87_TA

Well I had my car on a local dyno about 3 weeks ago and was very puzzled with the results:

Along with a strange curve, power was really down I thought -
Made 379 hp at 5000 then dropped to 350hp then back up to 386 at 6200.

Well it just does not add up to what the car traps and weighs,

Here is an interesting read from Precision industries web site about loose converters on the dyno, pretty mush explains what happened to me:

http://www.converter.com/whatsnew_dynamometer.htm


Thats from www.converter.com
under "The truth about loose converters on the dyno"

Figured I would share that to others who may have run on a dyno and been really puzzled, or want to and have a loose converter!

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Very good read and explains alot!!! But fact of the matter, what you may need for dynometer racing is totally different than what's needed when acutally on the tarmack!!

11SEC91Z

iTrader: (4)

I can relate 87_TA. I had my car on a dyno 2 years ago.I had very similar numbers to you,made like 382rwhp and 450lb rwtq. At the time i had a ACT 3500 non lock up in my car,well it swelled my tq numbers and made my HP look like crap.Definatley not on par with the numbers my car was running just like you.Havent been on one since and couldnt care less what it dynoed as long as it runs the good number.Which by the way i did sneak my way down to 11.0 1.50 60ft this year with help of a th350 and 4500 coan converter

87_TA

Good job and congrats!
That car of yours is clean!


Yeah I have never been one to be a DYNO Queen, and as the artical says as well as I always have - prove it at the track! thats what matters.

The reason I decided to do it was for comparison purposes, I was going to swap it into my Camaro which is about 100-200 lbs lighter, and has a th350.. Its also carburated..
So I wanted to do a before and after comparison, then throw my p600 on it with some 116 just to play.

But I actually think I am going to do a cam swap now, and put it back in the T/A. I have calling around trying to find a trans dyno to test my converter before putting it back in..
As I have been having lock problems for years now and had trans out ... ohh about 9 times. So I am about sick of driving it with the converter unlocked, and refuse to put it back in until I know its fixed.... grrrrr.
It waste soo much energy, I have a 12" lock disc on a 10" converter that add about 12 lbs to it and does not work.

But after thats all fixed, I think I am going back to the dyno to compare cam swaps - then try a lock/non lock comparison.....

Trevor86TA

Interesting..

I dynoed the same night as my buddy with a 6spd heads/cam LS1. His car is a bit lighter and traps 116-7 here. Mine does 113-4. According to the Mr. Gasket slide rule, his should make 429 and mine 421.

Setting---->"Dynojet"..........."Mustang"

Him..........433hp/403ft-lbs.....380hp/356ft-lbs
Me...........372hp/356ft-lbs.....361hp/331ft-lbs

I couldn't figure out why there was such a big difference and the answer I got was "auto vs. manual". That didn't make sense to me before as I figured we were both making rwhp at the track.

Its weird that the differences weren't even consistant among calibrations.

11SEC91Z

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the compliment.What kind of converter do you run now?I could only imagine that your car could benefit from a nice precision or yank converter,but you have a combo that proven to work for you,very well i might add . I decided to set the 700r to the side after the last breakage,lost my patience with it. The th350 and 4500 is not nearly as bad on the street as i thought it would be,probably because i only run 3.73s.You have some awesome times bro.Im jealous Ive been chasin 10.99 for 2 years now,im ever so close.Hopefully in 06 it will happen.Good luck to you!

87_TA

Thanks "10"SEC91Z,
I run a TCI super street fighter with a 12" lock disc - its weird they actually weld a ridge around converter for disc to stick past actual fluid converter . It rated 3800-4200 but mine actually stalls about 4400. But as mentioned earlier lock does not even work But just like you, its really not that bad on the street, especially with overdrive and I still run 3.73s as well with a 28" tall tire. -- Actually most of my time is in the 60ft, The car has bested a 1.42 on foot brake, it even likes a 28" tire over a 26" even with the taller gear.

As for the 700,
You know I run for 4 years on a stock rebuild! As a safety I decide with some extra money to build a 700 with all the good parts IE: Hardened sprag, alto steels and clutches, 13 vane pump,boost valves and servo.. ect. ect. Soon as I put it in, it shifts like **** then brakes after 600 miles.... So I put the stock back in for the last day at the track "That morning I might add to make it there by 1:00" and stole the servo and boost valve from the broken and it works better than ever!!
It did have a problem after I left the track that day, it did not want to shift out of first until like 4000 - then I put it on the dyno and its back to normal