and if anyone has a sumped fuel tank for an 87 with a-n fittings or without doesn't matter

carb pickup that is the same dimension as stock.

let me know how much thanks in advance

 

What are you asking?

If you're looking for parts, there is a parts wanted forum...

 

figured I would have better luck here. I need a drop sumped gas tank or a sump kit for tank. and also a pickup that was the main question I had is which pickip to use? car is an 87 iroc that was cc carb originally and I swapped to 406 still trying to finish some things up. any help?

 

ne 1??? looking for pics also if anyone has them of their setup.

 

More of a "Racing" than "Carb" topic.

 

ne1 on this board able to help out on this?

 

jegs sells a sump that can be welded onto a factory tank. i don't know why you're asking about a pickup for it though, that all is eliminated when you get the sump welded up and run fuel out of the back of the sump. I bought one for $60 i believe and payed another $60 to have it welded up by a radiator repair shop. Of course you have to pull the tank and empty it as well. Then i ran a canister style fuel filter with -8an lines to a holley blue then 1/2" line to my mallory fuel pressure regulator up front to my holley double pumper. hope this answers whatever you're looking for.

 

reason I was wondering on the pick up is for the fuel guage or will it work using the stock one?

 

You shouldent realy need a sump on your stock tank, It leans down so under heavy acceleration the gass is gona stay pined in the botom of the tank.

 

it would be easier to put a sump in and run my carter pumper than having to worry about using the stock lines and worrying about the stock lines rotting. car is inside most of the year. I also like braided stainless line alot better. also if I end up taking it to the track looks alot better to me and I definitely won't have to worry about fuel starvation and pressure flucuation. how many others are running theirs like this?

 

Your right, im getting ready to sump my gas tank, you dont even need a sump, the factory location of the tank leans so far back, all you have to do is get AN lines to the back of it, and as for the factory fuel gauge i dont see why it wouldnt still work.

 

where would the an fittings go though?

 

pull the tank and have it sumped. the pickup then would be a -10 an line off the 1/2 fuel fitting on the sump. The factory lines are 3/8" if that through the pickup sock.

 

is it a problem going through the old fuel pump or just take it out? also does that drop the pressure at all? or were you talking about getting the sump kit and having it welded on?

 

i left the old fuel pump in there but unhooked the wiring to it...just leave the wiring intact for the fuel level sender. Yes i'm talking about having a sump welded on the bottom, that is the easiest and cheapest way to have fuel flow always available.

 

that's what I was thinking also. that way it is pretty much a guarantee of not having to deal with fuel starvation. also wondering how good an idea it would be just to have an aluminum tank made? talk to a place yesterday that said they could do it for a reasonable cost.

 

why do you need a new tank made up? sounds like you're making more work for yourself.

 

possibly but I kinda like the aluminum idea just because of not having to worry about rust. car sits most of the year thanks to sh!tty OH weather most of the year. but like you said it isn't a necessity or anything.

 

well it cost around 100 to get my tank sumped, and around 800 for a good quality aluminum tank made with a filler neck in the factory location. put stabil in your tank and fill it when you park it and you'll be fine.

 

sounds good. you seem like you know what your talkin about . also wondering what brand of electric pump your using? I am debating on electric of manual kinda like both but leaning towards the manual pump. also what kinda engine specs you got on yours? Looks good

 

i'm running a holley blue pump, but it's not really made for continuous year round use. there is a carter electric that is made for daily driver duties. if you're just running a mechanical pump i wouldn't even bother sumping the tank, because they won't outflow the requirements of the factory lines at all, although the chances of vapor lock would be higher. Also note the electric pumps are VERY loud.

 

I have a couple of carter and cv products billet mechanical pumps that flow around 120 gph at 8 psi which I would definitely think is outflowing stock.

 

you can do whatever you want, i'm just telling you that an electric is the way to go but the pumps might not last in a day to day situation. we've run cars into the 11s on the factory fuel line and ran separate lines for nitrous.

 

well sounds good then do you by any chance know the model number on the carter pump? also how about the quick fuel electric pumps I like that one because like the holley you have it is rebuildable but day to day I have no idea. also are you using braided stainless from the tank up to the k member or using hard line?

 

no idea on the carter, it's in the summit catalog and needs no regulator since its output is 7 psi. I've never used quick fuel anything but they look like overpriced carb setups compared to a holley HP, etc. i am running -10 stainless and 1/2" hard line to the front.

 

do you have two lines going up or how are you using braided and hard line?

 

i'm using both, braided from the sump to the filter to the pump. then hardline to the fuel pressure regulator then braided back to the carb. nitrous is off it's own fuel cell under the hood with separate lines.

 

I would not worry with it.

If you are worred about rust get a plastic tank from a 4th Gen.

I have 1/2 in aeroquip steel braid running from tank to engine bay. Have not yet put engine in.

I drilled a hole in the top of the tank in the low flat portion in front of the opening for the fuel pump.

put in a a 90* 8 bulkhead fitting with the 90 on the outside.
On the inside of tank attached a 45* AN fitting with proviaion for slip on hose.

Attached hose and ran to the back of the tank which is sumped and places a corner pick up ala stock car produscts.

Tank is filled with foam.

The stock fuel level sender and vent can be used if you run the new hose correctly in the tank.

The tank will bolt back up in the stock location using the method I mentioned.

If you are interested I can give more details.

I doubt that you need to do any of this for you application.