xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

here's what i'm looking at building:

350 4 bolt main block
forged TRW pistons, ARP bolts throughout.
solid lifter cam 250ish/.550 lift
3600 stall'd TH350
4.11 geared 9"
28" slicks.
dart iron eagle platinum 200cc heads or similar price-wise.
750 DP holley/ performer RPM or vic JR intake
possible 150-200 HP shot as well.

what I'm trying to figure out is cam selection and head choice, streetability not that important as it's not driven often at all. Any ideas? thoughts on what it should run?

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (3)

Well what are your exact intentions with this motor? Street only, street/strip or strip only? What powerband did you want to make power in?

leeperryracing

are you bent on a 355 or would you consider getting a stroker crank and make it a 383? if sticking with the 355, get heads with at LEAST 200cc intake runners or higher if your pockets permit (preferrably aluminum). With the good flowing heads and the cam specs you listed you'll be able to "use" the victor jr. and also, nitrous LOVES a good breathing motor especially on the exhaust side just like any other method of forced induction.

P.S- with nitrous in mind, get a dual pattern cam with at least 10* more duration on the exh. side.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

very limited street, mainly strip. I think the original post said that. I'm assuming depending on combo, i'd want the RPM range optimized off the gearing, tires, and stall. I doubt the car would be spun past 6500 in the 1/4 with the combo laid out.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

If the crank only needs a polishing then I'll reuse it since I believe it to be a factory forged crank, otherwise I would consider a 383 cast crank, since they're pretty cheap nowadays. Eagle, SCAT, etc? Was planning on the 200cc dart heads, and picking a dual pattern cam, but leaving it pretty much up in the air to suggestions. Already have true duals and long tube headers as well.

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

You could probably even go with a 4000 or 4500 converter with 250* @ .050.

If you buy a set of Dart heads, keep in mind that they need a lot of port work to flow decent. My Dart R series 220cc heads needed a lot of work to flow in the 300cfm range @.050.

i would stick with the 355 and put a set of AFR 210's on the motor. I got a screaming deal on my Dart heads, and after buying offset rockers, special guideplates and paying for port work, I wish I would have just purchased an "out of the box" kick *** head like an AFR.

Are you thinking solid flat tappet or solid roller?

With a 350 and a 3600 converter, I would go with the XS282 from comp. It specs 244/252 @ .050 and .520/.540 lift (assuming you are going flat tappet).

With a 350 and a solid roller camshaft, I would go with the XR280R.

If you can't tell, I like the Comp XE line of camshafts. Just don't overcam it if you do go 350ci.

ross

I have done two of these combos together using the trw 2256 flat top pistons. and 200cc dart heads I used the comp 294s in one engine and a vic jr intake it ran 12.00 on motor and 10.70 on a 175hp tune of nitrous. The other motor I had basicly the same cam but I had it custom ground from comp and put it on a 106 lobe sep instead of there 110 lobe sep this motor also had the lighter trw flat tops.We also used a rpm air gap intake. It ran 11.7 on motor and 10.20 on a 200hp tune of nitrous I used a single patern cam because the heads after some work flowed like 250 in and 190 or 200 on the ex.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

ross how much head work was done to them? ever tried them out of the box and ran them that way? i'm wondering because the new iron eagle platinum's are supposed to flow 10% more than the older casting, would that flow similar to your worked heads?

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

A friend of mine flowed his Dart 230's out of the box, they flowed like 279 @ .600 on the intake and 17X on the exhaust @ .600. I thought it was pretty pathetic for such a ginormous runner. After porting they went 300/210, but that is also with an extra $400-$700 of machine work in them if you have a reputable machine shop port them .

ross

With the dart heads I find the newer castings are better than the old stuff ie:94-95 castings. I would think with some pocket porting and a good valve job with a 30 deg back cut you will be very close. I forgot the motor with the 106 lobe sep also ran a 1.6 rocker arms.And both motors were zero decked.

1QWIKZ

My combo is very similar to the one you are looking for....

I have ran a best so far only got it to the track 3 times, but anyway it went 12.1@111...

This a 355 w/older Dart iron eagle 200's w/ no work 4.30, 28" tire and a 4,000 + stall....I was goin thru the traps @ roughly 6100...

Hope this helps..

1QWIKZ

Oh yea, I am also running the comp XS 280...

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

thanks 1qwikz and ross looks like i'll be building basically the same combo. I was looking for low 12s high 11s on motor, then open myself up for nitrous in addition for lower times.

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

You can do mid-low 12's cheaper and more streetable. If you are purchasing aftermarket heads and running a solid camshaft, I wouldn't settle for less than 11.5's.

A 350HO crate engine, mildly ported vortec heads, 9.9:1 compression, XE274 hydraulic flat tappet camshaft, super victor for vortecs intake, Speed Demon 750 cfm carb, hughes 3000 stall and street tires bested me 12.28 @ 111.85

Something to think about.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

unknown host.....I agree with the vortec combo and I have used one in the past with my buddies. But they don't use nitrous all that well. Typically the ET drop from a 75 shot up to 200 shot doesn't take off much ET that makes them not as worthwhile as aftermarket heads with bigger runners. Plus the cost of vortec heads plus machining for bigger springs, screw in studs, and the guides cut down, and a vortec intake, is very close in cost to a set of Dart Iron Eagle heads and a victor Jr intake, which would still get me quicker times than vortec heads comparing to the combos above me. I'm really looking for high 10s on spray and high 11s on motor. I'm hoping the Dart heads combo would take me there the cheapest.

ross

xpndbl3 I think high tens will be well with in range. I also think vortec heads with the machine work and a little help on the ex side will do the combo you want also. I have seen stock vortecs flow 220-230 intake side and i think the ex flows like 170s but like you said the intake and machine work add alot to the cost.I helped a kid out that had a very limited budget with a discount auto long block sold the heads off of it put a set of vortecs and 1.6 ratio rockers and performer int the car ran 13.00s on motor with stock cam and 11.9 on a 150hp sniper kit.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

see now my buddies combo with a small cam did 13.0 with dart heads and 11.50s on a 150 shot. I think it's the runner size that holds the heads back on the nitrous. I'm pretty much set on the darts and solid cam combo and hopefully I'll get the times I want.

ross

You'll make those times, no problem. On a side note the dart heads are much more forgiving if you overheat the motor. Good luck

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

I dunno, I ran a 100 shot on mine back when it was running 12.6's and it went 11.66. We pinned my press in studs and bought springs without a damper, cost $40 and whatever the roll pins were. Have lasted 3 years of street driving like that :shrug:.

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

355
fuel inj. HSR
protopline 200cc
comp 306 230/244 w/ 1.6r
4.11's and 26" tire
T-56

on a nitrous tune went the time in my sig n/a.

caribbean 85

My combo
Heads W/P II 200cc - 61cc after a .0018 flat mill (calculated guess)

355ci with hypers .125" domes (H617?? I think) - stock crank & rods

4.10 gears - 26" x 8.5 x 15 - approx 4000 stall converter TCI 10"

times in sig - N/A 12.0.. - so far 11.1 with 210 hp NOS plate lifting off near end of pass

Cam is a Crower solid 00355 - 106 * grind - 244/250

Hope this helps

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

You are running 210 horsepower jetting on a stock rod, stock crank, hyp. piston engine? Which kit are you running? If it is an NOS Cheater, your saving grace might be that the cheater plate seems to go rich past the 180 setting.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

so i ended up picking up a pair of vortec heads this week for an extremely cheap price. i know the XE274 is a proven combo for those heads, but would running a comp 294S or the XS282, etc. net me more power? i'm thinking a smallish solid cam might net me some more power. Any ideas? really looking for every bit i can get out of it.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

wow, we can no longer edit threads......sooooo I'll add it here, this cam will also be used for a 150-200 shot of nitrous as well, sometimes down the track after I get the best N/A motor times out of it. So maybe a N/A cam and a more nitrous orientated cam would have to be chosen.

caribbean 85

I swapped out my existing Cheater plate for a Big Shot "upgrade plate kit" a nice kit with jets, braided lines and fittings for a clean swap

Jets included begin at 82/91 - which is 210hp for Big Shot plate -
I use dedicated Blue pump and lines for NOS system - running between 6 1/2 and 7 psi on the fuel press. gauge when system flowing and I have a fuel pressure safety switch and full throttle activation switch

The Solenoids are my Cheater system solenoids

Important - flowing the fuel system through plate with jets installed "off the engine" helps to avoid fuel pressure issues

A must for proper verification of actual flowing fuel pressure during activation - revealed alot to me about trusting (or not trusting) my fuel gauge's apparently high pressure reading when using a deadhead regulator system like the Holley Blue pump

After all this - its all when you hit the button

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

any cam help on my post above?

SnkSknrZ28

iTrader: (2)

how much are u looking to spend on this whole deal? I'm sellin my pump gas 383, it'll run high 10s on motor with the right combo and high 9s on nitrous.. totaly streetable, idels at 900rpm, no surging, no problems, very fun And u cant beat teh price i'm selling it for.. $6500 for a potential 9 second bullet, i paid $11k when i built it fresh, also comes with lightweight power steering pump, GM chrome alternator, etc.. ready to rumble.. all u need is a carb for it..

383ci, 4 bolt GM 010
Lunati Pro Mod Forged Crank, Pistons, and Rods
Solid Roller cam
AFR 210cc heads, CNC ported
Edelbrock Vic Jr.
MSD Billet Distr.
MSD Wires
Comp Billet Timing set
Fluidamper balancer
Crane Gold series race 1.6 rockers
Crower Stud Girdle
ARP everything! head studs, main studs, everything
Cast Aluminum 'Chevrolet' valve covers

I will take pics tomorrow... Look at my sig, u can be doing this NA :tup: Motor is just beggin for nitrous

MJ

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

how does your sale add help me with a cam choice for the motor sitting in my garage before i stab it in the car next week?

ross

Call comp cams ask for a 294s cam made with a 106 lobe sep. add 1.6 rockers and have some fun.

SnkSknrZ28

iTrader: (2)

never hurts to try right? my Comp XR292 is a very popular cam and make awesome power

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

Did we ever find out how much compression you will have?

With a set of vortec heads, I think it would be important to keep your lift down. Also, pick a camshaft for the motor, not for nitrous . You can always pill it up later .

I think your best bet is to stay at or under .500 lift with duration in the 24X/24X range.

Hm, this tight lash comp solid grind looks really sweet!:

12-501-5

242/246@.050, .510/.520 before last, 106*LSA

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

i was thinking the XS 282, it's 244/252 with .520/.540 lift looks like a tight lash at .016/.016 on a 110 lobe sep. which is one size larger than what you recommended, might be a little too large?

Your choice is similar to the XS274, which is one size smaller. Do you think the 106 sep. is a better idea than 110? I just always see people run the XE274 with 1.6 rockers, which i figured was the same thing as the XS282 essentially for lift, etc.

Let me know on the 110 vs 106 and the other cam I picked out. I definately don't want to go too high, the compression would probably be 9.5 to 10:1 since the block has been decked a little it looks like and the heads are factory. I'm not worried about running premium through it, but 100 octane would be a little pricey.

ross

unknown host pick sounds great I like the 106 lobe sep.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

alright sounds like the way to go then. the XS282 might be a little too large you guys are thinking?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I also noticed that cam is not sold as a cam and lifter kit so which solid lifters would I want to run? CCA-813-16? or CCA-833-16? one is $96 and the other is $86, plus the cam is $155 so that would be around $250 for the cam, whereas my pick was $233 for cam and lifter kit, but if the 106 lobe is better, then I'll run that one. Thanks for the help guys.

ross

I like the Howards soild lifters with the oiling hole at the bottom helps prevent cam failure. Or at least I think it does. And thay do cost a bit more.

RWB____s

Im using a Engle custom ground solid cam in my 355. Specs .548/.564 lift 261*/266* @ .050 on 106 LC. Made 517hp 460 lbs torque At Verbrancic Bros. Dyno in California on 91 pump gas. Its a mean S.O.B. to drive on the street. Idles at 1500 rpm with next to no vacuum for brakes.(Using a canister) Using AFR 195 comp ported heads, 10-1 comp Vic Jr manifold and a 750 Holley

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

xpndble, do you have a stud girdle? if not, i'd look at BTE, it's the cheapest one i've ever seen, and a nice bar/spring setup, not a u-bar. Will help you with a solid cam in the upper range. (hard to beat $59 too).

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

i'll be running a stud girdle since IHI recommended that one to me as well. I'll have to find the website again that listed those through google or yahoo. I'm ordering the cam this week so I should be able to toss in the short block shortly into the car, as soon as I get my AJE crossmember to line up finally.