GoodlookinRS

iTrader: (1)

How many of you are running in the 10 sec range or under?
kevin

car_fixer

I can run @ 10.5's engine only , little nitrous added and it kinda picks up a bit lol

AlkyIROC

What exactly do you want to know?

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

low 10z here

GoodlookinRS

iTrader: (1)

I just wanted to know how many of you guys are running that fast with your cars.
kevin

automec

10.00 @ 139.38 in 100* temp, 147 track temp, 6500 corrected elevation, and a 1.57 60foot

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Screwed up run did 10.67 @ 125 mph, 210 shot of nitrous.

GonnabeatargetZ

iTrader: (1)

currently running low 10.40's@ 129 in 4200 DA (95 plus degree temps, 60% or worse humidity...ugh) in my bracket car car weighs just over 3300 with me in it....one of us needs to go on a diet!!

IHI

iTrader: (1)

hoping to hit 9 sumthin with better air as car sits with sbc, pump gas, and muffflers with the juicey juice..ran 1/8th at 6.42/106mph with a 150 shot last weekend for the first time, but our track is only going to be 1/8th rest of the year due to flood damage and shut down for 1/4 being tore up.

gtpro700

Ummm did I read that right lol IHI your motor is 13.5:1 CR and nitrous on top of it and your running pump gas???? Whats the deal lol

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

you can do that sort of thing with e85.

AlkyIROC

But when someone mentions pump gas, E85 isn't considered because it's mostly ethanol not gasoline. The majority of cars on the road can't run E85 unless they've been converted. You could say the same thing for propane. Propane loves a 12:1 engine but you wouldn't consider it a pump gas and like E85, if the engine isn't converted to use it, a gasoline engine can't.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I have'nt run E85 since the first version of this engine last spring, and would never put that junk in my car again, too toxic on metal parts. But during the build of this second version, we found out my TRUE compression since block is a new dart lil m that has never been decked, my 13.5:1 slugs were actually in the hole enough that my true overall compression is only 11.8:1 and why the E85 did'nt do a thing for me on the dyno as far as picking tq numbers up. Once i knew what the true compression was i took 5 gallons of 93 octane from the Fly'n J down the road and a 5 gallon jug of 110 octane race gas with me to the dyno session/engine break in. Told the guy i wanted to wring as much out of 93 octane as i could since i drive the thing to much to try and run $6/gallon gas. We pulled into the 600hp range (6363hp/600tq) according to his dyno but those numbers are junk, and A/F was still rich so i said that's it, all i need to see.

I'm only running 34* total timing, 150 shot of juice pulling out 4* on the hit and plugs look better on the nitrous than they do N/A. LOL!! But i've heard the nitrous mfg. purposely set these jets up to run a bit on the rich side for safety.

I may try a 200 shot for kicks before i get wheelie bars, but as of right now the car just wants to go skyward on the nitrous pass, so i'm losing alot of ET looking at the clouds and need to get that under control before entertaining adding a second stage of juice on the 2nd gear shift.

Edit- you cant forget cam spec and valve events as far as overlap goes to, which factor in being able to run pump gas on a "seemingly" high compression motor. Alot of things play into what a engine needs/wants, i take chance and work numbers as opposed to just thinking "I have to run race gas" there's alot more engine running higher than needed octane and leaving ET on the table, but if it makes people feel safe, then do it.

87_TA

Pump gas 406, mini ram, 11:0 compression, 244/252 solid roller, 3.73's
Ran 10.89 best 1.41 60ft best off ft brake on motor alone.
125 shot also on 93 octane netted me 10.07 @ 132.. then never really sprayed car again, really wanted to hit 9.99 though and sure I easilt could have, seems that something was maxed out in my home built TPI plate system.
If I tried giving more, car fell on its face.

radialtireking

My car has went a best of 8.44 @ 161 so far. Pass was made at 3350 pounds on drag radials through the mufflers.

ross

I have run a best of 10.05 in street trim on dot radials with pump gas NA.

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

Just ran a bunch of 9.9x@ 137 this past weekend. Still have a tenth i can't get on the start from not enough tire, asside from the 150lbs I could easily pull out of the car. Sure my 1 5/8" shortie headers don't help either. Motor has 8.5:1 comp. on 15psi. Hopefully will be able to do the same next year on 8-10psi boost from a turbo capable of 25+psi.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Dont feel lonely, i absolutely REFUSE to remove anything from my car to go faster, it does'nt help being 3700lbs going down the track, but pulling exhaust, removing my subs/amps, installing racing buckets just takes away from my "street car" theme..which i know is interpreted differently by everybody, but i need a full interior and pipes, pump gas to stay within my constraints LOL!! even though i know i'm probably leaving performance on the table, i dont give a crap...mo powa is da answer.

GoodlookinRS

iTrader: (1)

Man you guys have got some fast cars! Man dude your running in the 10's and you have it as a street car lol. Do you drive it a weekly or like everyday?
kevin

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

I can drive it on the street, but I really get put down when I do because it has to rev at least 2200rpm+ to keep up 45mph from no overdrive and 4500 stall, and that doesn't help the probably 5mpg it gets.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

LOL, hardly...just not enough time, and my job i need/use trucks for work. We did do a steak cruise last saturday though. Had 32 of us local racers and car guys got all their cars out and cruised through some small towns to a steak house about 40 minutes from here, had dinner, crusied back into town to the local crusie strip, parked and BS'ed for a while, went to the track since they had midnight mania...kids get to enter and T&T/gambler race for $20 from 8pm until 2am, so went out there and made some passes.

Other than that i trrrrry to race everyweekend if i'm not swamped with work, and get it out as much as i have time here and there and visit buddies around town, but that may only happen once or twice every few weeks...running a business, time is one thing i have very little of I fill in my brain breaks b getting online and BSing a bit.
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yucky, how come your convertor is soo loose? i thought S/C and turbo convertors were a bit tighter so it does'nt shock the tires so hard with the ability to build excessive boost?? With my 29" tires, 4.11 gears i'm right around 3000rpm doing roughly 60mph +/- based on passing/getting passed ratio since speedo does'nt work LOL!

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

My converter is so loose because I get parts setup for drag racing only, then street them every once in a while. My cam is why the converter, it a solid roller that specs 264/271 dur@ .050 .626/.626" lift. It makes peak power right about 7400rpm, and I shift it around 7700-7800.

GoodlookinRS

iTrader: (1)

Ok this is for the turbo guys and who ever. I was at a local track and their was a new 01 trans am runnin 8's lol he had a huge turbo and i got to talk to him and i asked him what gears he had in the back and he said it was like 3:50 or something. He said that turbo cars dont like big gears and i trust him seeing his run but why is that?
keivn

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

First off, he is probably doing such a high mph that he would probably over rev the motor with a higher gear. This is what it is with me. Even though I only use a 3.73 gear, I use a short tire and spin 7300rpm at the end of the 1/4-mile. The turbo not liking high gears is from the way they make power. Turbos create boost by way of load. This is why manual transmission cars hate turbos, because they can't run a ton of boost right off the start cause with the clutch in there's no load on the motor. A high gear makes less load on the motor, so the turbo would tend to either not push as much air or would just be slightly slower to respond to the power demand. This is also a claim with dyno numbers. If the dyno doesn't load the tires as much as the car does, then the turbo wont push as much air to make the best power.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

All the power adder cars-cept for nitrous cars-really make a charge on the back side of the traps and they need to lower gearing to keep them stuck coming out of the gate and also keep finish line rpm's in check. They have the hp/tq to compensate for less than adequate gearing, whereas alot of N/A cars need the gearing since for us, 80% of our ET is in the first 660' of the track, you barely pick anything up on the back side....so everything is just the opposite when comparing N/A to power added cars.
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What LSA is that ground on? Do they spec convertors that much different for you pressurized guys? where was peak tq at?/what was it?

GoodlookinRS

iTrader: (1)

Man i would love to have me a car like you guys! I have a local track by me and every thursday its test and tune for 15 bucks and race as much as you want but i dont want to look like an idiot out their. I will be getting a new motor that will put me some where in the 11 sec range so that will make me feel better. Just asking you guys what do you think i would run?
I have an open element, 3:73 posi, high performance shift kit with vette sevo, all a/c and emmisons off the car, and flowmaster exsaust. I think i timed my 0-60 and it was like 7.2-7.4. Thats so bad lol.
thanks
kevin

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Mines for sale, buy the engine, get a free car

I would venture to say high 13's roughly if you dead hook, low 14's on street tires doing a squeeling show for everybody.

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

I got a custom ground cam from bullet racing, which was basically the same price as off the shelf cams. I told the guy what it was going in, at the time I was 10:1 compression with 10psi. The car pretty much immediately went from running a 10.4 down to a 10.0. The lsa is 114degrees. I kinda figured they'd put more lsa on it too, cause that still allows for bout 85 degrees of overlap or so. Dyno with 10:1 comp. and 10psi was 633rwhp@ 7400rpm 472rwtq@ 6800rpm. That high rpm on the tq is likely also do to the procharger making higher boost with higher rpm, like at 5500rpm it only made 4psi, but up to 10 by 7400rpm.

Forgot to say the cam I was running was a hydraulic roller that specd. 246/254@ .050 .558/.558 lift on a 112lsa which made peak power at 6400rpm.

I'd also guess a high 13 with a dead hook and proper driving.

GoodlookinRS

iTrader: (1)

Wow you think it would run high 13 or low 14 i thought like a mid 15 lol then i would look ok at the track with them guys running 16 and 17 sec 1/4s. On your speedomiter thing that you can reset i could reset it and run it till it hits 2.5 right and that will be a 1/4 mile? If so i will try that tommaro! I'm really hoping its a 13.9 that would make me really happy lol even know thats bad lol.
thanks
kevin

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

I want to say I've seen almost stock late 3rd gens run mid 14's or better.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

That is where i screwewd up, I HAD a Bullet in this thing's first version, then when it blew up the guy said he could get me more power...he was a Craps Cam dealer..i mean Comp.. and long ago i vowed never to put their junk in my car...but i figured this guy builds Outlaw S/S engines so he will take care of it...it dynoed more than the first motor, but this thing is slow as f..k now. After last yrs debackle i figured with alot of urging, to just run it this season, enjoy it, and then redo it all again this winter and call Bullet again for the next stick...smaller cams specs, but you cannot argue with their performance LOL!! Bob told me twice when i questioned his specs...shut up and run it, and if your not happy , call me....never had to call him since both times i was pleasently suprised.

GoodlookinRS

iTrader: (1)

Since you guys really know how to build some bad cars what would be a few mods that i could do that will also work with a 350? Mabey get me down to mid 13's.
thanks alot
kevin

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

The cam breaking is why I needed another one. It is the one that came with the trick flow top end kit, and is actually made by crane. They put a cast iron dist. gear on the cam so you can run a normal dist. gear. But to do this they make the actual cam diameter really small along with it being not that strong metal in the first place. Then with that smaller diameter they press on the dist gear and rear journal. Well, one day after about 1.5 years of racing, the cam sheared right off at that point and the motor stalled instantly right through the traps.

car_fixer

IHI Guess that falls under shut up and drive? If all else fails ...spray it lol

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

Hate to say it, but I missed the 305 part of your car. Think I need to move my guess up to a lower 15. I have a buddy at the drags that put a set of vortec heads on his along with other stuff and he's carbed. He had his 305 down to 13.3 before moving his heads/cam to a stock 350 short block and now does 12.3's.

Might want to check on what 91 GTA is doing here- http://www.fbody.com/dragrace/31517

GoodlookinRS

iTrader: (1)

I was like dang high 13 lol well thats what i thought. Well ill try and see tommaro any ways.
kevin

IHI

iTrader: (1)

YEP, choke that chicken with the laughing gas to get back what i lost LMFAO!!! and to think i was .4 faster N/A with a smaller cam and untouched heads....the guy screwed me, plain and simple..he does'nt have any other explaination as to why on his same dyno with his new work i made more power and am going almost a half second slower, hmmmmm.

We'll get it fixed, maybe to the tune of a nice BBC next time, The car took the 150 shot ontop of what i make normally just fine so i would'nt be afraid to build a nice little 7-800hp pig block to put between the fenders...still kind of testing the waters as to how much i can plant on a 9" tire and factory suspension. Juicing it is kind of cheating since it spikes the tq so much, it taints any comparable results to N/A, but that is the new goal i guess for the next engine 7-800hp, but it has to be long term reliable hp..hence going to a 555 or something of that nature.

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

IHI have you considered doing a big inch LSX? you could probably do a good 454 and get it going pretty well again. thats what i would like to do, but its looking like a 6.0 or maybe a 402 if i'm lucky. just another idea, there is a guy that made the 9s on LS1tech with a 454 and L92 heads. its something to think about. he's only 3350 raceweight though....

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I do agree the new LS series has ALOT or already proven potential, but i'm not out to set any speed records, and i have to be realistic...parts to borrow, fix, replace are a heck of alot more abundant and resily available for the 1st gen style sbc/bbc that it'd be suicide to run against the grain for my type of racing. Most of us at the track have donated/been donated a part or two, so there is ALOT to be said for going with the herd depending on what your intentions are. Just like i imagine with the LS crowds they probably help/share parts between eachother too, but those guys dont bracket race, they're going for all out passes. Not to mention there is only one shop in my entire area that touches LS stuff, and he just started last year and made the customer buy $4K worth of fixtures to even make that happen...then they just traded the fixtures for the work.

With my weight and pump gas addiction, i have no choice but to go bigger displacement to ultimately end up where i want to be N/A and have it not be hard on the motor..buidling a 700hp BBC is no harder than building a 400hp sbc, and doing such a small build on a BBC pushes it no harder than a stock engine with the right internals inside, make the power down low so you dont have to spin them to the moon.

ross

Yep that is my next plan also a big inch big block with pump gas. I want to go 9.50s to 70s NA then hit it with a small 225 shot of go go gas.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Exactly, i like the fact i'm still the lil guy of our group engine wise, but at the same time i really do want to get into consistant 9second territory, and to do that at my weight with a sbc would require a pretty radical engine that would in no way be streetable/street freindly like a BBC of the same output would be.

I already chose the parts for a freinds 498BBC that put out 686hp/645tq all by 6400rpm, it's also a pump gas combination using out of the box...read cheap...brodix heads, and i was kind of selffish in the fact he opened his checkbook and said, you pick out what you'd do, but i want to street drive it. So given the fact it's all on 93 octane, the fact we were making over 535tq by 2600rpm where the dyno was set to start reading, i think we hit paydirt. I'll use a much better head with better low number lift, but my buddy did'nt wanna fork over the extra hash for the AFR's i wanted him to get so we settled on BB2's and all we did was clean up the ports a bit on the heads and intake, plus under the carb area...not a whole lot, just a 2 hours blending/smoothing session on the bench

I fought going pig block up until the end of last year and have finally given in/seen the light LOL!!! I've got my BB headers, just need the engine to bolt them upto.

vwdave

You come into your torque curve alot sooner with a turbo setup.

And its not that a stick doesnt like a turbo, just turbos LOVE automatics much better.

car_fixer

If you can get the chassis to rotate with extra weight up front it should still hook, and i have to say for bracket racing, there are alot of merits to a bbc. As a plus, they sound good lol

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I'd still run mufflers so sound means nothing to me...i cant stand getting my brains rattled out LOL!! but yes, they are sooo much more forgiving if your 2-300rpm off your normal shift point, they're not half as finikey as sbc's with little screw ups, not to mention they carry enough tq from idle thru the power band any side winds, headwinds they kind of just schluff off and say...ahhhh, whatever

AlkyIROC

I have no intention of making my car a street car but I'd still rather have a BBC than an LSx. Without all the "street" stuff, it's a lot easier to work on the car. I also like my mufflers so I can hear things and my ears aren't ringing at the end of the day.

My engine isn't the biggest or baddest but it puts me in the ET range I want to run in and BBC parts are plentiful.. My heads are even too small for the displacement but a head swap to larger ones won't make too much of a difference. Maybe 100hp gain at the most if they're not CNC heads.

I've considered adding a NOS system for a little extra kick on my injected alcohol engine. Based on previous performance at altitude, 125HP will get me a 8.99 and around 300hp will get me an 8.50 but I would need to upgrade a few things to get into the 8's such as a chassis certification etc. Theoretically at a sea level track, I would already be almost in the 8's. I probably have too much gear for NOS anyway.

It would be nice to qualify for the Outlaw Doorslammer class.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/W...law_164251.htm

car_fixer

I run mufflers too, mine arent loud, just different. I always have people ask why my car sounds so different since they can tell my car without looking....I usually say it must be that 305........

IHI

iTrader: (1)

That's where i'm at, bracket racing tune and going fast tune are two different things, and i'm thinking at this point i'd like to take a few years off, build something fast for sake of going fast...has to be a door car though since engine sticks really dont do a thing for me, though it'd be easier and cheaper building a fast car on that platform. But if i could just afford a $15K lenco/liberty i could have my cake and eat it too LMFAO!!!

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I get the same stuff, i come rolling up into staging lanes, and at different tracks i always get one or two guys saying how quiet my car is...which is fine with me Weather or not my junk will run faster uncorked i dunno, it might, probably will, but i dont care...too much work unbolting everything. and as we've all seen, just cuz ya make the most noise does'nt mean your junk's gonna be fast....unless they come to the line with that extra deep, yet still quite, dems the motor's i'd love to sell the house, family, and dog to run just one season LOL!!!

car_fixer

Yup, I want one of those liberty's too, but the car is too damn heavy and near the edge of there allowable power to weight ratio....I dont know weather to be happy or sad about that

AlkyIROC

Last time I ran without mufflers, I was running in the low 10's. It was so bad that I needed ear plugs just to fire the car up and take it out of the garage. I could pull both my mufflers off in about 5 minutes or less. The only advantage it would give me would be a weight saving. I run Magnaflow race mufflers. They don't restrict exhaust flow in any way but do a great job of quieting out the loud crack of an aggressive camshaft. They're not quiet enough to be street legal but do the job at the track.

Some of the loudest cars at the track are also the slowest ones but we also still have 8 and 9 second cars that run open headers. We also have a 9 second dragster that runs upswept headers with no collector mufflers that you can stand beside when it's running and have a conversation. It's all in the cam grind if it's going to be really noisy or not.