Alright, winters gettin close and the cold time projects need planning. Big Block is the next investment. Our crew is very limited with these things and the two guys I run with have had pretty good luck do far, the 396 is holding up excellent for 3 years of dragging and only checking valves, the 454 has been strong, but we just pulled the covers off and he smashed the end of a non-ARP rocker stud and bent a push rod, med lift/duration cam but no stud girdle. So this leads to my questions concerning what to do:
I know there is no sustitute for cubes, but I hear alot of good things about the 396 being a durable mill since the side loads on the pistons is not as intense as the 454 per say and that they can be wound a little tighter with less worry, so given the fact I'd like to be low 11's or possible high 10's and still be able to drive the thing on the street when it's nice-no long distance crusises of course, what might be the better investment?
I already plan on a complete 4130 forged and balanced rotating assembly, probably a hardcore racing unit, and I'd like to keep the compression no more than 12.5, and I do intend on running aluminum heads. Still not sure what may be the best bang for the buck and have looked at the Brodix combo that covers the whole intake, cam, intake deal but don't know what size runners or valves would make a matched combination for the hp required for my wanted ET's. Definately wanta roller cam, what needs to be done to the block to make it happen, same as a small block with the special lifter is all along with a button? Would like to keep the revs at no more than 7K, even though buddies 396 still pulls at 75K I don't want that much weight slingin around and would like to try and get at least 2+ seasons without a tear down-don't we all
Any experiences with combo's or advice in general is much appreciated. I have a chance to get a free 396 block that needs sleeved in 1 cylinder and cast 071? heads, stock rods and stock steel crank for $100. I need the aluminums for the weight loss and heat transfer for the 12.5 comp. I'd like to run, and because it looks cool, as my $5 aluminum sbc chevy heads I currently have are chipped and cease to fool anybody Personally do not want to sleeve if I don't have to, but at this time it's just an option as I still have a few months before the ole debit card begins to melt again. Guess when I go to have it broke in and dynoed I would need a minimum of around 575-600hp to propell my 3400lb slug into the et range I want. Thanks

 

Youre going to need a flexplate or flywheel if youre going from a 454 to 396.Youre alos going to need a balancer.Why would you want to lose the extra cid? The BBC bottom end cruises at 6500-7000 RPM with ARP bolts,or even 7/16 bolts.Millions of articles rave about the10:1 compression, Comp XE274,Air gap(or RPM) and Edelbrock heads which gives 500-550HP with bout the same in torque.bigger cam and/or bigger heads,intake and carb are simple ways to get you there without spinning it high enough to worry about side loads IMO.The cam is very mild too

Daz

 

What ever it is I'm building, I need to have the power come in around 4000. This drivetrain swap is gonna cost me a little coin and I don't want to tub this beast yet, if I don't have too, so by keeping the power from coming on so quick, I'll have a chance of hooking off the line. I don't know, just had a freind of mine have MORE BBC troubles yesterday in eliminations, I'm not really getting to much reassurance these things are the way to go from a racing and duribility stand point.

 

396's can be wound a little tighter, it would seem. I shift at 5600-5700, at least 3 other 454 guys I hang around shift at 5000-5200. We're talking cars that go down the track at 3800-4300 lbs.

Another fellow racer went through his 396 last winter, did all of the "right" stuff to it. In a 4200 lb car, he's a couple of tenths faster than me (but he was before he did all that work).

All of the 454 guys (but one - the heaviest one) are in the 13's up here. The 396 guy & I are in the 14's.

Converters & gears play a big part. But, the old rules still apply. Want to go faster cheaper? Get a bigger engine. Want it to last longer? Don't rev it as high. Put the two together and you still end up with the larger engine.

Oh, no block prep is required for roller lifters. Retrofit lifters & cam button all you need.

 

The biggest issue that's got me nervious with the BBC is all the cam's these guys are going thorugh out here. The "Moshe Pit", local group of gearheads, averages 2-3 cams per motor before it survives. They've said they've done alot of experimenting with different things trying to get it to survive, but always round off lobes. I know that's not sayin much, but they are the group, alot of guys ask advise since they've been there done that and once their stuff is running, they are next to impossible to beat. Now I'm kinda getting turned off by the BB thing and thinking a 421 or 434 sbc. Figure I could have aorund 5-6K in it and run pretty strong considering, and I already have all the stuff for a sb so that's another plus for saving cash. Just like anything else, it'll be the day I buy something is the day I make the descion. I will not argue that bigger cubes is an easy way to go fast cheap though.

 

tell them that its easier to change valvesprings than cams...lol

daz

 

I AGREE WITH DAZ, ON ALL SUGGESTION HE HAS .......IF LOBES ARE WORN CHANGE SPRINGS, BETTER YET SET UP SRING PRESSURE AND HEIGHT'S TO CAM INSTALLED .....ON THE ENGINE SUBJECT I WOULD KEEP THE 454 AND BORE IT .125 OVERSIZE TO 481 CUBES BUT YOU GONNA HAVE TO GROUT THE BLOCK TO AT LEAST TO THE BOTTOM OF THE FREEZE PLUG FOR DURABILITY AND CYLINDER SPLITTING