greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

I`m wondering at this point should I have a locked out distubutor or should I still have some curve to the ign timing? I was on the tech line line at barry grant to ask a few questions about the king demon and it`s idle circut and the tech said that mostly with a 14.1 big chevy for the track that the dizzy would be locked out and set to total timing and use some sort of retard to start up with. I`m finding that I need to run 24-26 degrees of base to get decent low rpms without loading of the plugs, but with even the smallest amount of advance offered by the billet MSD it peaks 40-42 degrees which is kinda high for max power. Previously with my 477 on pump gas I could run 16-18 base and get a 34 to 36 total which worked out fairly well...what are you guys using with that high of compression?

AlkyIROC

Depends how you look at it. Typically timing should be at full advance by 3000 rpm. For most race cars, they're launching and the timing is already at full advance. Coming back up the return road or through the pits, the timing would be in a curve area.

Lock it out to full advance. If the engine will start at full advance then there's no problems. If it won't then get some sort of start retard. Having it locked out eliminates one more variable. It's also easier to play with timing since there's only one number to play with, full advance. If you bump the base timing on a distributor with an advance, you're also bumping the total timing.

My timing is locked out around 36*. My ignition box has a built in start retard and I have a seperate ignition switch so I can crank the engine over before turning on the ignition.

If it's a track only car, lock out the timing. If it's street/strip, keep the curve.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I have my timing locked down at its worked out great for me even on the street. It cured some of the idle problems I was having and actually made the car more drivable on the street and more consistant at the track. I did install a digital 6 box though for the timing start retard.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

well, I think I`ll try it out, I`m heading to ubly or lapper dragway next weekend, should give me enough time to make the changes, Thanks to both of you for the info

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

mine's locked out as well and it helped with a rich idle issue. I have a switch for the relay to my distributor that I flip once the motor is cranking over so the starter won't kick back

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

Yea, I have a switch that kills fuel and spark and I`ve used that a few times with this new motor to start up with but generally it cranks over at 28* with no problem, I have a 4.4 Hp starter and relocated battery with 1 gauge welding cable to a remote selenoid Rich idle can be corrected with air bleed adjustments, I`ve only begun to fully understand how to tune with these but it sure makes a big difference... I was chugging it was so rich at idle and with just a .030 increase in idle air bleed size it cleaned right up