transbrake button and destroying the transmission in the burnout box.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

i'll have to try that but i dont think my trans gets to 3rd on burnout even if i throw it to third.

i always do my burnout in first so it doesnt shift to second. sometimes when it goes to second it will kick the car sideways and i have to abort the burnout quicker than i would have liked.

i need a manual valve body i think and a linelock

89305formula

iTrader: (5)

with my t-56 i roll in to the water box, put it in 2nd gear, drop the clutch around 4,000rpm and hold it at 4,500 till the rpms start to drop, then i know the tires are hot

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

blip throttle like many others in 1st, pump brake, line lock, let go of brake, start my burn out in 1st and row through the 3 gears, let go of line lock and let the car roll forward while still on the throttle. Throw it in neutral and get on the brakes if i think itll roll past the beams. Clear the carb out, twice cuz its cooler , activate the second fuel pump and the nitrous and procede to courtesy staging (i hate people who don't). As soon as i trip the staging beam, get on the T-brake , soon as both beams are staged hold it WOT and they're off

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Jesse STOP that procedure NOW!!!!!!

the tree WILL malfunction once in awhile, banging on the two step is extrememly hard on the engine, so dont be one of those idiots that immediately stands on the gas as soon as they light both stage bulbs, you are setting yourself up for hurting parts first and foremost, secondly-losing the round if the tree malfunctions

dont even consider going WOT unti your first/top bulb lights....seriously.

skinny z

Who runs Comp TA Drag Radials?
I've heard varying procedures. I try a few short 1st gear burnouts after the initial big one that puts heat in the tires.
I had major traction issues (thanks to the new combo) and tried everything to get the TA's to hook. I went down to 20 psi but still couldn't get good grip.
It got progressively worse as the evening air cooled and the dew set in.

AlkyIROC

There are times when tires just go away even if they still have lots of rubber on them. That's why you usually find used slicks that aren't worn out yet. For the person selling them, they're probably not sixty footing enough any more so they sell them and buy a new set. Although the tires are pretty good for someone who just needs a set of slicks, they're not good enough for someone determined to get the best 60' time.

As much as we would like to get as much life out of the tires before they're considered worn out, new tires can usually do wonders especially if you're using a DOT rated slick on the street. Street use really kills tires.

skinny z

I understand that tire quality diminishes over time as well as use. A set of tires sitting the garage for a decade really won't perform like they did when they were put away.

SLP-GTA

iTrader: (1)

with my old GTA (700R4 w firehawks) I would drive around the water box,
dry burnout leaving in 1st rolling out 10 feet or so. basicly cleaning the tires and getting a little heat in them.

My question, is it bad for the trans to leave in 1st and not shifting to second? I roll out of the throttle so not to end BO suddenly.

ETA also does heat treating drag radials really improve the grip

"Quoted"

Heat Cycling:

Leading tire manufacturers including BFGoodrich, Kumho, Nitto and Yokohama offer competition type tires that qualify as DOT legal for street use. Autocrossing, race days, driving schools and other racing venues demand this category of tire for maximum performance. However, like any high performance part, these tires require careful break-in to achieve the full benefit of their construction.

A competition tire is built with a highly sophisticated tread compound. This compound is capable of sustaining traction throughout a much wider temperature range, but is also extremely sensitive to the first heat cycle of its use. During this cycle, if controlled precisely, the tread compound stretches as it heats, breaking the weaker, shorter molecular bonds within the rubber. The benefit of this process is a tread compound that lasts longer and provides better traction. However, if the first cycle is not performed correctly, the tread may develop irregular compounding, leading to poor wear and inconsistent traction.

AlkyIROC

It won't hurt it but it defeats the purpose of a burnout. To do a proper burnout, you need wheel speed to build heat. A first gear burnout is good for what, 20-30 mph? My high gear burnouts are 100+ mph and it takes a couple of seconds to get the tires hot.

Slicks are designed to heat up and get sticky. Heat cycling from street use will dry them out. A true street tire is built for high mileage and the rubber compound is designed to not heat up. Doing a burnout with a street tire does very little if anything for traction and just wears the rubber off. Keeping the tires dry and doing a dry hop is the best way to use them at the track but traction will still be limited. Even street tires that have lots of tread left on them really lose traction. The rubber becomes hard and slippery even on the street.

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

on a pro tree my friend, sportsman i wait until i see the first bulb don't u worry

AlkyIROC

That's why I like my delay box and throttle stop. I hit the bump button just before I turn on the prestage light. The throttle pedal drops to the floor. Foot is on the throttle and I slowly prestage, then stage all the while at an idle. As soon as I stage, I push the transbrake button. When the top bulb turns on, I let go of the transbrake button and wait. The delay box tells the throttle stop to go back to WOT .800 seconds before the transbrake releases.

It's weird to watch. I'm sitting waiting for the tree at an idle. Less than a second before the last yellow comes on it sounds like I floor it then launch. I'm on the 2 step for .8 of a second. If I went against a pro tree, I'd have the throttle stop go to WOT as soon as I released the transbrake button.