383 stroker- 570 fhp, tko-500, 12 eaton posi, 8-point roll bar, sfc, stock suspension other than spohn components on rear (torque arm, lower control arms, panhard bar. car will be launching between 7600-8000 rpm, slicks, roughly 3300 lbs with driver, thanks for the replies, jeff

 

skinnys on the front?

 

haven't bought them yet, but i'm thinking draglite 4" or so, fiberglass big block hood.

 

Launching above 7600 rpm? Why, does the engine make peak power at 12,000 rpm? By 7600, your torque curve will be so low that you might as well be launching at 1500 rpm.

You want an honest answer? Providing you can get traction to the ground and nothing breaks, yes, but I think you'll be lucky if the front wheels only get 3" off the ground, if that.

My engine makes peak power around 7000 rpm. The curve is actually very flat between 6500 and 7500. I only launch at 4500 rpm near the peak of the torque curve. With a transbrake launch, I only pull the front wheels a couple of inches off the ground.

 

Ya, but you have a 4 link car. You can make it do what you want. Stock type suspension cars tend to yank the wheels a lot more. My GTA and my 78 T/A pulled the front end a lot higher than my Grand Am, but the GA 60 fts much better. The first move is foward and then carries maybe 2". I'll take that leave anyday. My young buddies car carrys the front 3ft, and he loves it. I'm like Stephen, why launce at 7800? The motor has to be out of the power range by then. Looks like a LOT of broken parts to me. Leave at the start of your tourqe curve if you know what it is, the car will run much better ets.

 

there are a whole lot of ifs to this whole question. not knowing much about your engine, I wouldnt want to be the guy behind you waiting to make a pass.
whith that supposed hp, and a launch at that rpm I dont think you can get 2'nd fast enough. but hey try it let us know..get a vid even.

 

the purpose of this thread was just to see if it would if i let it go at that high of an rpm, i was on the phone yesterday with my local race engine builder and asked him what kind of rpm would i be able to launch at and he replied that he would start by getting use to this motor then start out at 7000 rpm see what kind of time u get then start going higher until my time starts to drop.
this is what he wrote on the reciept when i gave him a deposit:
chevy stroker 383 cu in. engine w/ the following.
-4 bolt main block bored, honed, decked, align bored, clearanced for stroker crane and balanced.
-jrp forged pistons
-6" 4340 connecting rods
-3.750 stroke 4340 crank
-moly rings, clivite bearings
-set aluminum heads
-vic jr. intake manifold
-solid lifter camshaft
-roller timing chain set
-roller rocker arms
-hp push rods
-gaskets
-hv oil pump and pan
- valva covers, h balancer
-dynoed
-holley billet 170 gph mech fuel pump
he is also getting the double pumper, wires, distributer, plugs so all i have to is put her in and go. so are the things that are listed worth calling this a good motor?

 

your going to have a LOT of broken parts launching at 7000. Don't care what your engine builder tells you. Depending on what cam and heads you have, that 383 may make power up to 7000, but you don't launce at that. Don't think prostockers even launce at 7000. Try launcing at 3500 /4000. You will be much better off.

 

i must have miss understood what he said, he must have said that it would make power up to 7600- 8000 rpm, so does it look like it will be a decent motor by looking at the list i posted. i don't mean to sound stupid, just new to the game.

 

Some Comp Eliminator cars launch at 7000 rpm but their engines are worth more than your whole car.

Take it to the track. Make a few simple passes with launch rpms up to 3500 rpm to see what it does. Without knowing a lot of specs about the engine or the rest of the car, I'd guess and say you'll probably run somewhere in the 12's.

 

If it's a solid lifter flat tappet cam, I dought it'll make power to 8000. It'd take a heck of a camshaft to make power up to 8000. Is this motor going in a street car or an all out race car. The parts are decent parts. But compression ratio and size of camshaft will be limited if it's a street motor.

 

12's with a $7000.00 motor, come on, it has to be better than that.
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i'm not sure what you would call it racecar- street car. it has 8 point roll bar, sfc, gutted, fuel cell, re-plumbed, solid mounts, just dont have my drivetrain back in it yet.

 

You might be able to hit 11's if it can hook up. So far you haven't given any specs on anything. No camshaft specs, no gear ratio, no tire size, no carb size, no head specs, no compression ratio or fuel type. The only specs you've given are flywheel HP and a rough race weight.

 

make sure you have a good enough clutch, driveshaft, u-joints, and a 12 bolt or 9"..... and try launching at 6,000 rpms. try to keep the tires turning over 3-4 times on the launch. if its bogging, go up from there.

launching at 4k and having the tires dead hook, youll break more parts than you will launching at 7k spinning a little bit.

 

now that makes sense to me, something needs to slip or i will brake something, and your right i will be beefing up the clutch and etc. to take the thrashing. what u said sounds more like what my motor guy was saying.

stephen i didnt ask for an e.t., you came on board and told me i was gonna be making 12 second passes without knowing the same info you said i didnt provide, it doesn't take a back half and a list a mile long of things done to your car to make a 10 sec pass.

 

You could have $15K in the engine, and if engine parts+driveline parts are'nt in sync, you could have a 13 second turd....all the money should be invested in the top end parts, the shortblock itself, you'd be suprised how much power they can handle, so if you have $3K in the shortblock, that's fine, probably have some decent pieces in there, and stuck the other $4K in the top end, and heads/cam work well with the compression it could be a runner. If your getting good power upto 7K out of a stroker, i have to assume a big compression motor and huuge duration cam, that's the only way it will work. Strokers are designed for low end grunt and decent midrange. i know my 427sbc started losing hp after 6100rpm, tq was peaked out at 5100rpm and dropped after that...so if i wanted to pull the chip and go against the convertor, sure it'd probably leave pretty hard, but some combinations work better running upto peak pwr-"getting a run at the convertor" so to speak but since you have a stick, you will probably dump the clutch at say 4500 and when the clutch grabs it may bring it back down to 3500...that's just an example.

Until EVERY detail of the engine is posted, everything is a guess at best.
What's overall compression ratio
what type of fuel
what carburator-cfm wise
What do the heads flow
What are the exact cam specs
What intake, and is it ported at all in the runners/under the carb
what's your timing curve going to be
What size rear tire
what gear ratio
what is track elevation/or "typical/average" DA when you running

too many variables, but the more info, the better th answer...just like anything else, kinda like posting a question "my car is running rough, what could it be?" well, it could be anything...we need more info..

 

You want to know if it will pull the wheels and nothing else. OK, no it won't.

I've seen 13 second cars, not third gens, easily pull the wheels. It's all with torque, gearing, suspension setup and weight transfer. My car runs 9's and barely pulls the wheels.

Third gens are very nose heavy and you've said your suspension is basically stock so unless you have a lot of gearing, torque and can get all the power to the ground, you're not going to pull the wheels. The front end will come up but I doubt the wheels will come off the ground. Maybe the left front one a bit.

 

calm down stephen, come drink a crown&coke, i know your a big shot around here, i'm not trying to ruffle your feathers. hey look i removed my rear bumper and took out all the weight back there, what did you do to attach the bottom side of the plastic bumper seeing that it doesn't have anything to attach to anymore. i was thinking of just welding a single piece of metal to the center bumper tab and bolt it down. i plan doing the front bumper tomorrow, is it as easy as the rear?

 

with the vauge build sheet for the engine, and not knowing anything about the car, is there potential for it to pull the front wheels off the ground, yes, but if it does it will be a violent jerk of the fronts, and then when attempting to hit 2'nd it will slam back down, and if it remains hooked might get a little day light under them again..all that is under the belief that you did plenty of research on suspension while waiting and have a decent setup under the car, but more than likely it will be like alot of cars with decent power and not enough grip, and im not talking just torque arm cars either.
good luck, hope it is every thing you expected

 

i know i'm gonna have fun in the car, i don't need for the wheels to leave the ground to do that. i was just curious if i was in the realm of possibilites. fastest way down the track is with all 4 wheels on the ground anyway. and if that's not fast enough i'll put a little spray on it. thanks for the posts, i can see that the general concensus is that the wheels will stay on the ground.

 

If you want it to yank the wheel you should have left the back bumper and the weight on. Yeah every pound matters but a pound behind the rear tires is going to help you hook and be worth the extra weight and if you want to yank the wheels up hooking would be a good thing.

 

the piece of metal that i removed under the bumper wasn't very heavy at all, i expected it to weigh more. i have battery relocated back there as well as my fuell cell, it should do just fine.