laiky

As i sit here watching my baby rust, i'm trying to find something to do with it. I have always wanted to race it. Since there are no drag trips left in the area, i'm thinking about autocrossing it. I've always prefferred the idea of autocross since it seems a little easier on parts and pays practical dividends in terms of driver skill. My question is from a rules perspective and an enjoyment perspective, what do i need? My car is modified with a 383 so i don't fit in any class i could hope to be competitive in (don't really wan't to be competative, just have fun). What parts/setup do i need to get started?

I'm at stock ride height right now with IROC springs and illumina struts/shocks. All bushings are urethane, and i have a solid PHR. I also have a wonderbar. Lets hear your suggestions!!

RS Chris

You have a good start. Maybe some high performance tires (you didn't mention what you have now). Also stiffer springs and sway bars will make a difference.

The most important thing is seat time. Just try the car like it is and find out how it handles in the current setup and then figure out what you want in terms of handling and cornering, and don't forget about brakes.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Yup.

And about the tires, it's really nice (especially if you drive your car on the street) to have another set of wheels and tires so you dont' chew up your good ones. Start off with some junk streets, then maybe try find some used R's later on.

Check with the local club to see what classes the offer. Many clubs have their own classes, ie TAMSCC has SSM Super Street Mod (we had this before SCCAs SM) which is, street tires over 101 tread wear, and current inspection sticker... that's pretty much all the rules for that one. SCCA wise, you'ld probably fall into SM (street mod) against race tired cars, but can still be fun. I'm not too up to date with the street tire classes.

One thing I'ld do (and did) was throw on some sub-frame connectors. I had a mild 350, 315s on the rear, 275s up front, sfc's. I ran (uncompetitvly) in SM, still had lots of fun. Co-drove someone elses car in F-stock for regionals/divisionals.

Lastly, please be aware that autocross is a gateway drug. It has been know to cause people to 'downgrade' their car to be in a more competitive class, or spend crazy money to build a C-prepared car, or start open lapping events on road coarses, and in some cases, cause people to go wheel-to-wheel racing.
Do a google search of "pyramid of speed" I posted it on here once and nearly got my head bitten off by some straight line racers. To quote the page "it is supposed to be humorous and sarcastic. It's an ffing joke!"

RS Chris

GMan 3MT hows the CMC build coming along? Do you plan to run any events this year?

laiky

Thanks for the replies.

I actually have SFC's installed but forgot to list. I'm in need of new tires now, the fronts are so bad i won't even drive on them. Since the car sees so little use i am reluctant to spend the money on the Eagle gsd3's i really want, i'm thinking about the G-Force sports, what do you think about them?

Axoid

laiky,

If you really get bitten by the bug, GSD3's are not going to cut it, except as rain tires. One of the most overlooked things for setting up for autocross is the alignment. +6 caster, as much negative camber as you can get and 1/16 to 1/8 toe out.

The usual order of getting things are:
1. Another set of wheels with DOT completion tires. The grip will shock you.
2. Koni Sport Shocks. Once you get into this, being able to adjust the front shocks becomes a great help in tuning the car.
3. If you think your car has too much body roll, keep the stock springs for now and get Spohn's 34/25mm sway bars. They worked nicely with my stock springs.
4. Take an Evolution school. They can really help with autocross driving.

Also check out FRRAX.com, there are a number of top notch racers over there and loads of autocross and road race information there.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (2)

im not really an auto crosser but i like to drive around the twisties. Heres my opinion on what i would do..

1 Good Rubber on lightweight wheels
2 stiffer/adjustable shocks & springs
3 thicker sway bars
4 SFC's, wonder bar and other chassis stiffening bolt ons
5 Quick ratio gear box
6 Good set of brakes

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Fixed some bugs over the weekend, then took a quick cruise around the neighborhood... the neighbors love me I'll be going to an autocross this upcoming weekend in College Station (TAMSCC.ORG) for a shakedown to see what parts fall off. Hope to do an open lapping session at TWS in Feb for further shakedown. Still gotta order a new seat and get some more safety stuff installed/ordered (suit/gloves/shoes/new rollcage padding) before I do an actual race, but it's looking good.

Hopefully I'll make MSR-C, TWS, and the latter MSR-H.

sorry for the hijack

87LS

I would also say if you want to get really serious is Remove the back seat and put in a 6pt roll bar.
The structural rigidity of the car will amaze you how much it will help
Good luck and let us know how you do...

Souseless

You have some good responses so far but befor I throw my .02 in I waould like to know if your planning to run SCCA or some other sanctioning body?

laiky

I don't plan on running anything just want to have some fun and learn to drive my car better.

eric17422001

I ran an auto x in '05 with my wife's v6 '91 RS, the car has Eibach sportlines with KYB gas a just shocks in the rear and GR2 struts in front. Poly bushings and boxed LCA's with 245/50/16 Kumhos on '90-'92 flat spoke Z28 rims.

I entered in G stock, techincally with the springs and all I'm sure I was not supposed to be in that class, but since I was the only F body there nobody cared and it's not like I was a "threat" to the other competitors that are in it for points and run the series.

I just left the automatic in L2 and kept it to the mat, the course had no more than a 75 yard straigtaway anyhow. I'd race up to the turn, nail the brakes, then power though. Not enough power to break the back loose and oversteer but just enough to do a slight drift around the cones. I had fun, BUT....

It was a 95* day and I worked a corner for the first group. Did not bring a hat or cool drinks or sunblock. BAD mistake!

Only real prep was popping off the center caps and taking out the floormats, used a borrowed helmet.

CrazyHawaiian

I got really interested in autocross a few months ago, our local track closed last year and autocross was the only form of legal racing here locally. After looking into it I quickly found most of the mods I had already done put me in classes with people that were way out of my league. Like someone else mentioned it seemed I was going to need to mod backwards, back to stock stuff, to be able to compete. After much thought I decided being competitive in autocross was not going to happen for me right now. I had already gone too far and spent too much time/money to go back to stock. The suspension stuff wasn't so bad but I'm not gonna swap in a slower/heavier engine just for autocross. So I've decided that I'm just going to be doing it for fun for now. With the mods you've listed I think you'll be in the same boat as me. Don't worry about trying to meet a class. Go buy some badass grip tires and just go for it in the higher classes. Forget about being competitive, use the time to better your driving skills and have as much fun as possible.

VERTIGO Z28

iTrader: (1)

We do just what Crazy is talkin about. WE don't care about other peoples times . We just go to have fun and drive like stunt men in a legal venue. The 1LE we have was already built to the hilt from the factory. We just tell them it is stock. It mostly is anyway. We do have extra wheels and tires and we also trailer it to the events.
Remember just have fun and use what you already have minus the bald tires. Get some good tires, the best you can afford.

yjischoking

iTrader: (3)

yes and dont be surprised when you're beat by prepped miatas/crx/minis. for whoever said g-force sports are good...they're only for the street. with my old 310 tbi RS i would oversteer a lot. granted driver error played a part but i also had koni yellows, eibach springs and some 36/24 sways. grip is very important with such a heavy car as a 3rd gen in the quick transitions. tire pressure also makes a big difference i found out.