pyro719juggalo

yes me too!!!!!!

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

now why would i give parts lists to guys who didn't beleive in me?

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

so that we can back up your performance gains.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

It has nothing to do with "hating" the 305. It really is a lesser smallblock, no matter what has been accomplished here.

No offense intended, and Matt knows this, but the same effort on a 4" bore will produce more power than just the ratio of displacement difference. It has to do with valve shrouding (that's flow path, not the edge of the valves hitting the cylinder wall). The larger bore is just plain going to flow better. Matt came up with a 305 combo that is working very well, but you know he'd be in the 11's with the same applied to a 350. Of course, we all know that everybody has a 350. . .

And while I will add my voice to the congratulations to Matt, think about what NHRA stock-class early 3rd gens are running. That's with a 305, q-jet carb with stock intake manifold, stock heads wih stock valve sizes and no porting, stock cam duration and lift, stock weight, etc., etc., etc. Of course, they do all sorts of tricks, spend all sorts of money, and don't drive them on the street. But, impressive, none the less.

And, proof that not everybody runs a 350. . .

(In case it didn't come through, "Good show, Matt!")

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

you almost right on the stock guys. i did a lot of research on them before i built the 305. they are limited to stock lift on the cam, but anything goes with duration and lsa. they are not limited to stock weight, they are lighter than me in most cases, they have 5500 stall converters or running Jerhico trannys with 5.14 or 5.30 gears on a 30" tall slick. they have stock size valves but can put as many angles as they want on them.....the q-jet is extensively modified. i talked with Rich Aman for about an hour at a race a month ago in Cecil County, MD. he's got the H/Stock record at 10.98@121mph.

yes, the 4" bore would go faster, mine should have been in the 11.7 range...but i broke the block. simply put, the 305 really is a lesser smallblock, and i like to see them go fast. very much the underdog here. and if you beat me, you just beat a 305...oh well...but if i beat you, you got beat by a 305, muwhahahahaha(insert evil laugh, lol!)

my point is, i really built a no rules other than my rules motor. the 1.94 intake valve is the largest i would ever try to put into this motor, again becuase of shrouding. it's got aluminum heads, big lift/duration cam, but it's every bit still streetable, gets 22+mpg on the highway, has FULL interior (minus HVAC) with subwoofer and i intend to drive it everyday until i can afford a new daily driver. i also have every intention on it being an 11 second n/a 305 car (maybe not a daily driver, but it WILL have full interior still) that gets sprayed into the 10's. i just gotta do a few motor tricks.

oh, and thanks five7kid...the "good show, Matt!" did come through, no worries my friend.
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lol, fine, ok! look for a thread about 5 threads down from this one titled:"who wants to see me build another fast 305"

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

I certainly do not intend to state that a 305 is the best small block, I too admit that it is not. I agree with everything you said five7kid. My point was simply this. 90% of us on here have street cars that we either drive daily or frequently when weather permits. Every time someone gets on here and says they have a 305 and they want to increase it's performance, all the morons on here say "put a 350 in" like that will majically make it fast. The fact is, for the performance goals most of us have, a 305 can meet our needs just fine and for about the same money or less than it would take to build a 350. I am not all about flying the "305s forever flag", but I am about using the right engine for the task, and looking at the big picture when it comes to performance goals. For someone that wants 13s, a 305 will do it just fine, and for about the same money as you would have in a 350.

I personally have kept my 305 because I like to be different. It is not the fastest thing in the world but again I have about $1000 in the whole motor. I think it performs well and I am happy with approx. 300hp with 28mpg and a dead reliable combination. Not that a 350 can not do these things because it can, but a wisely built 305 can too, and that is the point I think many people fail to see.

Now please step aside while I get off my soapbox now.

mod313

With some chassis/suspension work you'd be surprised just how much faster that 305 will run. Gotta love those 305's.

johnnyboy

iTrader: (3)

we should all aspire to be more like mw66nova!
and we should all build up our little 305's until our hearts are content
lol
i wanna be able to run at least 14's with my 305

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i'm workin' on it!!!! lol! and don't worry, she's gettin' a little more gear too but not too much, just a 4.10. and no more converter than she's already got, that 10" ati unit is workin' great so far. she's gotta have street manners still(i originally said "good street manners" but i take that back, she just have to be able to live on the street)...and i'm not sure how far/long the 305 will last, i'm building a 383 to replace her one day...one day...

what exactly would you suggest to do to the chassis/suspension? you've suggested i do work to it before, but nothing in particluar...so...what should i do? here's what i've done so far:

lca relocation brackets
boxed factory lca's (still got rubber bushings...wouldn' hurt to replace those with some tubular ones and poly bushings)
poly tranny mount
poly torque arm mount
subframe connectors (welded in)
spohn non-adj. panhard rod w/ poly bushings
solid motor mounts
v6 springs
stock front struts (to my knowledge)
monroe replacement shocks out back
stock torque arm
no front sway bar
poly endlinks on rear sway bar
running on a 275/60/15 M/T ET Street Radial (~28x9) and i'm sticking with this tire...i'm convinced it works better than a full slick in a heavy(er) car like mine.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

What's your best? And class record?

I've seen G/SA and H/SA 3rd gens out here, the competitive ones pull the fronts, even at this altitude.

(BTW, your "Stockers are Way Cool" link in your sig isn't working.)
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More stall than the typical factory 305 will even rev to!

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

his best is an 11.53. the current record holder for I/SA is Rich Winchester in a 73 camaro with an 11.32@115.81mph. now, how does that work though, cuase i'm sure he's running a 350, right? how can they expect you to be competitive with your little 305, with 416 heads and 1.84/1.5 valves when he's got a 350 with ____ heads and 1.94/1.5 valves? also, didn't they get more lift in 73'? does he have to weigh more?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Each engine is assigned a HP rating. The class is determined by HP/weight.

blyth18md

scroll down on this board a bit...If you would have followed the latest build everything is out on the table... just gotta dig a little find it.

mod313

five7: my best with the last 305 was 11.53 on the 12.75 J/SA index with a minimum wt of 3345 lbs. Over this past winter I switched motor guys and am still working the kinks out of the new combo. I'm expecting it will run better than the last combo did; in just a pair of weekend events it shows a ton of promise just need a few test sessions to sort. The two motor are nothing like each and what the old one wanted this one hates, we'll see this fall when the better air comes back what it has. I'm thinking it'll be in the 40's in J though I may take all the wt out to try H or maybe even G if I can get enough wt out.


mw: the J/SA records was set at an altitude corrected track essentially making it out of reach unless you want to get the combo refactored. The 350 and the 305 tpi motors run in the injected classes, carbs only in the natural classes. When I say work on the chassis I mean springs. struts/shocks, weight placement, etc. It takes time but as an example I shaved a full second off my et with the old bracket motor just working on the chassis. I tried different springs, traction aids (I like the Pete Z bars best), shocks/struts, converters, etc while leaving the motor alone throughout. I'd recommend ATI for the converter, QA1 for rear shocks and Koni SPA1's for struts. I will tell you this, my conv flashes approx 5k and the motor pulls past 7k. If I were you I'd put a 4.56 in it with a 28" tall tire too. Just a couple ideas to try.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

the converter in the car IS built by ATI and flashes to 4K and i spin it to 6K, though i think it'd be OK to 6500...

i appreciate the indepth reply and will take everything you said into consideration when i really start to tune on the chassis (won't see the car till August 15th ) so we'll see. i'd like to run some 90/10's with trick springs and all. remember, currently the car is my daily and these things cannot happen till it is not. the 4.56 gears may be a bit too much with the 3.08 first gear of the BUILT 700r4 that i have.