well, made it to the track last night at cecil county dragway. 92 degrees and 90% humidity, 29 alt. made one pass before i started leaking oil in the burnout box.
rolled up and did a 2nd gear burnout...no accessories on and about 180 degree engine temp. spun the 28" slicks off the line...then hit the rev limiter on the 2-3 shift...with a carb that needs a rebuild and 91 octane gas.

2.088 60'
6.072 330
9.462 1/8th
72.52 mph
12.379 1000'
14.825 1/4
93.99 mph

car has gone 1.64 60' with a 355. it was hot humid and it was the first pass with the motor.
trying now to add 1.6 rocker arms, carb spacer, x-pipe, new holley carb, and ditch another 100 lbs from an already stripped car. i need about 38 fwhp to get me into the 13's in good weather, so we'll see.
project 305 continues....
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also adding trick front springs and LOOKING FOR v6 REAR SPRINGS to help me get my 60' back
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the trick front springs may not help at the power level you're at. and last i knew, v6 and v8 rear springs are the same (as far as base model rs's go and such) i'm running v6 front springs if that makes any difference to you...been 1.62 so far...

try to find a good deal on a set of weld's or something...the rotating mass alone is killing your ability to accelerate.

 

Whats the specs.

Unless you have swirl port heads you should be alot faster.

 

BONE STOCK '86 carb 305 motor. th350 trans with 3500 converter, 4.10 gears, gutted interior, long tube headers with 18" extensions (open) and intake and carb upgraded. it needs a new carb, x-pipe, carb spacer, and some draglites as someone pointed out.

 

Heh, I got a baseline for my almost totally stock ’87 305/5speed/3.08 geared/110,000mile project car. The only thing that I’ve found that was not stock was a couple of hoses, shift ****, steering wheel and the guy I bought it from noted that the clutch was just replaced with an aftermarket lightweight assembly (which doesn’t help anything besides hurts bottom end/makes it harder to launch. It smokes a little, which I suspect is some worn valve stem seals/valve stems.

60ft 2.161
330ft 6.265
1/8 Mile ET 9.699
1/8 Mile Speed 72.02
1000ft 12.628
1/4 Mile ET 15.108
1/4 Mile Speed 91.30

Oh, and that's on some mismatched street tires, which with the combination of no gear and lightweight clutch assembly means either a bad bog off the line or wheelspin. Really, I'm quite happy with that for something with no gear an no power... I would actually guess that it would run faster than yours with 3.73's or 4.10's and any kind of decent exhaust.

How long is the 305 still considered stock? I have thought about fixing the valve guides just for the expemeriment, but I may just swap a set of 305 heads that I have in the basememnt (they have over 150,000 miles with weekly racing on them in another 3rd gen TA that I owned, but they only smoked on startup. I'm debating swapping cams for one of the ones that I have sitting around while I'm in the engine...

 

just got a 1sy pass on my stock 92 tbi. open element air. kumho 245's. t-5. 112k mi. at OSW. my 1st pass ever.
r/t .691
60' 2.363
330 6.826
1/8 10.517
1/4 16.405
mph 82.90
OSW seems to fit the orlando spin world name. no power still easy to spin.time to be rid of tbi!

 

i think that there's power to be had in the x-pipe. without it and just open x-tensions, you're lacking alot of scavenging properties without it.

if you can find it, get the holley street dominator intake manifold p/n 300-36...it's a perfect match for what you and i are doing.

 

Hey guys i have never took my car out but what do you think my time would be?
mods

• High performance shift kit w/ corvette servo
• 3:73 posi
• Flowmaster
• open element
• All emmisons off car
• 305 84,000 miles

thanks
kevin

 

i say you got alot of room for improvement.......im fixin to go bact to the strip when i get my new gears and LSD....and finnaly install my headers, but here is the one and only run i ever did in the car

real humid/rainy night also, not good track condition
react .1961
60ft 2.2399
330ft 6.5879
594ft 8.9389
1/8 9.6328 @ 65mph

Spun off the line,

305 TBI
Custom Burned Prom
MSD Blaster Coil
Blue Streak Cap & Rotor
Accel Wires
A/C Delco Rapid Fires
No Emissions
Full 3" Exhaust Flowmaster 80 (no cat)
Open 10" round 4"high K&N Breather
Factory Restrictions Removed Out Of TBI
Drag Strip 700R4
Still running stock manifolds (my headers look pretty in my garage)
Stock Size Street Tires
2.73 Single Tire Fire

 

still slow...upper 15s at best

 

Ok i will be swapping motors in a little while to a 350. But is their something i could do now to my 305 that will work on my new motor?
kevin

 

converter, full exhaust, get rid of the restrictive blowmaster...

 

Well I like the sound of my car. But what if i get some headers and a y-pipe. Will that do me any good? Then the converter should i run like 3000 stall ANd how much would that cost? Then what would them 2 thing do for me as times go. mid 15's hopefully?

thanks (tell me more if you got some)
kevin

 

He’s got 4.10 gears, a 3500 stall and open exhaust… I may be a bit old school but I don’t see the point in the dual plane there unless maybe he sticks with the stock cam.

In my case I have a Victor Jr that I converted to EFI and I’ll probably replace the TPI manifold with it, make an elbow to mount the TPI throttle body to it. The biggest reason is that every time you want to mess with the TPI, change something in the fuel system or anything in the top end in some cases even pulling the valve covers, you have to mess with multiple parts and multiple gaskets… it’s a real pain in the butt. Also, if I’m going to go fast with the 305 I know that I’m going to find more gear and if I do swap the 5 speed for an auto I already have a 3500stall. Add to that the fact that the TPI really doesn’t start working till someplace over 3000rpm, going with a single plane conversion also has the advantage that it starts to work at about the same range but doesn’t fall flat on it’s face until a few thousand rpm past were the TPI does.

 

yeah...dual planes suck...i'll go tell the stock eliminator guys to slow down cause it's not possible to run that fast with a dual plane...especially combined with 5000+ stall speed converters and 5.88 gears, lol! mark ya know i'm just ribbin' ya.

honestly...the one i posted, breaths to 7200rpms and makes gobs of torque under the curve. i've been using it since 2004 and have had good results. i've just now started using a 1" spacer and at MOST it's giving me a tenth. (hey, a tenth is a tenth nontheless and i'll continue running the spacer) but i don't see the need to go to a super tall single plane over what i'm running.

 

But aren’t they required to run dual planes?

Doesn’t really matter…Yes, you and I know that dual planes can work well, but they’re still a compromise, they get a broad power band by having 2 of the runners on each side a different tuned length so half the cylinders are tuned for one rpm and half for another. It’s fine or even better for a street car or something that uses a broad powerband, but with enough gear and stall in a dedicated chassis you can tune the chassis and drivetrain to work in a narrower powerband and take advantage of the slight peak increase of a single plane.

Also, I’ve seen a few small displacement V8’s recently do dramatically (and surprisingly) better with smaller single planes and in the last few years a couple of the car rags did 305/vortec builds and were all shocked to find that they had better results with the victor (is it only the supervictor that is available in the vortec pattern?) then their expected winner some high rise dual plane, not that I have a real good reason why this is suddenly turning up on 305 builds…

 

haha..i actually have a performer eps rated to 5500rpms, which is a dual plane. the carb is an old BG modded holley from 1995 that has been on 4 motors, and was on my previous 357" combo...and it needs smaller jets and a rebuild.
the x-pipe should help, as well as some 1.6 rockers to give the peanut cam maybe 300-500rpm higher peak. with the new carb ill add a spacer to reduce some intake heat and get some torque as well.
STOCK means totally BONE STOCK...no head work, no smaller head gaskets for more comp., nothing disassembled from the heads down.
now with the drag wheel idea, we're getting somewhere.
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ALSO...i had a victor, jr intake on it that had been ported to my old dart heads and wouldnt fit, so i got this eps cuz it was $125

 

[QUOTE=mw66nova;3830287]yeah...dual planes suck...i'll go tell the stock eliminator guys to slow down cause it's not possible to run that fast with a dual plane...especially combined with 5000+ stall speed converters and 5.88 gears, lol! mark ya know i'm just ribbin' ya.
QUOTE]


LOL darn dual plane iron intakes.

 

Well, if you’re going to stick to the stock LG4 cam you’re not going to go that much faster… though I would expect you to be going faster than you are with what appears to be a reasonably non stock body/chassis.

As far as thinner head gaskets go… I doubt that you’ll find thinner than the shim style factory steel gaskets.

If you really want to optimize for that setup, then I would look at some 15x3 fronts with real drag skinnies, and probably 15x7 rear draglites with some hoosier 26x8.5 slicks (no use in going any bigger than you have to to minimize weight and rolling drag).

It would be interesting to see if an H or X pipe would work better. I suspect that their effect would be roughly the same but in different power bands and that the H pipe would be marginally lighter.

If you really want to make it lighter, you can swiss cheese half the car and ditch anything that isn’t making it go faster. Your power level will not get that high so I’d grab a factory aluminum driveshaft (probably the easiest would be an LS1 one even though I wouldn’t do that if you you’re going to make much more power, they’re not known for being the strongest).

Block off airflow through the nose, headlight covers and replace the headlights with the plastic H4 conversions if you still need them, if it’s a drag car than get rid of them, the buckets…

Have you gotten rid of any excess wiring? Copper is 2x the density of steel so it adds up fast. My brother pulled out over 100lbs of wiring out of his car just getting rid of the stuff that the factory put in for options that it didn’t have and for some of the power accessories that he removed.

Stereo still there? Sound deadening?

 

yea...the car was rewired just for lights,a few gauges and an e fan and line lock, so all stereo and other wiring, ecm, etc is all gone. no a/c heater boxes, one driver seat and carpet, no spares..cut out excess metal from fenders, etc. i have an h-pipe i was gonna put on for weight, we can try an h and then an x and really see.
the stock cam just blows, but part of this project is seeing how fast i can go with that stock cam. so the rockers may add 5 hp, the carb and spacer maybe 10hp, and the h maybe 5-7hp.
with 4.10s wont i want a taller tire? i was trapping friday night at about 4800 rpms with the 28" tires. it dies powerwise at 5k. i think 27x9's may be better.
it is a street car still enough to keep the headlights, but cover and some tape on race day may help. maybe lowering it just a hair to get it out of the air?

 

i hope you dont mean the front fender wells/strut towers...

 

no no no...i mean the rear. the excess where its welded and hangs over. cut for tire clearance basically.

 

Was this car originally an LG4 or an L69 car?

There is a 25 horsepower difference between the two.

If the car is an LG4, would swapping the original cam with an L69 camshaft still be considered a bone stock car? The L69 is a stock cam and is not an aftermarket upgrade.

My 305 TPI originally came with the LG4 cam (they did that in 86 for some reason) and I switched to the L69 cam during the rebuild. Would never go back to that other cam ever again.

 

in the new camaro performers there is a car that runs in the "stock class" its a sc camaro with an lb9 bored to 317 stock 081 heads, stock tpi on top. has a cam, th350 with 5300stall and a 12 bolt with 5:13 gears. they did not list the cars e/t, but it was doing a pretty nice wheel stand in the pic.

 

yea i saw that in there. i got the motor from a guy a state away and all he knew was it came from an 86 iroc. so im not sure which one it is.
it has a "201" on each side of the block it looks like but thats all ive noticed.
the car right now has an oil leak, but in the next two weeks or so im adding a carb spacer, h-pipe (first then x-pipe later to see the difference) and then hopefully some draglites with slicks.

 

Hey guys Im putting a stock 305 back in my camaro I also have a holley street dominator intake to go with it. I was wondering what are stock HP ratings for 305's? Mine is a .30 over rebuild with a hyd tappet cam.