IHI

iTrader: (1)

picked up a 28' so looking for ideas on setting mine up, already know what i want and my layout, but looking for more ideas to incorporate.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

golf cart in the front with cabinets for tools and the generator. also have a large diamond plate toolbox in the front for other items like jacks/jackstands and few other items.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Right now layout wise, considering 4' of cabs base/wall on the left front wall, fold up aluminum table across the front, and cubical along right front wall to house portable sheeoter. I'll store the winch/battery in the one cabinet and put an anchor point in the center of the trailer so i can just attach a pulley to the hook point, run my winch cable in an L shape to pull the car in/let it out...trlr does'nt have the big door on the side and since car is getting touched up, i'd just soon not door dig it against the trailer walls.

naturally tv/dvd player,microwave,dorm fridge, and stereo. Am considering notching out the floor and reframing it to house a recessed spare tire so that's outta the way. My generator is a 6500W unit i use on jobsites so i'll just roll it in the trailer and leave it in there unless i need it, right now they have the hardwire going out to the trlr tounge where they had a smaller unit bolted down permenantly, so i'll just have to take that out and install an RV plug since i usually put the generator as far away from the pit spot as possible. Wire up 4 external outlets-2 per side 1 front and 1 rear so anybody can plug into me or we'll have pwr either side depending on pit spot and how it works out. will probably buy another contractor compressor to keep in there so i can do away with air tanks, then run a hard line to the rear of the trailer with a coupler so i can just keep an air hose coiled up once i'm set up for the day.

Figure i'll paint the trailer floor with a few coats of poly paint, then the third coat I will mask off the floor just leaving the tire path and mix in some grit for traction for the days we get rained out so i'm not doing smokie burnout to get in the trailer. Then once i find the sweet spot where the car needs to be, i'm going to screw down some aluminum diamond plate pieces for the tires to sit on so hot/stickie tires dont pull up my floor paint from sitting and melting into them.

Waiting for my HVAC sub to get back to me, waiting to see if he can get me a roof top ac/heater cheaper than normal retail so when the wife and kid come out in the summer they're not dying and can chill out in the trailer. I want it set up so i can have a little living quarter area up there so to speak, nothing fancy, just the necessities so when i'm racing out of town i can offset the stupid $4/gallon gas prices we're gonna be paying by summer in lieu of hotel rooms.

So i already know how i want it pretty much, but just like my construction gig, I love looking at other's stuff to see how they did it for ideas i can incorporate and make it that much nicer/user freindly.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

way nicer than the setups i've been using. your idea sounds like a holiday inn built inside. haha. That traction thing is a great idea although won't you be winching the car in and out so the "grit" isn't needed? The diamond plate for the hot slicks does sound pretty trick.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

ive been knocking around the idea of using a 24' box truck. lmao....

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I stopped up to pull the previous owners plate off so i can hit the courthouse today and took a couple pics, outside is fine, interior needs to be spruced up..just wish it'd warm up so i could start messing with it..10* right now





Digger-i thought about a set up like that a few yrs ago too, if you could find a low boy chasis that would help, but the ramp system to get the car up into a truck box that's 3-4' off the ground, that would be a PITA i think...but it'd be nice, no trailer to worry about, get on the hwy and drop the hammer.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You might want to paint the floor with rubberized garage floor paint before you start. Not sure how it would handle the oil already in the wood, but a bud painted his used trailer floor like that and the results were awesome.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

The floor is getting painted for sure, just wwaiting to get some feedback from my contractor forum to hear what the paint guru's have to say as the best way to attack it since it has soo much oil leeched into the plywood already

I was checking around today for the actual rubber mat/flooring to install in there, i really like the look/feel of it, but at nearly $1300 to do this floor, that's not gunna work either, I want it nice, but i'm not gonna have twice of what i bought it for into it...nope, it'll be nice without being over the top.

cp87GTA

I'd try cleaning it with super clean, mixed 4/1. That stuff is pretty potent. i use it straight on engine blocks with very good sucess. I've cleaned them better than some shops around here. Nice trailer, wish I had one. I couldn't get it in my back yard though, with out taking the pool out. And the Mrs. ain't going to allow that!!

ryan91rs

iTrader: (1)

well if you had the cash i work for a moving company and the kenworth trucks have air suspension. flip a switch and your 3 feet off the ground. weld in a door or ramp like the trailers and it would be money. plus at 26' keep it below 25,000 GVW and you will not need a CDL. The box is the expensive part but there is E type anchors everywhere! and i can guarentee it goes over 85 w/ the big CAT engine.


total cost w/ equipment prob. 100K

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Ahhh, yeah...about that...LOL!!! I'm outta room here at home, and i'm sure the neighbors love seeing all my work trucks parked in my driveway, sucks playing musical trucks to get the ones we need out for the days activities and on the way home I was like, umm, okay, we have this nice big trailer...where the f..k am i gonn put this thing now luckily a buddy owns acres on the outskirts of my neighborhood and has a huuuge pole building, and other guys keep some stuff up there, so I had to put in a call to see if i could park it there until it warms up a bit; glad he's a nice guy and let me do it LOL!!

I just found out about some property in the little town down the road that my buddy owns and said he'd sell to me for a decent price-well below assesed value-his BIL is in there currently with some kind of food surplus store (scratch and dent food grocery stores wont accept) but his BIL is'nt making the juice payments..just the bare minimum rent only, no utilites so my buddy gave him the ultimatum, pay up the difference by May or your out...and basically told me, if i want to buy it, he'll kick him out regardless LOL!! 40x90x16 building in a strip mall type set up, parking lot front/rear, 1 OHD in the rear for getting trucks indoors, front of store i could rework and make a office/display area...it's just missing residual space is all...but the price is definately right and i'm going to talk with the bank next week and see what we can do.

Hate to drop that kinda money on a building and add even more monthly bills to the mix and have the work slow down since everything is going up in price...so far i've been getting calls starting for large scale jobs (good since it's very early in the year for calls to start like this) but with construction, the big jobs usually start in May, and whatever we sell through April is what carries us into fall as the phones usually die down over the summer with large jobs and it goes back to piddly stuff. The place i really want is just up the road, 4 yr old building, 4 large bays, ALOT of land, office inside..and plenty of space to add on a display room addition..but i'm still nervious about making a large scale purchase this time of year since anything can happen.

whoa, where did i go with this thread LMFAO!!!

AlkyIROC

Years ago a local racer used an old school bus to transport his car. Opened up the back and had a simple canvas flap for a door. Made ramps to pull the car up with a winch. Looked dumb but worked great.

Wish I had a truck big enough to pull an enclosed trailer and a place to store it. It's hard enough backing my 16' open trailer into my back yard with a short box pickup truck. Probably wouldn't be so bad if all my neighbors would quit parking in the alley and give me some room. My back yard is big enough for an enclosed trailer. It's just difficult pulling out into the alley.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Some of those allies can be a PITA, we've done plenty of work where we had to try to use the alley entrance to save hundreds of trips to the front of the house, and they can get very narrow and all you can hope for is the homies have a deep back yard we can wheel the trucks/trailers onto the jobsite, or even with material unloading when we get deliveries...i dont envy you.

kinda like living in the country, i hate working in the country and would never want to live out there.

ross

I would post a pic but mine looks just like yours I bought a 01 24 ft pace shadow about two months ago. I had to paint the walls white and will be using some gray epoxy paint on the floor. As for cabinets I dont have the room for them and a golf cart I will have a fold down counter top. AND A ROOF TOP AC.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Ross, i checked with some of my personal painting contractors i use and also talked to some on my contractor forums and all agreed they would NOT use the epoxy on the trailer floors. Durability wise it will hold up great, that's not the issue, the issue is that when it's fully cured it's soo hard it gets brittle, and a few racers i also emailed siad they used it and after about a half season of road travel it started getting cracks in it from the torsional twisting that our trailers all experience while going down the road and pulling into/out of parking places.

So just wanted to throw that out there since that epoxy is'nt cheap and application is'nt easy, would hate to see a guy go through all of that and be unhappy with the results before the year is even up. I'm getting the names of a few brands of tough paint to put down, but so far the downfall is the oil soaked wood, nobody really wants to say with any certainty any of the tough paint they're recommending will adhere 100%.

so i'm still hem haying around, we're looking at carpet for the house tonight, so i'm going to get a price on the normal checker board stuff and see what that'll run, or maybe even another pattern if i see soemething that will look cool...like maybe a granite or black marble type design...we'll see.

I think i'm going to get some carpet to put about 3' up the walls from the floor too-the really tight knit stuff like speaker box carpet. I seen one guys trailer like that and it looked awesome, not to mention if a car door swings open at least it'll have a bit softer surface to bump into vs a wood wall.

BlueBeast

I used regular deck paint for the floor. I put bags of grit in it and have had no problems with pealing or slipping. The walls just normal white paint.

raptor80dad

As far as the floor, could you sheath over top of it with 1/4 or 3/8" ? Then you can finish the new surface any way you want.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

We install underlayment all the time for kitchen/bath remodels and there is no way i'm going to go through all the trouble of installing the underlayment since it HAS to be stapled ever 2" on the butt and 4" in the feilds so it lays perfectly flat...then once you get it all stapled down, then i'd have to go back and fill in all the staple holes and edges/seams....not real practical, not to mention even using 5 layer luan, it is still a very soft overall substrate and will not hold upto wear and tear of typical car trailer use.

I swung by our Sherwin Williams store to talk with their head guy, told him what i had, what i wanted, current state of affairs, etc...

He told me to:
1. put some oil dry type material down to draw up as much oil as possible
2. mix up some heavy duty degreaser and scrub da floor and let it dry.
3. he showed me some sort of filler that he said was baddazz to put in the ply to ply joints to help it tie together and prevent a crack point supposedly between the sheets of ply..it was'nt that much so WTF.
4. After that stuff has set up, they have some sort of primer they use to cover graffiti and he tells me it'll stick to water, so prime the whole floor with this stuff...cant remember exact name, primer block, or something like that? i dunno.
5. Once the primer has dried, then mix up the epoxy and paint that on. He showed me the bathroom in the store where they used it and put in the sharkskin grit, and after seeingit firsthand, I'll do the entire floor with it..i could'nt see it like a sand texture, but there was no slippery spots, and both the guys helping me said it sweeps up just as easily as a normal floor.

The two other brands that Jonsey recommended, they said would not hold upto solvents-like brake fluid, brake cleaner, anti-freeze, etc...and told me epoxy is the only stuff that will hold upto the chemical aspect...wear and tear the other stuff would be fine, but they said it bubbles with chemicals, so i guess that's out.

So unless there's something better i think this will be the route i will try, this store supplies most of the larger contractors in town with their product, and i've heard good things about'em and that's the only reason i even stopped by the actual supply store, they gave me a warm and fuzzy feeling, but we'll see.