AUSSIROC

iTrader: (1)

I am about to take the IROC to the strip for some timeslips after the engine and trans overhual i did.
The engine is pretty stock with 355ci, flat top pistons, no smog or ac gear, shorty headers, balanced internals, rebuilt stock heads, and numerous other minor stuff (stock cam). The 700r4 is fresh with some upgraded internals and stock converter. I still have the bonneville-ready 2.77's the 9-bolt.
I should have a 2 1/2" cutout installed (like it'll make a huge difference anyways, lol...). I have stripped the engine bay of unnecessary items to save weight, and the battery is in the hatch. I have KYB AGX adjustables up front, and i'll change the settings to full soft i think. The car is 2 inches lowered, which may hurt the launch.

I have only raced at the strip once before and my tree-skills are ordinary.

I am hoping to crack the 13's at maybe 90-95mph, but this is a bit optimistic i think.

Any opinions on what i can expect out of the maro?

Cheers,
Chris

89formula350b2l

iTrader: (11)

Do you have any mods for the car? Catback? headers? CAI? if nothing then 14.7-15.0 depending on launch.....should've gotten LCARB since you are lowered.... good luck though!

AUSSIROC

iTrader: (1)

Got shorty headers and hopefully cutout will be on. Whats CAI? Cold Air Intake? If so, i have cut the bottoms out of the airboxes and have k&n's. Also, what does LCARB refer to? (Lower Control Arm Relocation Bracket maybe?)
I guess an adjustable panhard bar wouldn't hurt hey.

TA!

AlkyIROC

Do you have the necessary master switch installed at the rear? You may not pass tech depending on how strict the tech inspection is at the track you attend.

plumminfool

Add a little spray, and you're there. Good luck!

AUSSIROC

iTrader: (1)

I have a painless disco switch mounted on a fabbed aluminium shelf in the hatch. Hopefully thetech guys dont insist on it being on the outside of the car. Should be ok. Thanks for the heads up!

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

switch has to be accesible from the outside

AlkyIROC

Basic master switch installation when you relocate a battery from it's stock mounting position:

Must be accessible from outside at rear of car. That means you can have a removable rod attached to the switch going to the outside which you can take off for street use.
The off position must be clearly marked
If installed as a push/pull, push will be the off position
Switch can not be made of plastic or keyed
Switch must be installed on positive side of battery
When switch is turned off, it must kill all the electrics in the car and stop a running engine.

If your installation doesn't follow under any of these rules, you probably won't pass a tech inspection for having a relocated battery.

AUSSIROC

iTrader: (1)

Yeah. Hopefully if that is the case down here as well, they might overlook it.
Im shooting for very low 14's, very very high 13's (lol) so they may look the other way when they see my car aint exactly a fire-breather. Yet...!

The tech guys seemed pretty casual last time, so fingers crossed. Changing the switch location, etc is something i should look into though...

AUSSIROC

iTrader: (1)

Yeah i went down to the strip. Tech guys popped the hood, checked my helmet, shut the hood, then that was that.
Best run 14.25 @ 93mph w/1.979 60' times. It feels like the gears (2.77s) are holding me back a fair bit. Also, i shifted at 5500. Too much for a stock tpi?

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (2)

5000-5200 or is is about where the stock tpi (from what i've found) liked to be shifted at. The gears are KILLING you, 3.73's and a 2800 stall would do wonders, though 1.97 60' is pretty good for what your setup is.

AUSSIROC

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the gears need changing that for sure. Gears and a tq conv sound good