Here a couple of pic`s of the revamped 496...I added some AFR 325`s and a 276/284 .770 lift roller, new 1.8 roller rockers and a AFR stud girdle too. I also went with a 2 piece front cover to aid in camshaft exchanges, picked up a MSD crank trigger too but may not use it just yet. The trans case had to be changed ( cracked bellhousing ) so it should be done this coming weekend, it is also getting a hardened input shaft, front half rollerized and also a 727 filter upgrade. The new converter is about done also, it is a 9 inch 5500 with a billet cover and custom everything, no factory parts what so ever built by the trans guru Mike Ridings. would like to see single digits on nutz this year!! WISH ME LUCK!!!

 

If you can't get single digits even without the spray then there's something wrong. That's got bigger heads and cam than mine even if it's down in cubic inches.

 

so how many will you spot me out this year?

 

Looks like a good combo you will be soild in the 9s on mule.

 

jeez thats a powerhouse

those AFR's should really wake that motor up

 

Alright!
Nice heads Real similiar combo! Hopefully we can keep them both
running and meet up eventually.. Just put my th350 back together - broke pump, output shaft, Forward drum splines stripped, and sprag! Also
found my case was cracked as well!! still not sure what caused...
So where did you get the bell housing? I have new one in, seems to be ok so far - in front of my house that is neighbor got mad..
So waiting for a day off when track is open
Still need slicks to, hopefully tax return can cover that.

whats with the crossover on back of intake?


Edit: holly s#@t, just noticed the spray!! rock on!
Looking for deeeep 9's upper 8s!

 

i was wondering that too...why the crossover in the back of the intake? what's that supposed to do? i see people run them from the front to the back sometimes too...never understood what this was supposed to do...other than look kinda neat.

 

Cooling system crossover to equalize the coolant temperature. There are a few different intakes that have the ports built in but the crossover is normally front to rear on the head not side to side on the banks.

A factory cast head has coolant ports on the sides of the head by the headers normally used for temperature sensors. It was common to plumb cooling lines from those ports back to the water pump to improve cooling.

I don't really like that rear crossover idea. Looks like a good place to get an air pocket.

 

I would rather see it run to the water outlet, above where the tstat would , that combined with a restrictor forces air out of the rear of the heads, obviously being replaced by cooler water , hence cooler more even heads

 

Normal cooling system puts the cold coolant into the block at the front (water pump outlets). There are water jacket passages along the deck to allow some coolant back into the heads but most of it goes into the heads at the rear of the block. All the heat that the coolant picked up around the cylinders now has to travel back through the heads to the thermostat and upper rad hose.

By installing the coolant lines at the back of the intake, you take much of that hot coolant from the block and bypass the head with it straight to the thermostat housing area.

Crossing over the coolant line from one head to the other doesn't help remove the excess heat but it will equalize it so both heads are the same temperature in case one cylinder is creating a hot spot.

I'd say remove that hose and run it up to those ports beside the thermostat. The one with the temperature sensor in it needs to be modified for the sensor or the sensor relocated to somewhere else. Drill and tap another hole for it. Both lines could also be tee'd together and return to the rad or upper rad hose.

 

if your bell was broken. why not just put a ultra bell on. required at 9s anyway. and way stronger.

 

Well it was an extra expense at the this time, and really did not see why the bell broke nor do I still... Alignment pins are plenty far out and tight..
It cracked from the pump area by oil lines across to other side, so that housing was usless.. I will be looking into a bellhousing as soon as funds permit, just needed to get car ready.

edit: oh, I think you were asking Greezmonkey. Sorry.

 

i can tell you why it broke.
because the stock bell housings break . expecialy with a motor like that.
all it take is one sress crack and guess what.

the ultra bell is actuall no expense.
here is my logic

you go with a junkcore with a good bell housing.
ill say you get it for 25 bucks.
then you go to the track and it breaks

you will mostlikley break the converter flexplate and crank if you are lucky.
those parts will easily cost more than the cost of the bellhousing.
i told this to a dude with a 383 when i worked at jegs.

about 3 moths later he had to build a entire new motor. it broke the pump, converter, flexplate, crank and back two rods, block and heads.
hmmm that 200 part would have been nice.

 

thats not a very good explanation of why it broke.....I put 900 hp through my turbo 350, with a trans brake every time i go to the track, although i have a scatter shield on the sfi approved flexplate, and a csr trans shield, i am not worried about the case.......
so because you think they are junk isnt a helpful explanation, unless some thing is wrong the forces on the case are minimal, except in rotation, most bell housing failures are from flex of the mounting points in relation to each other ie chassis flex.
So , how does the original poster have his engine mounted? a big block will make pretty good torque and that needs to be controlled, if it is lets say on factory mounts for example, and the trans mount was changed to a solid mount, i would bet some thing will break first time it hooks good, if greesemonkey would like to tell us how its mounted maybe something might show up there as an explination

 

Well I could see your logic, but money is still an issue reguardless at this point in time (not to mention just got home to find hot water tank leaking), plan to spray car at some point as well, so really not sure if I am sticking with the 350 yet or not - may start building a glide.. I checked art carr anyway, their bells were $320 - good bit more than 200..

Not sure what you drive, but I would bet you have made some short cuts, so most understand the point.

Can't speak for Greezmonkey either, but seeing I had same issue:
I run solid engine mounts with Poly rear bushing.. May have had some sort of issue to begin with, not sure - kind weird where it broke though..
We will see what happens this year.
One thing that concerns me, just after getting transbrake in car, and still running worn out stock struts, that offer no resistance on way down.
car wheel standed almost hitting bumper, when it came down it bottomed out pretty hard on headers and k-member, that may have cause something..
New struts fixed that little issue, though 4 primaries are pretty crushed still.

 

you could say ive been there lol, twice actually. I actually fixed my headers, and bumpstops to prevent them from hitting again. that may have caused a problem with your trans, but i wouldnt want to bet on that, it is as likely as anything else though, was the oil pan hit, or trans?

 

Hey guys thanks, I never thought about that crossover, it was like that when I picked up the intake. As far as bellhousings breaking mine broke EXACTLY like 87TA`s...cooler line area over the top to the other side. I am on the same mounts, solid factory position and urathane trans, although I`ll be using a rubber trans this year, I just recieved both motor plate and mid plate in aluminum, they`ll be going in over the next winter for sure. I check back in later, gotta run right now.

 

sure is pretty GM, looking forward to what you can get'r tuned to..soon hopefully

 

No luckily,
Headers and K-Member are both lower than trans and oil pans.. I know it was a shot in the dark, but wishful thinking..lol

I now have a deep trans pan on though, but still dont think it will hit.
I am gonna look into my bump stops as well, good idea.
Not sure how I am gonna fix the headers, guess I will have to tack weld to the dent, heat and pull out maybe..

 

That`s the way it should go, I`m going to do it, Thanks!
----------

That`s the best way to go but the darn things time out in what 5 yrs? just like any trans shield.

 

Thank you sir! I`m trying to get it out asap, trans should be here this weekend or else...mmm never mind. I have the entire new fuel system to plumb and it is for the most part all here, new cell in the back BG400 and filter fed by a -12 and -10 running to front to a Y block to feed both the motor and the nos system, with thier own regulators of course, should be fun straping down $400 worth of fittings and tube/hose, except for pulling the cell to install a larger return bulkhead. New tires need to be mounted and then it should be good to go.

Yea it would be neat to meet up one day, I did run into a guy who said he knew you, I don`t know how we got on the subject but he let out some pretty good secrets naw..just kiddin`about the secrets part.. I would like to see some numbers like yours though.
I have had some small issues with the th350 but for the most part all of the good stuff is in there and it went for 75 passes with no problems, in fact i don`t even know when mine cracked, my trans guy saw it and asked when I was planning on telling him? I thought about the ultra bell but I bite off way more than I could chew this winter and I`m just hoping to get it together in the next few weeks.

Oh and the plate is just and itty bitty cheater with a 150 pill, if you look close you can see the fogger holes in the intake! I kinda leaned toward a motor cam still for the engine but I did put in a decent I to E spread but it`s still on a 110CL I`m not sure what the heck is going on but it`s frustrating, I had a gaggle of 143 /144 MPH runs late last year with a 9.9X ET...the converter/tires/traction were all going away though so I`m not getting my hopes up for a 25.5 car soon but I`d be happy to be where you were on motor last year. Good luck this year car is looking killer (saw it in your other post)

 

I would put money on both of you having the same problem, and an ultra bell probably wouldnt fix it. the problem is chassis flex, look at gm's avatar for example, installing a mid plate would help alot, then all the trans mount does is hold the trans in the car if something goes bad wrong. The way those cars are now is trying to bend the trans, and it doesnt take much repeated motion to do damage. I trimmed the midplate, added mounts on the plate and prepped the body, installed tabs and all in a few hours, to facilitate trans service and engine removal i made the tabs so that the engine can still tilt back if i take out the 4 bolts holding the plate to the body,i have poly engine mounts to allow it to tilt.
i have some pics


I know its hard to see, if needed i can borrow the camera and get some better ones

 

I see it and you are the reason I decided to put in a mid plate, I saw how well your car leaves with it. I have to admit that the rear anti roll was not installed yet with that avatar picture, it leaves very even now but I would like to put the power in the strongest part of this noodle, on the cowl. I picked up a 3/16 mid plate and a 1/4 front plate both in aluminum. I`m switching to a rubber mount to help the situation until the plates go in.

 

look at the relation of the hood and the roof, the left is higher, what you cant see from that angle is that it has lifted the front of the car in relation to the body too, say if you had your finger in the gap at the front of the door, and launched, it would hurt, the mid plate is really all thats needed, the front just becomes a hanger at that point, it does make a good place to bolt stuff though lol

 

Thank you!
Who did you meet that knew me? Or better yet what did he drive - I usually remember cars better than people.
Itty Bitty cheater? 150 ponies on top of 750hp is always alot of fun!
Can't wait to try it myself, maybe this year... Better start checking ebay for a plate. Any secret I have is your bud, But I will bet I am going to be asking your secrets soon! Thats a awesome combo! and a beautiful car wrapped around it, wish mine was still pretty..


CarFixer:
That could be, especially when car was first done, I was still using 6 point cage with no rear sway bar, later added the swaybar - which probably made matter worse being the suspension was not absorbing the twist. Have since completed cage with front bars and cross brace over tunnel - so that one may have cracked a while ago, and just like Greeze's trans, I had no clue either until I was power washing case and still almost missed it.
I will have to look into a plate though!

 

if that engine is only making 750 hp, something isnt right lol.
I used a tci mid plate with the scatter shield for the flexplate built in, i dont know if it will fit yours, but it kills 2 birds with one stone, it may require a small amount of clearanceing inside the bell housing

 

Well just trying to be realistic, to many people throw around huge numbers..
When I built my combo last year (Which is very similar) I had a goal of 800 hp and trap speed of 142.. So far with my vehical weight 3400 and current best of 141 trap speed the math comes to 780 (uncorrected).. Looking at others combos before getting mine together, I was scared I would not meet my goals, but seems to be in the right ballpark.
I would expect he will be real close to mine - but I would say some good sealevel air would get us over 800s easy.

I will look at the mid plates, Thanks!
So with the mid plate, do you need to space the converter out some to make up for the extra distance?

 

i would think with those heads, your I to E spread is fine for the small shot but you can get alittle tighter on the LSA. 107-108 would be nice. Probly give you some topend on the motor while not completely blowing out the shot

 

i dont do short cuts.
it just takes me longer to finish my projects.
i believe buy the parts the first time and have no regrets later.
the motor in my s10 is 12 years old. and still runs 9s.

9.93 at 134.98. its a 355"sbc
i do have the ultra bell. but i also have a 1/4 midplate and a 1/4 motor plate.
so that could be the problem

----------
here is the one i have from jegs. click the link
http://www.jegs.com/i/J%20W%20Perfor...92451/10002/-1

 

I would bet there is a short cut in there somewhere! Do you rotate axles ever 30 passes as moser suggest (less it a ford 9" with unequal lenght axles), change bearings every season and have rods magnafluxed? J/K Nice truck though!
I am looking into mid plates also, thanks for link, that does seem well worth it for $236!! - looks like a nice peice! I will more than likely be pulling trans this season again to install one.

 

the converter guys at transmission specialties said that it should be ok, but i checked it anyway and didnt feel that it was in the transmission pump enough, so i added spacers behind the converter tabs ( i used machined washers ) that were close to the thickness of the plate. if you use a 1/4 inch plate you may need an extended nose on the converter

and mattsv8 , I am sure i could find a "shortcut" on that truck, but thats not the point, I will say that it is a nice looking truck, and having front and rear plates, and a full frame i might add helps alot. some shortcuts are created by people not knowing the right way to do something, we have all been there, and if there was one best way, we wouldnt need to race, since everybody would know the same things.

 

its a 9" chromemolly housing, strange alum carrier pro series spool and gundrilled 35spline axles. with willwood brakes.
but you know what the stock front discs are still on so i guess that would be a short cut. but they work great.

ive hit the jw bell with 300 shot on thie hit with a 5500 8" tci group 6 converter. i dont think the bell would ever break. its about 1" thick no bull.
and if you have a nhra or ihra membership with a points number you can sign up for the jegs racer discount and i think the bell is 199 then.

oh yea. the tci converter has a addon ring to elongate the hub so it goes in the crank and the kit comes with longer 7/16 bolt and true machined 1/4 spacers. they also make a kit for 1/8th"

 

OK...got the motor and driveline in last weekend, it`s a killer sound coming outta this thing now!!



this was fri evening before all of the plumbing / wiring was put in, I`ll get a complete shot of the finished engine bay tonight

 

great pic

 

sweet, whens testing start?

 

Memorial weekend most likley, possibly this sunday coming??

 

nice! that car will ride out. Also got my motor in last weekend..fun stuff

 

looks like the engine making another 125 judging by the new trap speed on motor of 138!!!@9.93 This sucker gotta be putting 800 to the flywheel for that!!

 

nice!