11.89 @117.5
#1
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11.89 @117.5
hey guys....
i havent been around this board for some time, but for those of you that remember me i finally got into the 11's.
after several years of making ridiculous power, and not going faster i finally ran an 11.89, with a highest trap speed of 118.2mph.
i was stuck around 12.05 for about 2 weeks....and changed a 3 dollar accelerator pump squirter and off i went.
since the last time i've been on here the major stuff thats changed is the suspension, i have adjustable koni shocks and struts, eibach draglaunch springs and its otherwise rebuilt
this pulled me down to the 1.64 short time from the 1.65 on the stock shocks and springs.....but it also go much more consistant on the launch
the motor is basically the same, except for the electric waterpump and AFR hydrarev kit which is worth its weight in gold, i gained almost 50RWHP with that, and about 500rpm
i havent been around this board for some time, but for those of you that remember me i finally got into the 11's.
after several years of making ridiculous power, and not going faster i finally ran an 11.89, with a highest trap speed of 118.2mph.
i was stuck around 12.05 for about 2 weeks....and changed a 3 dollar accelerator pump squirter and off i went.
since the last time i've been on here the major stuff thats changed is the suspension, i have adjustable koni shocks and struts, eibach draglaunch springs and its otherwise rebuilt
this pulled me down to the 1.64 short time from the 1.65 on the stock shocks and springs.....but it also go much more consistant on the launch
the motor is basically the same, except for the electric waterpump and AFR hydrarev kit which is worth its weight in gold, i gained almost 50RWHP with that, and about 500rpm
#3
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Originally posted by unknown_host
We have given you suggestions before, all I will say is that with that kind of MPH and that kind of 60 foot time, you should be running in the 11.4 range.
We have given you suggestions before, all I will say is that with that kind of MPH and that kind of 60 foot time, you should be running in the 11.4 range.
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by 383backinblack
ya none of them worked
ya none of them worked
#6
Whats wrong with the tranny? Hell there are mustang guys left and right running 10s, 9s and even 8s with the TKO...just have to know how to shift right, maybe you just need some more seat time.
My mom could hit the go pedal and shift a slushbox...I say keep the tranny
My mom could hit the go pedal and shift a slushbox...I say keep the tranny
#7
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Originally posted by unknown_host
I think the best suggestion is sell your tranny for a good amount of $$$ on ebay and use that money to put a nice turbo 350 and a nice converter in your car. Your car with a turbo 350 and a 3500-4000 stall would do WELL at the track.
I think the best suggestion is sell your tranny for a good amount of $$$ on ebay and use that money to put a nice turbo 350 and a nice converter in your car. Your car with a turbo 350 and a 3500-4000 stall would do WELL at the track.
if i was building a bracket car or an all out race car then i would DEFINITELY have an automatic
this car sees like 200 miles a week all summer barring bad weather......and its A) driveable and B) fuin to drive
neither of which it would be with a 5000 stall converter.
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#8
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Originally posted by AllGoNoShow
Whats wrong with the tranny? Hell there are mustang guys left and right running 10s, 9s and even 8s with the TKO...just have to know how to shift right, maybe you just need some more seat time.
My mom could hit the go pedal and shift a slushbox...I say keep the tranny
Whats wrong with the tranny? Hell there are mustang guys left and right running 10s, 9s and even 8s with the TKO...just have to know how to shift right, maybe you just need some more seat time.
My mom could hit the go pedal and shift a slushbox...I say keep the tranny
the problem is the 1st gear ratio
it goes 3.27, 1.98, 1.34, 1, 0.68
the 1-2 shift is a BIG RPM drop, and is the main problem at this point.....2,3,4 are all perfect for the 4.10's but im shifting 1-2 almost right at the 60'
theoretically with the gear ratio's in a t56 which are almost identical except it has like a 2.66 1st would be much, much better.
but EVERYONE has them, and i like the TKO alot, besides its stronger than off the shelf t56's.....its rated for 525 ft/lbs....the t56 is rated for about 450
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by 383backinblack
actually it would need about a 5000 stall, and no......its a street car first and foremost.
if i was building a bracket car or an all out race car then i would DEFINITELY have an automatic
this car sees like 200 miles a week all summer barring bad weather......and its A) driveable and B) fuin to drive
neither of which it would be with a 5000 stall converter.
actually it would need about a 5000 stall, and no......its a street car first and foremost.
if i was building a bracket car or an all out race car then i would DEFINITELY have an automatic
this car sees like 200 miles a week all summer barring bad weather......and its A) driveable and B) fuin to drive
neither of which it would be with a 5000 stall converter.
My friend with:
383
10.5:1 compression
Crower Solid (250/258 @ .050) flat tappet
Edelbrock Performer RPM heads
TH350, 3000 hughes pro street stall
Ran 11.6 @ 116 with A LOT less horsepower than you on a 3000 stall. I have friends that daily drive cars with 5000 stall converters, its all in your priorities. All I will say is that I really think manual transmission guys have no idea how much fun a "slush box" can be with a shift kit and a big converter. Its fun to mash the throttle and be right in your power band. I drive my car with a 3000 stall all over the place without problems.
#10
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Originally posted by unknown_host
You are captain streetable and yet you are running a solid roller cam? If you can put up with adjusting your valves once a month you could put up with a 3500-4000 stall.
My friend with:
383
10.5:1 compression
Crower Solid (250/258 @ .050) flat tappet
Edelbrock Performer RPM heads
TH350, 3000 hughes pro street stall
Ran 11.6 @ 116 with A LOT less horsepower than you on a 3000 stall. I have friends that daily drive cars with 5000 stall converters, its all in your priorities. All I will say is that I really think manual transmission guys have no idea how much fun a "slush box" can be with a shift kit and a big converter. Its fun to mash the throttle and be right in your power band. I drive my car with a 3000 stall all over the place without problems.
You are captain streetable and yet you are running a solid roller cam? If you can put up with adjusting your valves once a month you could put up with a 3500-4000 stall.
My friend with:
383
10.5:1 compression
Crower Solid (250/258 @ .050) flat tappet
Edelbrock Performer RPM heads
TH350, 3000 hughes pro street stall
Ran 11.6 @ 116 with A LOT less horsepower than you on a 3000 stall. I have friends that daily drive cars with 5000 stall converters, its all in your priorities. All I will say is that I really think manual transmission guys have no idea how much fun a "slush box" can be with a shift kit and a big converter. Its fun to mash the throttle and be right in your power band. I drive my car with a 3000 stall all over the place without problems.
car makes peak torque up around 4900 rpm........
so if i use your line of reasoning, then i should use an auto with a high stall, but not high enough to take full advantage of my power band.
which is EXACTLY THE SAME THING as running the transmission i have now, whereby your making a compromise to maintain streetability, and giving up a smidge on the track
only that would make it ALOT less docile in traffic, and alot louder cause it would be idling around 1000 with the auto.
its not like this is the only car ive driven dude, i've had plenty of automatics, manuals are WAY more fun to drive
Last edited by 383backinblack; 08-12-2004 at 05:32 PM.
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by 383backinblack
lol....its a hydraulic roller man....please
car makes peak torque up around 4900 rpm........
so if i use your line of reasoning, then i should use an auto with a high stall, but not high enough to take full advantage of my power band.
which is EXACTLY THE SAME THING as running the transmission i have now, whereby your making a compromise to maintain streetability, and giving up a smidge on the track
only that would make it ALOT less docile in traffic, and alot louder cause it would be idling around 1000 with the auto.
its not like this is the only car ive driven dude, i've had plenty of automatics, manuals are WAY more fun to drive
lol....its a hydraulic roller man....please
car makes peak torque up around 4900 rpm........
so if i use your line of reasoning, then i should use an auto with a high stall, but not high enough to take full advantage of my power band.
which is EXACTLY THE SAME THING as running the transmission i have now, whereby your making a compromise to maintain streetability, and giving up a smidge on the track
only that would make it ALOT less docile in traffic, and alot louder cause it would be idling around 1000 with the auto.
its not like this is the only car ive driven dude, i've had plenty of automatics, manuals are WAY more fun to drive
#12
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Originally posted by unknown_host
No a real transmission would more than make up for the TKO you are using now. Lets put it this way- I run a mild 350, 9.9:1, vortec heads, turbo 350, 3000 stall and it runs within 2 tenths of your setup on the motor making 125 rwhp less than your setup. My optimal converter would be a 4000 stall, my friend with the 383 could use a 5000 as well. Because its not optimal doesnt mean it wont still kick some ***.
No a real transmission would more than make up for the TKO you are using now. Lets put it this way- I run a mild 350, 9.9:1, vortec heads, turbo 350, 3000 stall and it runs within 2 tenths of your setup on the motor making 125 rwhp less than your setup. My optimal converter would be a 4000 stall, my friend with the 383 could use a 5000 as well. Because its not optimal doesnt mean it wont still kick some ***.
the car is setup the way it is because thats how I want it to be.
and there is clearly more left in it, so far i've trapped as high as 118mph.....and im sure i can tweak more power out of it
if i can find someone that makes a different gear set for that tranny with a better 1st, going from 3.27 to 2.66 alone will most likely net me about 2 tenths, because i'll finally be able to drop into the 1.5x 60 foot region
#14
There are new TKOs on the market...I wanna say they are called TKO 600s...as I remmember they have less 1st gear then the original. Might want to look into how similiar the gearsets are and if you can swap them in/out.
and unkown_host isn't it kind of misleading and pointless to compare your car to his, seeing as I remmber your car is pretty much stripped down and weights nothing? Also I think we can all agree that your car is some sort of freak cause there are plenty of people with that exact same combo that can only crack 13s.
and unkown_host isn't it kind of misleading and pointless to compare your car to his, seeing as I remmber your car is pretty much stripped down and weights nothing? Also I think we can all agree that your car is some sort of freak cause there are plenty of people with that exact same combo that can only crack 13s.
Last edited by AllGoNoShow; 08-12-2004 at 10:28 PM.
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I agree in that standards are much more fun. But in some cases slower not so much because of gear ratios or whatnot but because of lack of driving ability. If your out there lifting and shifting, and hunting for gears, then an auto, even with a smaller converter is going to be faster. Everyone thinks they are great drivers, but the truth can be harsh sometimes... I am all for manuals, so I say dont lose the Tremec, but the power is there for the car to go a LOT faster (I have seen 10s with that kind of power in street driven full weight cars), just have to get it there somehow!
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by AllGoNoShow
and unkown_host isn't it kind of misleading and pointless to compare your car to his, seeing as I remmber your car is pretty much stripped down and weights nothing? Also I think we can all agree that your car is some sort of freak cause there are plenty of people with that exact same combo that can only crack 13s.
and unkown_host isn't it kind of misleading and pointless to compare your car to his, seeing as I remmber your car is pretty much stripped down and weights nothing? Also I think we can all agree that your car is some sort of freak cause there are plenty of people with that exact same combo that can only crack 13s.
B.) My car also has a 10 point roll cage, stand alone nitrous fuel system (additional fuel cell, line, fuel pump, fuel regulator, ignition box, etc, etc), dual exhaust (added weight over single), automatic transmission, 15 pound nitrous bottle, cast iron heads and a lot of other heavy stuff to more than make up for the 50 pounds of carpet my car currently doesnt have.
C.) My race weight on truck scales is right around 3300 pounds. If so many people on these forums didnt exagerate their race weight to try to make their cars look like they are making more power, it wouldnt be a big deal.
D.) My car is no where near its potential, look at Pony Killer. Same displacement, same heads, a point more compression and a little more stall/gear/tire and he is running well into the 11's.
Bottom line is I have an entirely streetable car with a camshaft with 30* less duration and less lift, cylinder heads with intake runners 40cc smaller, less compression, less gear, significantly slower 60' times and our cars are almost neck and neck. His car should be a high 10 second car, not a high 11 second car.
#18
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Originally posted by unknown_host
A.) My car has no interior in it, no ac, no ps and no smog.
B.) My car also has a 10 point roll cage, stand alone nitrous fuel system (additional fuel cell, line, fuel pump, fuel regulator, ignition box, etc, etc), dual exhaust (added weight over single), automatic transmission, 15 pound nitrous bottle, cast iron heads and a lot of other heavy stuff to more than make up for the 50 pounds of carpet my car currently doesnt have.
C.) My race weight on truck scales is right around 3300 pounds. If so many people on these forums didnt exagerate their race weight to try to make their cars look like they are making more power, it wouldnt be a big deal.
D.) My car is no where near its potential, look at Pony Killer. Same displacement, same heads, a point more compression and a little more stall/gear/tire and he is running well into the 11's.
Bottom line is I have an entirely streetable car with a camshaft with 30* less duration and less lift, cylinder heads with intake runners 40cc smaller, less compression, less gear, significantly slower 60' times and our cars are almost neck and neck. His car should be a high 10 second car, not a high 11 second car.
A.) My car has no interior in it, no ac, no ps and no smog.
B.) My car also has a 10 point roll cage, stand alone nitrous fuel system (additional fuel cell, line, fuel pump, fuel regulator, ignition box, etc, etc), dual exhaust (added weight over single), automatic transmission, 15 pound nitrous bottle, cast iron heads and a lot of other heavy stuff to more than make up for the 50 pounds of carpet my car currently doesnt have.
C.) My race weight on truck scales is right around 3300 pounds. If so many people on these forums didnt exagerate their race weight to try to make their cars look like they are making more power, it wouldnt be a big deal.
D.) My car is no where near its potential, look at Pony Killer. Same displacement, same heads, a point more compression and a little more stall/gear/tire and he is running well into the 11's.
Bottom line is I have an entirely streetable car with a camshaft with 30* less duration and less lift, cylinder heads with intake runners 40cc smaller, less compression, less gear, significantly slower 60' times and our cars are almost neck and neck. His car should be a high 10 second car, not a high 11 second car.
i could get some different gears. ang a powerglide tomorrow and run 10.80's
and i could strip out all my interior stuff and save some weight and get down even further.
but thats not what this is about......the only weight that comes out of the car when i go to the track is the sub box
full interior (the back seats aren there, they wouldnt fit back in with the cage)
the point of this thread was, i was gone for awhile and i figured some people around here would be interested to know i finally made it into the 11's.......not to get instructed on "how to build your car the right way with an automatic"
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Originally posted by vwdave
I agree with you man. The times my car runs at the track is going to be close to what I can do on the street.
I agree with you man. The times my car runs at the track is going to be close to what I can do on the street.
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Originally posted by 25thmustang
Close mines exactly the same. Actually I put 3 15 lb weights out back when racing, so needless to say it is faster on the street if it hooks! Lots of people do this, and thats cool, just dont expect the best times for your combo!
Close mines exactly the same. Actually I put 3 15 lb weights out back when racing, so needless to say it is faster on the street if it hooks! Lots of people do this, and thats cool, just dont expect the best times for your combo!
#23
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Originally posted by ljnowell
Hey man, congratulations on the good runs. ITs a shame someone has to be an ******* when someone else comes in with good news.
Hey man, congratulations on the good runs. ITs a shame someone has to be an ******* when someone else comes in with good news.
#25
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Originally posted by BORLAZ06
dang...good times 383backinblack..:hail:
dang...good times 383backinblack..:hail:
#26
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by ljnowell
Hey man, congratulations on the good runs. ITs a shame someone has to be an ******* when someone else comes in with good news.
Hey man, congratulations on the good runs. ITs a shame someone has to be an ******* when someone else comes in with good news.
#29
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Originally posted by BADDEST305
nice job there 383backinblack
nice job there 383backinblack
#30
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Originally posted by 383backinblack
thanks dude....wow i have been gone for awhile, your a moderator now? lol
thanks dude....wow i have been gone for awhile, your a moderator now? lol
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Car: 1991 z-28
Engine: 434--654hp---601 torque
Transmission: ATI POWERGLIDE
Axle/Gears: mose 9" / 411 gears
Originally posted by 383backinblack
thanks dude.....i remember when you first got that motor......so how is that shafiroff hog treatin you anyways?
thanks dude.....i remember when you first got that motor......so how is that shafiroff hog treatin you anyways?
#32
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Originally posted by BADDEST305
i'm sooooo in love with it. very happy iv'e got down to a 10.34 but haven't been going lately cause of the heat and humidity i'm waiting for some crisp cool air cause i know it will run 10'20's or better, i'm trying to get a 9 sec n/a/ pass before i put the nitrous on then it should a whole lot of fun!!
i'm sooooo in love with it. very happy iv'e got down to a 10.34 but haven't been going lately cause of the heat and humidity i'm waiting for some crisp cool air cause i know it will run 10'20's or better, i'm trying to get a 9 sec n/a/ pass before i put the nitrous on then it should a whole lot of fun!!
#34
383backingblack
Hey that sounds very impressive! I am new on this site and am going to build an 84 camaro for the strip. [not too radical] Your times sounds like something that I would like to shoot for. Would you mind letting me in on some of the specifics of you engine-trans-rear ratio etc. I am not interested in NOS.
thanks
james
thanks
james
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Car: Accepting applications...
WAY TO GO. all i can say is you are very patient. at this point i am fed up with tuning, i am going to just spray the damn thing and see some 11's...
by the way, has the car's appearance changed lately? yours always was one of the baddest looking thirdgens i've seen.
by the way, has the car's appearance changed lately? yours always was one of the baddest looking thirdgens i've seen.
#36
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Originally posted by PhilM
WAY TO GO. all i can say is you are very patient. at this point i am fed up with tuning, i am going to just spray the damn thing and see some 11's...
by the way, has the car's appearance changed lately? yours always was one of the baddest looking thirdgens i've seen.
WAY TO GO. all i can say is you are very patient. at this point i am fed up with tuning, i am going to just spray the damn thing and see some 11's...
by the way, has the car's appearance changed lately? yours always was one of the baddest looking thirdgens i've seen.
and i think im gonna try that first.......im looking into a new tremec tko 600 which has a 2.87 1st gear, as opposed to my TKO which is 3.27.....so that alone should make a difference.
car looks exactly the same appearance wise......the only changes i plan on making are either painting/powdercoating the rims so that the lines in the spokes are polised and the flat lip on the edge is polished, and the rest is black......or i would also like to put black GTA rims on it, to increase the overall blackness/unholy bringer of death look
this is what it looks like for those that havent seen it
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Car: Camaro
Engine: 305-150/254 combo
Transmission: TH350 or T200
Axle/Gears: Srange 12 bolt; 5.14 or 5.38
Have you considered either a G-Force or Jerico? Either one can handle anything you may put thru them in future plus there's a pretty good selection of ratios you can install.
I remember finally hitting 11's with this car a few years ago, always cool hitting new pb's.
I remember finally hitting 11's with this car a few years ago, always cool hitting new pb's.
#38
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Originally posted by mod313
Have you considered either a G-Force or Jerico? Either one can handle anything you may put thru them in future plus there's a pretty good selection of ratios you can install.
I remember finally hitting 11's with this car a few years ago, always cool hitting new pb's.
Have you considered either a G-Force or Jerico? Either one can handle anything you may put thru them in future plus there's a pretty good selection of ratios you can install.
I remember finally hitting 11's with this car a few years ago, always cool hitting new pb's.
my TKO has been beat to hell for 3 years and hasnt made a peep, and the new ones are stronger....so it should be good
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Car: 1999 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: A4
GREAT TIMES! SO do u beat the crap out of your clutch on the hole shot? It takes some skill to launch a manual.........mad props.
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