Well, i've finally got the new combination making the power it should and running a decent et, but my 60's aren't where they should be for what I'm running. (at least I dont think so)

here's the set up
355 with flat-tops and stock 441 heads. 442/465 214*/224* @.050 camshaft 2400 gm 12" converter in a th350, 4.10 gears and 28 x 11.5 et streets @ 13 psi, 90/10 drag struts, v6 springs, jegs adjustable torque arm set at -2*

Last weekend I set a new personal best with the mufflers on at 8.35 @ 83.75mph but the 60' was only an 1.88.

Shouldn't the 60' be a lot better than that? I have a vid i'll try and post later of the car launching.

edit: the car weighs in the 3100 lb range with me in it.

edit #2: Video *note the reaction time I think the 60' on this run was a 1.91

I've played with air pressures quite a bit... looks like 13 psi is the best so far

 

That 12" convertor is killing you. Step down to a 9" or at the very LEAST a 10". Did'nt 1 ton tow trucks come with 12" convertors?

Edit:

Off the hip theroetically speaking based off what it "should be running in the 1/4 based off my old times you should be in the mid 1.7? range for your 60's You just have alot of extra rotating mass/ie weight that's holding you back on the hit.

 

Yeah, i think a 10" converter with a 3000 stall will probably be in the near future.

I took a look at the video frame by frame and I could see that the car left hard, then unloaded the rear end, then squated back down. Could this be related to running v6 front springs in front, allowing the front end to re-compress too easily?

 

What are you running for struts front/shocks rear? I noticed the same thing too, squated nice then unloaded. Was that you chirpping the tires as well? Crappy track that day or what?

It may be your not hitting the tires hard enough also and keeping the weight transfer going/holding which would point back at the convertor again.

 

I did spin a little, but i think the noise was the **** burner in the other lane. I am barking 2nd gear though still.

I'm running lakewood 90/10s in front, and summit 3 way adjustables in back... i haven't played with them for awhile, but its hard to tell which click is what, since you have to turn the entire body to adjust em, and there isn't much for marks on em. Best I can tell, i have them on the softest setting. .Anyone have ideas on how to check that out???

Track may have had some issues to it. We ran all night before, and then that saturday. But this was the opening weekend

 

The jegster TQ arm is a little difficult, I put softer springs in rear along with 50/50's none of which helped anything because the arm is so short it lifts the car as opposed to letting it transfer. Which is a good thing because you plant tires - but in my case it was planting to hard and fully extending rear suspension. I think that arm is better suited for a car with a transbrake because the chassis sits neutral until you hit the go button.

What actually helped my car was lowering it.. Now I don't think you are having same problems by any means as the video shows.. Being that your car squated off line, with that arm you either spun a little right off the go, or your car just lacks the TQ to make the arm effective.
Which would lead back to what IHI said about a nice 10" converter. Next time try getting on converter as hard as you can before car moves if it will allow you.
If you drive the car alot I really love my streetfighter lock-up.
Even when not locked its very reasonable to drive- mine has stopped locking more than a year ago, not the converters fault but the tranny.

 

Here is a pic of my car launching - keep in mind its a lowered car.. Look at the seperation in rear while launching.

 

I'm not worried about streetability at all, the car very rarely sees the street.

I had the converter up pretty much as far as I could get it; around 1200 rpms... which is sad, I think when a 10" with a 3000 stall goes in, the car will really wake up. The 10" will most likely be in the mail as soon as I get outta school and get back to my full time job. (2 weeks)

Unlessof course i happen to collect a little winnings this weekend... first points race is saturday!

 

I think it needs a looser converter, something around what i have in mine (3200 stall 9" with lockup)

 

What they said ^. I had a 3600-3800 stall behind a 700r4 and it worked great.

 

I was thinking the same thought about stall speed, but kept them to myself in light of the mild cam your running. We both know eventually you'll up the anty in the bumstick department, so going with a minimum 3500 stall would be in your best intrest for a stall rating. That will relly put a hit into the chasis/tires and be the ticket for getting your 60's down there where they should be.

You've got your staging technique already for cutting good lights, and I'm sure you've already played around with leaving at a dead idle and incrementing up until your brakes can no longer hold. So cars get better 60's when they leave at an idle and make a run at the convertor and some dont. Regardless it's all about what it take for you to cut a light first and foremost so your at least able to play the game.

 

Yep, exactly. Thats the only thing that bothers me about going to a different converter. I love how the car is reacting to the tree (and me for that matter) this year, and the thought of screwing everything up with different converter kinda puts a fear in the back of my mind. But I'll probably change it anyways

Right now it seems like the car likes to leave at about 1100... which i guess it isn't much different from idleing at 900 or at what the tires will hold at 1300.

 

That's what T&T is for. The first 3 years I got into this game I can probably count on 1 hand how many times I WAS'NT at the track if they were running. Change is scarey in a bracket car, but if what your running now is'nt letting the car work properly, your taking a chance at that also.

Granted it was a green track so traction will be undoubtly better on race day, it's still nice to know your car will work on good and bad track days since the grease is coming if summer ever decides to get here

 

Update: pulled out the rear shocks tonight, and they are both completely shot! They won't extend at all even when compressed all the way.

So I've got a set of stock 95 v6 rear shocks sitting here I'll be tossing in there for now. We'll see how much difference that makes.

 

That would help explain some of the unloading problem Now let's hope the "new" old shocks are'nt too stiff

 

yeah, i hope they aren't either... they have almost 110,000 miles on them, so atleast they will be well broken in