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Is trading to Weld draglites worth it?????

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Old 01-22-2007 | 11:21 AM
  #1  
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From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Is trading to Weld draglites worth it?????

OK guys, here is the deal.

I know a guy who has a set of Weld Draglites. They are 15x3.5 front and
15X8 with 4.5 backspacing on the back. The front tires are new radials and the back are too tall for what I need.

I can swap my wheels and 2 front tires to his wheels and two fron tires. He wants $100 and I will have to pay to take off his rear tires and new lug nuts.

Pics of my wheels are in my sig and at my cardomain site.

I like the looks of both his and mine. I was just thinking weight loss and the look of the welds. Also my wheels are 15x7's so I would gain some width on the rear.


I am buying new Hoosiers for the rear. So its $100 plus I can get lugnuts for $26.50 and $10 for having the rear tires took off. Total of $136.50


Would you guys do it?

Is the weight savings worth it?

Thanks
Old 01-22-2007 | 12:13 PM
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AlkyIROC's Avatar
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Cast or billet rims are still heavy compared to race rims such as Draglites or Pro Stars. Reducing the unsprung weight is always preferred. One of my 32x14 tires on a 15" wide rim is lighter than a smaller steel belted radial on a cast rim.

Although many people use race rims on the street, on the rims it clearly states for race only. They're too thin for normal street use. Potholes and curbs can easily damage a race rim.
Old 01-22-2007 | 06:01 PM
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From: Midwest IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: Alky 360
Transmission: TH400, Freakshow 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.71
The trade would be money well spent, not to mention reducing rotating mass, will make the car accelerate better
Old 01-23-2007 | 07:35 AM
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From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I think I will go ahead and trade. I really like the welds and will be saving some weight. I need the 15x8 on the back for the Hoosiers also.

I dont drive the car except to the track and sometimes around town.

I guess I will just need to watch out for the potholes!


My front wheels/tires are 40lbs each. The new welds with radials are 27lbs each.

The rear wheels will save me about 2lbs on just the wheel. The M/T Indy Profile ss are listed at 30lbs each vs the Hoosiers QTP's at 17lbs each.

I should have a weight savings of 26lbs front, 30lbs back for a total of 56lbs.
Plus my rollout should be better.

Sounds like a better deal when I get it all down on paper.
Old 01-23-2007 | 08:22 PM
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The weld wheels are pretty tuff ... I'm running 15x4 ProStars on the front and drove the car once to work and hit a pot hole (good one) and thought (there it goes) took it to a near by wheel shop on my lunch hour just to besure (nothing .. they guy said "I would worry about these bending real easy on the street .. I mean there are guys who drag the rear bump and drop 'em) but it never hurts to be careful! I love my weld wheels (make 'em look tuff,polish is nice,designs are good looking (just be careful on turning lol less wheel and with power steering they turn super easy)
Old 01-23-2007 | 08:55 PM
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
It's not the up and down bumps that are hard on them. It's any kind of severe side thrust put on the wheel. Hit a pothole or a curb when the wheels are turned going around a corner etc.
Old 01-24-2007 | 07:13 AM
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From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I have the front swaybar off right now. Add the skinnies on the front and it will be interesting.

I dont plan on any road racing or high speed highway driving. I will just be taking a cruise around town on occasions and back and forth to the track.

The roads are in good shape around home. I guess it will make me a more alert driver, not that I dont pay attention right now.

Do you guys think it will make much of a difference with rotational mass?
What about a better roll out?

I will be loosing appx 15lbs off each rear wheel/tire combo.
Old 01-25-2007 | 01:38 PM
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From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Well guys, I got the tires took off the 15x8's and there is a sticker inside that says Crager Company!!!!! I knew that Crager had the steel versions, but these are aluminum!! Are these older Crager's, or what?

They look just like Weld Draglites and are aluminum. What gives?
Old 01-25-2007 | 07:02 PM
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: th350
I still wouldent drive on them. My friend had some race only rims on his car and just from taking taking turns it cracked the rim from the center to the lip.

It was a centerline rim not weld but these rims arent strong at all i wouldent use them on the street.
Old 01-26-2007 | 07:15 AM
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I've drove on skinnies and fatties by weld the past 4 years and never had once problem (I'm running a 195 metric radial on the front and keep my air pressure at proper height) but thats just my experience. I know Craiger,Jegs,Summit make Draglite and ProStar look a likes .. but I know those are cast alum. where as Weld are forged. I say just run 'em bro! if they are clean and straight They still look good .. all the newer style of welds are stamped "Weld Racing" and then gives a born on date and style where the lugs and center cap go. My rears say "WELD KCMO 01/06 ProStar Street" and fronts say "WELD KCMO 02/05 ProStar RACE" <--- anything 4" and lower is a RACE only application 5" up say Street.
Old 01-26-2007 | 07:28 AM
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bluegrassz's Avatar
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From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally Posted by amerikan_rhino
I've drove on skinnies and fatties by weld the past 4 years and never had once problem (I'm running a 195 metric radial on the front and keep my air pressure at proper height) but thats just my experience. I know Craiger,Jegs,Summit make Draglite and ProStar look a likes .. but I know those are cast alum. where as Weld are forged. I say just run 'em bro! if they are clean and straight They still look good .. all the newer style of welds are stamped "Weld Racing" and then gives a born on date and style where the lugs and center cap go. My rears say "WELD KCMO 01/06 ProStar Street" and fronts say "WELD KCMO 02/05 ProStar RACE" <--- anything 4" and lower is a RACE only application 5" up say Street.
Yeah, I beleive they will be just fine. I weighed the rear 15x8 and it was 15lbs. Thats the same as welds, so who knows. I tried polishing on one and it is looking great. I might be able to get them all polished up this weekend. I will be a few weeks before I get the Hoosiers for the rear. I also have to put on new brake lines, so might as well do it now.
Old 01-26-2007 | 02:59 PM
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: th350
Well mine are 4" and dont say race only on them. I take corners easy with them just incase. The rims 88z28guy has on his car are some kind of pro star lookalike, and the person that had them befour him used to haul around curves and never had a problem with them. They are 4" also, i was just trying to say if you do use them be careful.
Old 02-04-2007 | 07:37 AM
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Yup I agree with ya Just as long as your psi in the tires are right,good tread,proper lugs and tq on them .. your good to roll!
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