ThUnDeR2005

Ok I'm currently working on a swap project here and just wondering what I should expect for times. I have a friend saying I could run high 14s (somethin like a 14.8) and I'm a lil more conservative, saying low 15s (nothing slower than 15.4)

Heres the setup

1980 LM1 350. Factory rated (emissions and all) 190 HP, 280 LB ft torque. According to Car and Driver, the 1980 Z28 (the car the engine came from) ran a 16.01 @ 86 mph with the th350 and 3.42 in back. The curb weight of that car was 3600 lbs (I think 3660 to be exact)

Its going into my 1984 Camaro, original V6. Its the sport coupe and I do believe I saw the weight of this car at 3070 lbs (with the v6). I honestly don't know how much more the 350 weighs, so I'm safely saying 250 lbs more and I'll be weighing in around 3300 lbs curb weight.

This car has 3.42s, I'm retaining the th350. It has a 600 CFM Holley carb and an Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake. It'll be running open exhaust with stock manifolds. It has the smog pump delete as well as AC delete.

Can anyone give me an idea as to what I may run? Its my plan to take the car up to a drag strip (Nebraska Motorplex) in Scribner Nebraska to see what it'll run. I'm just asking here to get an idea of what to expect.

7plagues

iTrader: (1)

slow for all that work....maybe low to mid 15s

84firebird383

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

You will do well to reach the 15 second mark. Allen

ThUnDeR2005

What do you think will help break me into the 14s? Anything other than touching the heads/cam (even though I know those are the biggest power producers)

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

I would start out with a good exhaust system. That would most likely get you into the high 14's. It will also benefit any other upgrades you will do.

I just reread my post and what I meant was the 15.00 second mark if there was any confusion. Allen

ThUnDeR2005

Well wouldn't a lack of exhaust trump good exhaust system? I'm talkin about just having the exhaust manifolds and thats it. I know such a thing would not pass in bigger cities and states, but here in Nebraska it seems like no one cares lol. Unless I receive a warning about it (doubt it but in case) then I'll be forced to buy an exhaust system. At the moment though, its either I get cheap restrictive cruddily done exhaust or I get none at all. At least when I get none, I get performance out of it.

7plagues

iTrader: (1)

only way to make that engine perform is get different heads and cam sorry.

ThUnDeR2005

I figured so. This cam was made for low RPM torque and not much for HP. Heads just flat out suck.

eric17422001

At LEAST run some pipes off the manifold outlets. Even drag racers running open headers use extensions off the collectors. Flex pipe is cheap! Trust me, when I dropped the 350 in my S10 I tried setting the timing and adjusting the idle mixture with open 3/4 length headers and it was belching flames out the collectors and making my carpet insulation smolder. Some flex pipe and a couple of turbo mufflers scavenged off the donor car hung via coat hangers made the thing driveable until I could get it to a muffler shop a day or two later.

If you look on the borad classifieds you'll rarely fail to find someone selling a used set of headers cheap, you'll need these eventually.

NOW, if you haven't dropped it in yet, spend $79.95 with Summit and toss something like the K1102 grind in there, better than that factory broomstick. Then spend $4.50 on the G5212 HEI advance kit, brings the advance curve in quicker.

Not promising you 14's, but what I have suggested can't hurt that's for sure.

ThUnDeR2005

I actually wanted an xe262 cam but the problem is the heads. I don't know if it would be worth it with stock heads/compression.

As for pipes, i guess I could do so. I'd need to find the flange thats 3 bolts connected to the manifolds.

eric17422001

I'm running an XE268h on stock 882 heads with the proper valve springs, the heads on that LM1 are probably 882's or 993's, close to the same thing.

I don't know what engine code mine was originally but it was a 2 bolt 3970014 casting longblock pulled running from a '74 Malibu (ok so I shut it off and let it cool first)

I had it bored .030" due to bore wear and put Speed Pro cast flat tops in it, pistons were .045" in the hole if I remember right, just had the 76cc heads done with a 3 angle valve job. With .039" head gaskets it works out to about 8.3:1 or something dismal like that.

Comp tech support recomended this cam in conjunction with my dual plane intake and headers- BUT I also grossly overestimated and told them I had 9.5:1. AND the engine is in a short bed S10 with a 3.73 gear, lighter than an F body.

It runs good, idles with good chop with my re worked quadrajet and has 12-13" of idle vaccum. If it was in a heavier vehicle the bottom end would be too soggy, but it's acceptable for me- pulls really hard from about 1900-5100, then it falls flat due to the heads not flowing anymore, the cam's rated from 1600-5800 and it's not able to deliver it's potential.

If I knew then what I know now, I'd have not spent any money doing a valve job on those heads and found some 58 or 64cc castings to re work, and probably gone with something in the 218-220 @ .050 range on the cam.

If you are planning a swap to some better heads on that bottom end like a set of re worked 416's, do the XE262. If you are not going to swap the heads, toss a Summit cam in there and save the dough. As far as the exhuast pipes with the flange, find an old F body Y pipe in the junkyard and you can cut the pipes off downstream of the manifold and adapt your flex or what ever to that.

ThUnDeR2005

Yeah but would that summit cam be worth the money and time? Is it really that much better than the LM1? A link would help if you could, I've got a few things going at once here so I can't readily search just yet.

eric17422001

Here ya go! Or go a step up to the K1103. I'd toss a timing chain and a set of valve springs at it while I was in there.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=17&y=11