Ok, heres the rundown. My setup has changed, again, and hoping someone can shed some light. I just want low 13s. I've got people telling me that I'm underrating the setup terribly

1990 Camaro RS
-No power locks, no power windows. Basically unoptioned
-No AC, no smog pump, no power steering
-Aluminum Water pump
-No heatercore stuff, blower motor, etc. That is all basically gutted. 1 QT overflow coolant tank
-No carpet/insulation. No backseats. Gutted basically, 2 race seats only
-Going to be hoodless for a bit. When I do have a hood, it'll be a 4" cowl fiberglass hood by glasstek

Engine:
-350 bored 0.060" over
- Flat top pistons with 4 valve relief (speedpro)
- Vortec heads, screw-in studs, machined for higher lift cam, swirl polished valves
- Full roller Aluminum rocker arms 1.5 ratio, chromoly Pushrods
- LT4 hotcam (.492/.492 112 LSA 218 duration IIRC)
- Weiand Stealth Air Strike intake (its like the edelbrock performer RPM AIR gap)
- Barry Grant Speed Demon 750 CFM with Mech secondaries, no choke
- Accel distributor, hypertech 55k volt coil, MSD spiralcore wires
- ~10:1 compression when said and done.
- Hooker Super Competition Headers, full length.
- No exhaust, running open headered

Rest of Drivetrain:
- World class T5 with Hurst shifter and synchromesh fluid
- Centerforce clutch
- Aluminum Driveshaft
- 7.625 10 bolt with 3.23 Posi.
- 255/60/15 Mickey Thompson ET Street Drag radials on American Racing Outlaw II wheels

Anyone got a guestimate for me?

 

skip that cam and run a XE274 by comp instead and it'll make more power or if you have a roller setup then go with the roller version of that camshaft.

 

cam is already in though It should be fine for a street setup. I'm going for a lil more power to weight ratio than just brute power.

 

if you dont obliterate that 10 bolt you could get 12's out of it i would think, a little more gear would help out alot. but yeah as-is 13's should be a cake walk