383backinblack

how far should rim screws be into the tire bead???

if anyone knows it would be a great help, thanks

383

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Racer bud had the screws penetrate through the bead and leak. To prevent that, grind off a little of the tip.

Other than that, I'm not sure exactly what your question is.

Dano 00TA

I used to go about 1/4 inch. What kind of tires? Slicks? running tubes in 'em?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

His tires are Hoosier Quick Time Pro DOTs. Mounted tubeless.

"Standard" rim screws are 3/4" long. He had MT ET Streets prior to that, also mounted tubeless, said he never had a problem with penetrating through the bead with them.

Another guy I know puts RTV silicone between the bead and rim, no rim screws. Peels off when you want to unmount. I'm thinking I might try that instead of screws next.

Dano 00TA

Yeah, Unless the rims are already drilled I'd try to do w/o screws first, since they're tubeless tires.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The Hoosiers and MTs call themselves "tube type". BFG Drag Radials are tubeless, and specifically say not to use rim screws.

383backinblack

26x11.5 mickey thompson et streets

on a 15x10" rim....first time at the track the tire spun on the rim about 1-1/2"

they have tubes in them, i was just concerned about the screw poking the tube if it penetrated the bead

AlkyIROC

I never ran tubes. My last set of tires were Hoosier slicks. I used some shoe polish on the tire right at the valve stem. After a few passes I could see the tire was rotating on the rim so I bought the Moroso rim screws. They are Grade 8 screws and about 3/4" long. I used them all and put 8 on each side of the rim. I never had a leak from the screws. They only need to be tightened snug.

I now have Goodyear slicks (mounted yesterday) and I decided to put tubes in them to keep the sidewall stiffer and increase 60' time consistancy. This time I really need the rim screws. If a tubed tire spins on the rim it will tear the valve stem off the tube. Again I have no problems with the rim screws going through the tire bead.

When installing screws you must first unmount the tire. Drill the holes in the rim then grind or file off any burrs on the backside. Mount the tires and inflate them to at least 25 psi. Insert the screws into the tire. If the screws push the tire off the bead, put more air in the tire. The screws don't need to be real tight. I put mine in until they were snug on the rim.

If you don't run tubes or if you mark the tire at the valve stem and it doesn't turn on the rim from hard launches then you don't need to use rim screws.

383backinblack

ya my old slicks never turned stephen,

but the first track outing with these tires, the valve stem ended up at about a 30 degree angle....so i definitely need the rim screws

cp87GTA

My local Hoosier dealer told me 3/4 screws. I'm also running tubeless, I put a thick washer on mine because I was afraid they would puncture the inside bead. No leaks yet. Was running Goodyear eagles before, when we demounted them, there was no sign of the screws going through. Don't let the salesman talk you into c07 compound unless your track has very good traction. I have to really burn the tires to get 1.5 60 ftrs. They told me all I would need to do was just clean them off, right With the 4 year old Goodyears I was getting high 1.5s running 9 lbs. With the Hoosiers 9 lbs, I'll get 1.7 or worse, if I don't get um HOT. Going with the d05s next season!!

383backinblack

mickey thompson says the same thing but its BS....you have to heat the tires up really good or they wont hook

AlkyIROC

I found the Hoosiers are really soft. I burned a set off in less that 2 years. 2 sets of MT lasted the full 2 years each. I'm expecting these Goodyears to last 2 years. I'll probably go back to Hoosiers when the Goodyears are worn out.