82whiteZ28

ok im trying to figure out what im going to need so far as for suspension. i have LCAs non adjustable and i ordered up a jegster adjustable torque arm. im going to be running a MT drag radial and i want to cut 1.4 60 foots what else do i need? any suggestions? i was thinking something like a spohn sway bar for the rear and some 50/50 shocks?? any ideas??

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

a lot of HP to hit 1.4 60'

big STR rating on your stall, great traction, deep gears, etc etc

82whiteZ28

thanks for your awesome input as always.

AlkyIROC

I get 1.40 60' times but then I also use a powerglide so I don't get the increased torque multiplication of a low first gear.

What are you getting now with the suspension you already have?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

well i'd like 1.3 60' times but I don't run bottom 9s either, you would need to spray a lot out of the hole to get to a 1.4 60' with a sbc. Basically tune the suspension and order everything under the sun that they sell along with tuning the chassis for the launch. You'd want adjustable shocks/struts, different pinion angles, anti-roll bar or air bags, and you are shooting for drag radials and not slicks which hook harder....so yea you get my classic response of research, research, research.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

1.32 60's here

4-5 grand in chassis/suspension stuff (bolt on stuff, not minitubbed)
3100lb. car
28x10.5x15 slicks
th400 3600 converter, 9" rear

im running a stock LT1 with a cam/mildly ported heads and it probably makes around 340rwhp on motor, and im spraying a 125 shot.

1bad406

iTrader: (1)

You don't need a ton of HP for low 60ft's
1.405 60ft's with a N/A 406 on 28x10.5's with all bolt on suspension.

strokeronthesause

1.37 on motor and 1.28 on the back tires on spray.........i did a mustang for a friend it dynoed at 348rwhp and that goes 1.47

bb454camaro

90/10 shocks are better for drag. but if its still a street car i dont think they will work very well. biggest thing is being able to transfer weight to the rear solidly and to eliminate wheel hop as much as possible.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I want to cut 1.4 60's and you ordered a jegster tq arm and will be running MT drag RADIALS????

is this going to be bracket raced? or just a test and tune car to have fun with your buddies? and driven on the street most of the time? If your just going to run it 2-3 times down the track i would say a nice beefy rear sway bar and dont expect much when you do go out with this combination. When you finally wear out the radials and you want this suspension set-up to work, then buy the bias ply slicks and you'll be happy as a clam.

or

send the jegster tq arm back and get a factory length style tq arm, this is the only route you can go to honestly hook up with your drag radials and try to achieve the 60's your after since it will allow the chasis to take much of the hit/shock on the leave. The short tq arms put alot of the energy into the rear tires only since it changes the AS and IC so much. great for a bias ply slicks, not good for a stiff sidewalled radial tire that have enough problem consistantly hooking as it is no matter what.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I keep telling him Josh that some nice ET drags or Hoosiers are the way to go.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I know I dont understand this big enfactuation with these stupid radial slicks. They dont hold up on the street if you try to street drive them, they dont last half as long as a set of DOT rated bias ply slicks weather they are street driven and then raced like all mine have been, or just track only...they dont last regardless, and once you start putting any amount of power to them the chasis needs to be spot on for CONSISTANT 60's. With what I do it's very frsutrating to see your 60' move more than .01 during a days time, but soo many guys that just go out to have fun could care less they are literally all over the ficken place off the line...all they see is the 1/4 mi time/mph first and then the 60' second.

Hard to judge weather a modification you did is actually doing anything when your jumping all over the place number wise...no solid baseline to judge things off of.

My biggest thing is getting the point across to him that if he insists on running these DR, send the short tq arm back and go with a longer design so the chasis takes alot of the shock and eases the shock on the tires..it's such a touchey situation putting a no give rear tire on a car that has decent hp/tq and making it stick the same every pass...but I know most guys on here could care less and only make the track a few times a year, so consistant/solid numbers dont really mean jack to them.

5678TA

i have 90/10's and i run them on the street no problems.. to me, it doesnt feel much different then the monroe sensatrack's i used to have.. but it is kinda weird when it lifts and doesnt settle..

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

I 60 foot in the 1.60's (best was 1.61, avg is 1.65)... ET in the 11.40's @ 118 mpg.

10 point cage
spohn SFC
Spohn LCA brackets
Spohn adjustable LCAs
Spohn adjustable panhard
Jegster adjustable TQ arm
KYB AGX adjustable rear shocks
New moog v-8 irock rear springs
Air lift drag bags in rear
Stock rear sway bar
Stock worn v-6 front springs and struts
Nitto 555R 275/60-15 DR's
Powertrax lockright locker

bb454camaro

thats what i was kinda getting at. i didnt know exactly how they would feel cuz ive never had them on a car driven on the street. as long as he is fine with a little un-conventional ride from the shocks go for it. definitely will help 60ft times

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I hear ya, it took about 4 blocks to get used to them, but with any major suspension change, there will naturally be a learning curve. Thinking a person can go out and flog a drag race type suspension like they would an autocross, or even a factory style set-up is unrealistic...just like trying to build an autocross car to compete in a drag race is unrealistic...ya cant have your cake and eat it too, and IMO I dont think the 90/10's are anymore dangerious/handful then any other type of strut/shock set-up...you drive within the limits of the car itself, and it does'nt take long to readjust to the new feel.

5678TA

amen to that.. both points..

brutalform

Almost in the 1.4s. At least I hope to be this spring. Low 1.5s now with a stock torque arm, anti squat brackets, and boxed factory control arms, stock struts. I would like to dip into the high 1.4s. This thread reminds me that I really got some suspension work ahead of me.

knj8

i've been told the relocators make a big difference be it bolt ons or weld ons.
i haven't got mine welded on yet. I alsp agree with IHI ditch the drag radials everybody I know the runs them pics up serious time on et streets and to a bigger extent drag slicks

sixpackmtrspts

im told the best thing you can insatall is a anti sway bar like the wolfe race craft or similair.

brutalform

Thats part of the plan, except I won a new Comp Eng bar (universal) off Ebay for less than 2 bills. hopefully I'll get it on in a week or so.

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

This is taken off of the Wallace Racing web page for computing the needed hp for a 1.4 sec 60ft time with a 3500lb car

"Your HP computed from your 60 Foot Time of 1.4 at Weight of 3500 pounds is 634.13 HP."

car_fixer

1.35 60 foots 3245 race weight m/t slicks 28 x 10.5 stock rear pickups with after market lowers (stock geometry) and random tech. arm similar to other tubular arms i have koi spa 1s out front and they help dial the amount of wheely ( the rear bumper isnt scratched yet but its been scared a few times) the hardest part to good 60's is getting the front wheels to trip the beams lol, I have no experiance with drag radials so i dont know what they want ..hey wait here is the easy way.... lighten the car

88IROC350TPI

1.56 60ft's on a decently prepped track. My suspension is completely stock (and original) minus the sway bars. No frame connectors, no roll bar, no tricks... Just a set of 27x10.5" Hoosier QTP's and mashing the pedal to the floor.

I'm a firm believer in keeping the suspension nice and simple. It's no secret that our suspension in stock form works good as is, so why buy a ton of fancy adjustable parts and whatnot? Sure it's better, I suppose, but it's also more things you have to play with and dial in - all when the stock stuff with some simple modifications can work just great.

AlkyIROC

Adjustable suspension components only work if you understand what happens when you adjust them and are willing to adjust them for different track or driving conditions. That's why a setting one one car may not be the best setting on another car.

car_fixer

geez that iroc is twisted a bit ....some of that complicated stuff works lol

Shadygrady

iTrader: (3)

Not trying to jack the thread just want to make sure I understand what you guys are saying.So keep the stock tourque arm if running dr`s.I`m looking at slicks/dr`s and not sure what to get.My tourqe arm is stock my 60 ft sucks(2.2 best)I`m spinning into third gear,most of the way down the 1/8th.I think I got the power to do better just no traction.So if I get the bias ply slicks do I keep the stock tourqe arm or what.Is there a better aftermarket one that is stock length.Thanks for any info I know little about susspension moddifications.

5678TA

pretty much any aftermarket torque arm is better.. i would say just get the tires and if it doesnt hook, then look into upgrades.. dont wanna waste money on something unneccessary.. who knows, it might hook better with the stock torque arm.. if it has wheel hop, get LCARB's..

car_fixer

the possibility of the stock torque arm bending increases greatly with slicks and do you have a front sway bar? if so take it out for drag racing

Shadygrady

iTrader: (3)

Just ordered my UMI lcarb`s today.Just trying to decide on dr`s or the m/t et treets or what.Sounds like yall are saying slicks.I do have a front sway bar.What does it do and why is it better off.Need to get my 60`s down mph was good calculated .for mid to low 13`s my 1/8th time was 9.4,60`2.3,@ 80.Gained serious ground on opponents when I finally got traction.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

for track only then slicks, i would skip the drag radials. ET drags or hoosiers, skip the ET streets as well, just go for the drags you don't need a DOT approved tire for the track.

Shadygrady

iTrader: (3)

What i wanted to know.Thanks

5678TA

the front sway bar is ONLY going to help when you take turns.. it keeps the car from leaning too hard in turns.. in a straight line, there is no lean on the front end so it is not needed.. it would just be dead weight.. the loss of that front end weight would help weight transfer to the rear tires by improving the weight ratio from front to back..

Shadygrady

iTrader: (3)

well guys,do yall know of any slicks that will fit on our cars with the factory 16x8 iroc wheels cause I`m not seeing any.Please correct me if I`m wrong.That could be the facination with the dr`s cause they make`em to fit the stock wheels without putting on air shocks or buying new rims.For me two extra stock wheels and/or two tires is pushing my budget.Two new rims and tires prolly wont happen any time soon.Thanks.Also,I`m not sure what the sway bar weighs,but is it that much?Wouldnt relocating the battery be just as good because you wouldnt just be removing weight you would be moving it to the back which is something i`m fixin to do.Thanks again.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

1. If your going to the drag strip thinking your going to win a show car trophy, your not. forget the 16" rims and slicks, find a set of steel outta the boneyard for the time being, mount up some real stickies and get consistant 60's and the best 60's your going to get for the time being. Any testing done, any tuning done without being able to make consistant launches is like pizzing in the wind, you'll NEVER have a solid repeating number to base any modifications on since you never know where your at. there is a term called function over form, this relates directly to using whatever 15" rim you can muster up, unless your in stock form running 15-16's, then they do make a 16" slick that will work, but 15's are everywhere so it's alot easier to score some used ones that will work just fine and last a long time if you dont plan on racing both days every weekend.

2. your not losing the front sway bar for weight, it does not weigh that much like you've already figured out. your losing it to allow extension of the front end and better weight transfer to the rear of the car so you "plant and go" I've never autocrossed, nor do wwe have many autocross events locally so I never got into seeing how fast i could take a corner, but when I first got the car, it did handle very good. When I removed the sway bar, and many other's have similar experience for "average driving", they noted zero difference in feel after they removed the front sway bar. but for going in a straight line...it's gotta go, less weight and better chasis reaction.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i will be getting a pair of 28x12.5x16" et streets for my factory GTA wheels in the near future.
gonna be cool poppin' off low 10's with the stock dubs.

they also have some 27" ones for the 16's, but they are a good bit more narrow.

Shadygrady

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply,I`m really just getting into the drag raceing as I`m sure you can tell.Whats a good size for 15 and what is the 16" that will work.I`m not trying to win any show car award at the track I just wanna get better 60` times and not spin tires most of the way down the track.I mean I`m also not trying to win any drag raceing awards either.Just want to test and tune and get my car to the best I can get it to with what I got.I still need practice at the strip to get my starts better but my reaction times were pretty good for a beginner,even got a 1.6something once and all otheres were in the 1.7`s,but no matter what I do I just spin and spin thats why I obviously need some kinda slick.Thanks for the sway bar explanation.I took it off and was like how could that make a difference?btw the reason I`m asking about tire size is I`ve spoken on the phone with someone at jegs and a couple performance shops and they dont seem to know that any will fit the 16 inch rim.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

you can get 1.5 60's no problem with a 26x11.5x16 et street. (with a decently setup suspension and enough power)
i got a 1.53 with my LS1 camaro using those tires. 6 speed, ~3400lbs, 376rwhp.

RWB____s

How many actually run tubes in there tires for safety? By not running tubes,wouldn't that soften the side wall of the slicks to the point of being unsafe to run? Then on the other hand would a slick with a tube be as stiff at the side wall as a drag radial?

Shadygrady

iTrader: (3)

Sorry,I was refering to my reaction times,with 1.6 and 1.7 the best 60` I could pull off with about 10 trys was 2.2.(That is if you were talking to me)I`m talking about getting raped out of the hole by everyone I raced.Even though I believe I had the faster car cause with most of them I`d be neck and neck at the end of the 1/8th on an 1/8th mile track,barely losing and winning a couple barely.I wish I was pulling 1.7 or better 60`times it`d a whole new ball game then.Plus,I dont have that much power at the rear wheels.I`m lucky if I got 300 hp at the crank.Now I might have that much tourqe at the rear wheels but I`m not putting it to good use.Arent thr E/T streets the same basic tire as the slicks with grooves cut in them?

brutalform

One thing to note here, is that alot of tracks, including mine, will not allow you to run in any street classes with an ET Drag, or a true slick. The ET Street, is a true slick with minimal thread to allow you to be legal in the street classes. It pretty much depends on the way you want to run your car.

Shadygrady

iTrader: (3)

strictly test and tune for the foreseeable future just for the pure fun of it.However I would like to do as best as Ipossibly can.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Wow... You need to work on those RT's.. 1.6, 1.7 is bad lol..

Use to be a .500 was the best you could get, but now most tracks has started going with .000 as the best..

If they still use the .500 timing then you want to see no more than .600 on your RT and still thats too much to win races.. RT needs to be in the .05 range or better.

So if they are using the .000 timer then .100 is all you want to see, but .050 would be even better

5678TA

1.6, 1.7?!?!?! JEEEEEEZZZZZ i thought my first try was bad with a 1.1.. the most consistent way i have found is to just barely creep into the second stage light.. just barely turning it on.. then you need to drop clutch, or floor it on the third amber.. or once that second one disappears.. with the shallow stage, it allows time for the car to go forward and not trip a red light.. you can adjust your RT by how far you stage.. well at least i can..

RWB____s

I think were talking about the 60 ft. times here. Not actual reaction times.