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Koni drag strut question

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Old 12-21-2003, 12:09 PM
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Koni drag strut question

I have Lakewood's 70/30 front struts on my car with a PA Racing 4130 tube cross member, 4130 A arms, an Art Morrison coil over kit, with the lightest springs I can find (its 150 lbs Eibach) and it has manual steering. It has zero weight transfer. My best 60' time is 1.59. That's with about 30' of tire spin. Do you think Koni's front struts will help very much? I drive the car on the street and it still handles way too good for no front sway bar and only a rear sway bar on the car.
Can you give me info on the Koni struts? Like where is the adjustment, (top of shock shaft, botton of the shock body, or do you have to compress the shock & turn the shaft?) and how many positions does the adjustment have? What differences do the adjustments make? (compression, rebound,or both)


Jerry
Old 12-21-2003, 01:54 PM
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
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Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Koni drag strut question

Originally posted by JERRYWHO
My best 60' time is 1.59. That's with about 30' of tire spin. Do you think Koni's front struts will help very much?
That kind of 60' times and lots of tire spin? Try using some new slicks first. You won't get any weight transfer if the tires are not grabbing and trying to push the car forward hard enough. My 60' times are only in the 1.54 range but I've got a s$$t load of torque from the engine to get me moving and only lifting the front tires a couple of inches off the ground. I don't have a huge starting line ratio. 4.56 gears and a 1.76 first gear powerglide. That's only 8.02:1. A TH350 and 3.73 has a higher torque multiplication with 9.25:1. If you're overpowering the tires off the line then you need to get better traction or less torque.
Old 12-21-2003, 05:27 PM
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Re: Re: Koni drag strut question

Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
That kind of 60' times and lots of tire spin? Try using some new slicks first.
The slicks I run are 4 runs old Hoosier 28X10.00-16 CO7 compound. The runs are 1.60, 1.60, 1.60 and 1.59

I've got a s$$t load of torque from the engine to get me moving and only lifting the front tires a couple of inches off the ground. I don't have a huge starting line ratio. 4.56 gears and a 1.76 first gear powerglide. That's only 8.02:1.
My starting line ratio is high at 11.41 (700r4 and 3.73 gears) and the converter is hard hitting with a 2.60 STR. This combo is great for a street car you can drive it just like a stock car and I get 4,000 plus stall at the track.

If you're overpowering the tires off the line then you need to get better traction or less torque.
I need to get better traction or the new motor on the way will be a big waste of time it has about 300 more hp ( 6.7L Rodeck )

Stephen

Back to the first post on the shocks Can you give me info on the Koni struts? Like where is the adjustment, (top of shock shaft, botton of the shock body, or do you have to compress the shock & turn the shaft?) and how many positions does the adjustment have? What differences do the adjustments make? (compression, rebound,or both)

Jerry
Old 12-21-2003, 05:52 PM
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I never adjust my SPA1 struts. I have them set for the softest setting and have never touched them since I first installed them. I think there's 2 different settings. One setting needs the top of the strut to be disconnected and the shock compressed to change. The other setting is with a removable **** on the top of the strut. The Koni web site should have lots of info on the SPA1 shocks.

If you still plan on street driving the car then keep the 70/30's. You're not going to see a big improvement switching to SPA1 struts when compared to the cost. For a couple of years I used factory shocks and struts and had no problems.

Reduce the tire spin by adjusting tire pressure or from chassis setup. Third gens are very nose heavy so it takes more than just some simple bolt ons to get proper weight transfer.
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