gtpro700

When previously removing the panhard bar support bar I snapped one of the three bolts that mount into the frame. It is pretty badly rusted in there and was wondering if the two out of the three bolts would be enough when reinstalling it or should try to fix it somehow. Any suggestions? Thanks

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

use an easy out to remove it, if that doesn't work then drill the next size larger and tap it for a new bolt.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (15)

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

I'd use an E-Z-Out. Drill the small hole in the broken stud, the the reverse tap will dig in until it bottoms out & start unthreading the broken bolt.

gtpro700

I was thinking easy out but what if I have a problem with that? Because you said drill the next size up and tap it but the part of the "frame" those are in is hollow and who knows how much more material is after those threads. If I open it up it might become either weaker because of the lack of metal or even break through when drilling. I'm not sure I will try easy out first then go from there I guess. Thanks guys.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

When I pulled the intake off my 97 Tahoe to be painted & detailed, I broke a bolt off getting it out.

I didn't have an EZ-Out. I started with a small drill bit, then stepped up, size by size, but stopped before I got to one that would hit the threads of the head. At that point, what was left was so small & thin, it easily chipped out & my shop vac pulled the bits out. Problem solved.

gtpro700

I like this idea because I too do not have an easy out and that seems like it could work. If the threads are really rusted it might not work in my case though. Then what do I do if all I have left is rusted threads of a bolt stuck in there? Then I guess try the drill larger and tap if there is enough meat in there. Ill probably give your try a shot and see what happens. Also WORST case what do people think about only two bolts? would it be strong enough if I got some stronger bolts and tightented it down a little extra? Thanks again for the help.

vwdave

Dont use a EZ out. I can tell you from TONS of personal experience that when a bolt is rusted in and snaps the head off on removal, an ez out will not pull it. All its going to do is break the ez out and then you'll really be in for some fun. Either drill it out and run a tap through it, use a heli-coil, or break out the nut plate and weld a new nut in there.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

2/3 bolts is fine. This isn't a high strength part.

gtpro700

anyone else agree 2/3 bolts are fine because if it is im not going to lay under that car and get pissed trying ot fix the 3rd bolt? lol Thanks guys

gtpro700

I definitly want to replace the two bolts I did get out but im not 100% sure what size they are. The threads are so rusted its hard to tell and I cant even run a nut over it to find out either. I tried a 3/8x 16 bolt on the car and it screwed in but was a little lose it seemed. Im not sure if its the metric size thats very close to that or what? Does anyone know the size of these bolts? Thanks

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

i'm 80% sure it's an M8x1.25

It's a 13mm head right?

About 25mm long too. A helm manual would give you the info. get 8.8 or better, and washers if you can't get flange heads.

gtpro700

The head is a 15mm head and its about an inch long which I believe is roughly 25mm. I do have a manual and it only tells me torque specs and not the size of the bolt. Im not sure what 8.8 is. Is that grade 8? Thanks for the help.

Stevo

iTrader: (45)

2/3 would be fine by my vote. New bolts and make sure they are torqued properly maybe even give them a few extra clicks. That bracket won't go anywhere...

If you have the tools to tap a new hole, go ahead. But i wouldn't sweat it if you don't.
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Grade 8 standard is a little stronger then metric 8.8 if i recall. So if you went with a Grade 8 bolt it would suffice.

radialtireking

X2. You don't want to have to drill out the EZ out if it breaks. It's super hard and will just kill your drill bits!

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Grade 8 = 10.9 in metric
Grade 5 = 8.8 in metric
Grade L9 = 12.9 in metric.

Grade 2 = 5.8 in metric (IIRC).

You can't buy a "grade 8" metric bolt. If you find 8.8, that'll be good enough. Grade 10.9 would be nice, if you can find it. Home depot should have it.

I think M8, but it could be M10. I really think it's only M8. Then find the coarse thread of that, 1.25mm is it, I think.

gtpro700

Thanks alot for all your help guys I will swing by home depot and try and pick some up later or tomorrow. So overall if I cant fix it by drilling it out 2 out of the 3 should be fine though right? If anyone else want to comment on the strength of only using 2 its appreciated. Thanks again

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

For simple, just driving, your PROBABLY OK As for racing...especially autocross, where the lateral forces would come into play more. I'd say, go with all 3 bolts.

gtpro700

Yea I was thinking cornering would have more strain on it. Do you think more of a drag situation would also put a lot of stress on this area as well.(hard launches) This will not be an autocross vehicle but might see some hard turns on the highway once and a while but mostly straight line. I also picked up the bolts and it ended up being a 10mm-1.5 x 25mm and there 8.8 which Im pretty sure is the strongest home depot sells. Thanks again.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

First, almost nothing on the car couldn’t stand some reinforcement for hard use, so I definitely wouldn’t run it long term with 2 out of 3 bolts.

Second… I’ve never successfully gotten anything that was really stuck out with an ezout. I have broken multiple ezouts in the same hole and spent tons of time grinding the hardened ezouts out with a carbide burr…

If you’re going to do any drilling, the trick is to carefully get in there with a file and flatten the end of the bolt so that you can accurately center punch the middle of the bolt, that way you have the best chance of drilling accurately right up the center of the bolt so that all you have is threads to pick out… also, for that size bolt start with roughly a 1/8” or larger drill bit. A smaller drill bit will let you drill off center, a larger drill bit will try to follow the softer middle of the bolt.

Finally, what I would do would be to take a nut and hold it over the broken off end of the bolt, and then take a MIG welder, set it pretty hot and fill the inside of the nut with a weld, welding the nut to the end of the bolt. The heat from the weld will break the rust, and you’ll end up with a new head (the welded on nut) to turn the bolt out with.