2QUIK4U

iTrader: (1)

I always run street tires (255/50's kumho ecsta 712). I usually launch at 1100 rpm (before the tire's start spinning) and ease it outta the hole. Im consistantly in the 1.9sec 60' range with 4.10 gears and posi. If i up the stall, will i burn out more at the line or leave harder? I don't plan on using slicks. i want to run 13.40's on motor alone. Im running 13.60's consistantly now...
i have never driven a car with a stall, is it like slipping a clutch for the first few rpm's and lettting it out at the flash point??

turbotater

an overlooked option is a converter that came out of the
syclone/typhoons . i gave $50.00 for mine and it goes
low 1.80's 60 foot on radials . roughly 2300 rpm lockup

Chrome

Is that the same as the 4.3L S10/Vette Stall Converter???

Or did the Syclones/Typhoons' get something special?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

it's going to make it harder to launch w/ traction without some suspension mods or sticky tires. any reason your against running anything but street radials? rules for the class won't allow it or something?

turbotater

it is not an s/10 part .. it is a different part number from
that factory , don't remember the number off the top
of my head .

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

I think it will run faster either way with the looser converter. I think its easier to pedal a car with a looser converter on radials than a stock stall.

2QUIK4U

iTrader: (1)

I only have one set of wheels and i like the "sleeper" effect of having street radials on factory rims. I would be willing to try some drag radials, but im really happy with the 255/50 kumho 712's.
The price is right too... $93 each
My rear end has been blown a few times. It may have been the idiots installing the gears or the car hooking hard. I have sbf's drag shocks and struts, lakewood lift bars with the lower control arms and the front sway bar gone. With a stall and slicks is my 10 bolt gonna blow again????

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

Not if the rear end was set up properly.

Jason Dammen

Here is some food for thought. I had an 85 S-10 with the factory 7.5" rear end and 3.73 gears (actually the posi unit came out of an 87 T/A). I ran a 28" x 10.5" slick, 3500 stall 10" super steet fighter convertor, 406 small block (dyno'd at 574hp).... I only broke the rear end one time. Before I decided to build my new car the s-10 ran a 7.24 @ 98mph in the 1/8th. The main reason I think the it held up as well as it did was due factory suspension. The suspension absorbed most of the shock of the launch and the truck rairly spun.
Hope this helps with your worrys
-Jason

2QUIK4U

iTrader: (1)

Wow, i guess my rear is stronger than i thought. Im sure the reason i broke it so many times was poor installation. I have beefed it up a bit with stronger axles and a TA cover. I think i will go with the mild stall now.. thanks for the input.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

A little higher stall speed will help your cause for quicker ET, but if your dead set on not installing slicks or some sort your pizzing up a tree. The slicks alone would probably net what your after, once you install the 4.10's, your done as far as street rdial tires are concerned. The stock 12" convertor you have now is already saoking up alot of the hit, once you go to a higher stall speed which will more than likely be at least a 10" or 9.5" convertor, you will be the John Force of the runs you try

For the record, when I was only running 13.5 I blew 1 rear end, when I was running 13.00's I blew out another 3. All were with slicks and all shaved the teeth off the ring gear, never in 4 diffs did the pinion gear ever look worse for wear, it was always my ring gear.

When you get really serious about getting the best pass you can, buy or borrow a set of stickies from somebody and be done with it, until then your wasting your time having to pedal it outta the box.