I'm running in a 11.50 index class this season and I'm looking for a little help on how to get those exrta 2 tenths that need. Currently I'm at the time in my sig w/ a 1.57 60'. I'm looking for suggestions besides weight reduction, b/c I've done just about as much as I want to do. My plastic seat is not so comfortable. The front bumper support is gone,
manual steering,
skinnies,
no sway bar,
drag springs n' struts up front
glass hood,
and other misc. weight reduction stuff.

I'm not against pulling out the rear bumper, but I don't think the 30-40# will net me 0.2 sec. that I'm looking for. The rear suspension is a 9" w/ 4.11's on a spool, stock springs, air bag in the right rear, adj. LCA's (no relocation brackets), and a jegster's tq arm. Any and all suggestions are welcome.

 

get a set of relocation brackets. this will help make your 60's more consistant.

can you go with more motor? like a bigger cam or something? what is the combo you have, maybe we can make some changes here and there to help net you what you need.

to run an index class, you really need to make enough power to go well under the index, ie: 11.3's or so consistantly, then, slow the car down.

 

I agree, you need to be think of how you can get your car to run in the .2's or .3's so that you can run .5's regardless of weather/track conditions.

Is this an auto or a stick (it says gear jammer in your sig, I am assuming stick)? If this is a stick, I would be you could pick up 2 to 3 tenths as well as consistancy going to an auto with a big loose converter.

 

I agree with them. To run in that class you'll need to run at least 11.2s consistantly. I'd look into changing something in your motor setup. What's your whole specs?

 

was going to say transbrake, but saw the upper post saying gear jammer. 1.57 is not a bad 60ft for a 7.40 car. Might could play with the timing some to get more top end, or tighten your rockers down a few more thousanths for a little more top end power.

 

I'm running a 355ci motor
holley stealth ram intake, 58mm TB
Protopline heads
Comp cams 306. (230/244 .544/.576) on a 112. w/ 1.6rr

I'm not against a different cam. The motor is set up for n2o, 2 step colder plugs, loose rings, big split on the cam (14*). So I could change the plugs and I was thinking of a comp 08-443-8 cam.
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Se...umber=08-443-8

Right now I'd rather not change the springs I'm running (987-16) b/c I just did that. So a different cam would be in the .600 lift or less range. I'm open to all suggestions, Except for putting an auto in it.

 

so no advice on the cam?

 

Ok I just reread your specs-

Would you be against a solid roller setup? I like that camshaft you picked out. Have you done any cylinder head work to those protoplines? Do you have flow numbers?

 

that cam is definately a step up and will give you even more top end than what u have now. make sure your gearing/tires match that. i would think you got another 500-700rpm more power band with that cam.. but i think you'll be good with 4.11's

 

Sorry, no flow numbers and only port matching heads and intake.

I'm not against a solid roller, but I am a little concerned about the cost of the conversion. Springs, timing chain, cam, lifters, pushrods, etc. I had another post and someone suggested that it cost close to $1100-1200 to do one right. To me, that's a little pricey for a few tenths. If it's quite a bit less than that, then I'd be up for it. Thanks for the help so far.

 

I got a new billet SR cam, rebuilt lifters and matched springs for $340 or so from a guy on ebay. There are usually a few cams in your range on ebay and racing junk.

 

I am sure you could sell your cc306 and lifters, as that is a very popular camshaft.

Watch solid roller cams on ebay, I scored mine for $90 and it is a nice billet roller.

Definitely buy new when it comes to springs/lifters. I know that Lunati has a budget solid roller spring that runs right around $125 from www.summitracing.com. If you have a late model block you will need to pay a little more for lifters, I think I got my Crane Solid Rollers for late model for $325.99 As you mentioned, a nice timing set is a must, so another $100 for a billet timing set. And then pushrods... It could be spendy, you can save some money if you buy a used camshaft though.