greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

After having lotsa traction problems at the track last time out I have been working on the suspension to get it to transfer wieght better. Theres some background on the problem here-
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=254716
and

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=255349

I tackled the "lifting" issue first, changed the shocks out for a new set of the comp engineering adjustables..this time around I set`em to 30/70. I adjusted the pinion angle to -2 after changing out the 4.10 gears for a set of 3.73`s and another aurburn, the last one was starting to peg leg after 3-4 launches.
The shock adjustment alone was probably the whole problem aside from the right rear one leaking oil. set at 50/50 the shaft pulls out and pushes in with ease..at 30/70 it, even the used one, resists pulling out of the body and compresses rather easily, this adjustment alone made a nice difference in how much the rear would lift under a brake torque.(less)

As for the front, last weekend I put a set of the lakewood 90/10`s on and also lowered the front down to an inch under stock hieght with the adjustable coil overs. Today I took off the 30 pound 1 1/4 sway bar and links and took it out for a flog. I drove the car after every single item was changed so I could keep track of what helped the most...the 373`s with the 26" drag radials...it`s slightly easier to launch the car without alot of foot work, compared to the 410`s. The rear shocks did wonders for planting the rearend and keeping the lifting down to a minimum. After installing the 90/10`s the front lifts much easier and stays up somewhat if your on the gas..should be good at the track NOw after removing the sway bar in the the front it transfer`s wieght quickly and leaves nice dark patches on cold tires..after they started picking up road pebbles and junk I "staged" the car and let it go..it left 10-15 foot of rubber but was pulling like it never has, after pulling it back into the shop the sidewalls of the BFG`s have wrinkle marks on the side wall every two inches!

Now once the 28" et`s go on I have a feeling I`ll be cutting some solid 1.5`s. The only side effect of removing the sway bar I noticed is, the car when I leave hard, lifts only the driver side of the car..with the sway bar on it would lift evenly but not as high or as hard. The car seems to be okay to drive without the sway bar it only leans a bit more than it did before. It Seems like it is really twisting the car now as it never did before..could it be the sway bar gave it some sorta structure in the front?

AlkyIROC

Chassis tuning is almost a trial and error method. When the driver side front of the car lifts, the passenger side rear is also lifting but it isn't as noticable. A rear sway bar can really help that twisting. So can a rear air bag. The front sway bar is just dead weight.

My tires have wrinkle marks after the first hard launch. My sig picture is too small but I have some pics on my web side that have good wrinkles in the tires. I don't think they show up as good in the web pics as the real photos do.

slim84maro

you have sfc right? im about to take off my sway bars, the front and back but i think i might want some sfc first. right now my rear sway bar is only on one side because the bolt broke on one side so its pretty much dead weight right now. in the late spring im getting some street slicks. are the tubeless one's any different then the tube one's? i would be better off getting the tubeless ones seeing as i dont know how to set them.

slow86305

i run 28 by 9 et drags on my stock rims with no tubes with no problems. I have to put air in them every so often. I also ran ET streets with no tubes for a couple years never had a problem.

muggsyjack

Airbags will allow level launches. We are running a higher pressure on pass. side.