What will get me good 60fts?
#1
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What will get me good 60fts?
Besides the obvious answer of practice, what mods will give me some awesome reliable 60fts? Torque arm, stiffer springs and struts, spring blockers, SFC's, what?
I want to hit the gas and go with minimal fuss and wheelspin. I can practice with stock components all day long, but the 2.73's give me a false sense of traction. I have 3.42's waiting in my garage for install.
Thanks!
I want to hit the gas and go with minimal fuss and wheelspin. I can practice with stock components all day long, but the 2.73's give me a false sense of traction. I have 3.42's waiting in my garage for install.
Thanks!
#2
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Gears, stall, tires.
Then work on keeping it from shaking - poly bushings, boxed LCA's.
I wouldn't consider SFCs optional on any non-class-limited-modifications 3rd gen.
Then work on keeping it from shaking - poly bushings, boxed LCA's.
I wouldn't consider SFCs optional on any non-class-limited-modifications 3rd gen.
#3
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What stall would you recomend? 2800 or 3200? I will have 3.42's, and hopefully some Hooker 2055's and a cutout. Bump up the Fuel Pressure and timing, a burnt chip and some fat 255/50zr16 tires.
I meant LCA's not SFC's. All these abbrevs. are tough to register when typing so fast.
I meant LCA's not SFC's. All these abbrevs. are tough to register when typing so fast.
#4
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Sticky tires. All the trick suspension parts won't do a thing if the tires spin off the line.
#5
yeah tires are the biggest part. the stock suspension is good, unless you lowered it at all
if lowered, then get some lower control arms and brackets. cheap easy mod.
also, good shocks help. i am running tokico adjustables and run stiff out back, and softest up front and it helps me cut some good times.
and good torque converter, like 2800 stall.
my two bests are 1.895 and 1.882. the 1.89 with 2.77 gears, 1.88 with 3.27's
i have those shocks, eibach prokit springs, panhard bar, lowercontrol arms with brackets, and 2800 stall. stock iroc rims with 245/50/zr16's street tires. tread ware rating of 180 so they are very soft. they hook well but on the street they can spin pretty easily. i have to walk it off before WOT
oh and this is on a L98 tpi, all stock except for headers/catback
if lowered, then get some lower control arms and brackets. cheap easy mod.
also, good shocks help. i am running tokico adjustables and run stiff out back, and softest up front and it helps me cut some good times.
and good torque converter, like 2800 stall.
my two bests are 1.895 and 1.882. the 1.89 with 2.77 gears, 1.88 with 3.27's
i have those shocks, eibach prokit springs, panhard bar, lowercontrol arms with brackets, and 2800 stall. stock iroc rims with 245/50/zr16's street tires. tread ware rating of 180 so they are very soft. they hook well but on the street they can spin pretty easily. i have to walk it off before WOT
oh and this is on a L98 tpi, all stock except for headers/catback
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Car: 2013 C63C
Engine: M156 (P31)
Transmission: 7 speed MCT
Axle/Gears: AMG Limited Slip
Sticky tires, M/T ET Street's or M/T drag radials would be my choice.
My old TTA went consistant 1.633 60fts with 26x11.5x16 ET Streets on stock GTA wheels, 100% stock suspension and just about stock drivetrain with a good tune.
HTH,
Steve
My old TTA went consistant 1.633 60fts with 26x11.5x16 ET Streets on stock GTA wheels, 100% stock suspension and just about stock drivetrain with a good tune.
HTH,
Steve
#7
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by BigWhiteGTP
What stall would you recomend? 2800 or 3200?
What stall would you recomend? 2800 or 3200?
2000-2500 would be more like it until you get more cam and upgrade the TPI.
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#8
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What is stock set at, 1500? I thought the L98 cam was pretty good, still not good enough?
#9
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
"Stock" stall varied. Some 1500, some 1800, some etc., etc., etc. Where does yours stall at now?
The L98 cam may have been the best the factory put in 3rd gens, but that doesn't mean it's pretty good. A Comp XE268 would walk all over the L98, although mods to the TPI would be required to get the most out of it.
The L98 cam may have been the best the factory put in 3rd gens, but that doesn't mean it's pretty good. A Comp XE268 would walk all over the L98, although mods to the TPI would be required to get the most out of it.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The best method is with a playback tach.
Most people warm it up, find a place where they can be at a full stop without bothering anyone (parking lot), put on the park brake, hold the foot brake, and run the RPMs up to see how far they will climb.
Most people warm it up, find a place where they can be at a full stop without bothering anyone (parking lot), put on the park brake, hold the foot brake, and run the RPMs up to see how far they will climb.
#12
brake down and apply throttle till the wheels spin. they will spin abit before full stall tho, but it will give you an idea.
i have 2800 on a stock TPI and it launches me really well. but i guess it does hurt on the top end
That would launch you nicely, but kill you on the top end with stock TPI.
#13
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Before you buy any suspension parts get sticky tires and go to the track... My car effortlessly hit 1.70's with the factory suspension on 27x10.5" Hoosier QTP's. It squats and goes with no tire spin.
#14
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So slicks, won't they break my rear end? I mean I don't go to the track every week so I'm not going to do to much damage to the car, but once a year. However, I don't want that 'once a year' time to the track, the day I shatter the rear end, ya know?
So is a 2500 stall in my best interests? I plan on headers and porting the TPI a bit, a nice CAI that I have but I removed.
So is a 2500 stall in my best interests? I plan on headers and porting the TPI a bit, a nice CAI that I have but I removed.
#15
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
I've seen guys hit asinine 60 ft's on stock 10-bolts and have them last. They'll eventually break but I wouldnt worry about it unless you have big plans...
Ya know, most people I know with 10-bolts that break are all either running drag radials or just regular street tires... I'd be willing to bet wheel hop is a bigger killer than hard hooking.
Ya know, most people I know with 10-bolts that break are all either running drag radials or just regular street tires... I'd be willing to bet wheel hop is a bigger killer than hard hooking.
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Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 380 sbc
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.11
Originally posted by 88IROC350TPI
I've seen guys hit asinine 60 ft's on stock 10-bolts and have them last. They'll eventually break but I wouldnt worry about it unless you have big plans...
Ya know, most people I know with 10-bolts that break are all either running drag radials or just regular street tires... I'd be willing to bet wheel hop is a bigger killer than hard hooking.
I've seen guys hit asinine 60 ft's on stock 10-bolts and have them last. They'll eventually break but I wouldnt worry about it unless you have big plans...
Ya know, most people I know with 10-bolts that break are all either running drag radials or just regular street tires... I'd be willing to bet wheel hop is a bigger killer than hard hooking.
I have 500 or more passes on my 10 bolt with 4.10 gears and its still going strong. I don't even have one of those over priced differential covers.
#18
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Car: 4 Mopars total
Engine: Pentastar power
Transmission: T/F and New Process
Axle/Gears: Three 8 3/4's & one 9 1/4
Hey man, I have a 2400 stall im selling out of my car. If I can get $150 for it, im happy. Im going a different route with the car than I was when I bought it. Since youre so close to me, PM me for my number if youre interested.
#19
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Originally posted by Orr89RocZ
brake down and apply throttle till the wheels spin. they will spin abit before full stall tho, but it will give you an idea.
brake down and apply throttle till the wheels spin. they will spin abit before full stall tho, but it will give you an idea.
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
I can only footbrake my car to 2200RPM but my converter will flash at 4000+RPM...
I found that if I go 35mph'ish in 3rd gear then stab the throttle the tach will immediately jump a little over 4000RPM and actually sit there for a split second then the car will take off. I still have the stock tach in my car so I'm guessing its off by atleast a few hundred RPM.
I found that if I go 35mph'ish in 3rd gear then stab the throttle the tach will immediately jump a little over 4000RPM and actually sit there for a split second then the car will take off. I still have the stock tach in my car so I'm guessing its off by atleast a few hundred RPM.
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Car: 87 T/A
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
My hole shot solution...
My 3700 lb. TA is running average 60' times in the 1.58 - 1.61 range. Obviously the 383 is helping make these times happen, but I started with the suspension first. I suggest the following combination: BFG Drag radials in 255/50 R16 -- 18lbs with smokey burnout through the wet box; Southside subframe connectors; No front sway bar; Hotckis rear control arms and panhard bar; Eibach Drag Launch spring kit with rear passenger air bag -- Preload the rear with 28 lbs to the bag. Koni adjustable shocks set to soft.
Mine is the '87 --> third one down -
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...0106hpp_event/
J383....
Mine is the '87 --> third one down -
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...0106hpp_event/
J383....
Last edited by JOHNNY383; 08-24-2005 at 06:44 AM.
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