drag radials help or not
#3
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iTrader: (14)
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,169
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
If you are spinning off the line, they will reduce your 60' times and therefore your 1/4 mile times.
Whether you get into the 14's depends upon how much improvement the above produces.
What you should be able to run is open to debate...
Whether you get into the 14's depends upon how much improvement the above produces.
What you should be able to run is open to debate...
#5
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 940
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From: Diamondhead, MS
Car: 89 20th Ann. TA
Engine: Turbo 3.8 V6
Transmission: 200 4R
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Back in the day we used to run 14's completely stock on gatorbacks. You should easily be in the 14's unless the engine is old and tired or out of tune.
After some tuning, chip, thermo, K&N, and M&H's, mid 13's could be had.
After some tuning, chip, thermo, K&N, and M&H's, mid 13's could be had.
#6
Have an 84 z28 H.O. that my wife (and driver)once tuned properly spun the tires all the way down the track (did I mention it's a peg leg?). Bought a set of BF Goodrich Drag Radials, and do a dry hop before each run, long as she does the dry hop right and the track isn't a little wet (happened last week), it's hooked every time. 2.0 60'. Just make sure you don't get them wet (ie stay away from the water box) or they are worthless. One other thing if you drive to the track don't drive if it's wet out, from what I hear (never had to try it myself thank goodness) they are like ice driving on wet pavement.
#7
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iTrader: (14)
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,169
Likes: 36
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by peacefrogs72
Just make sure you don't get them wet (ie stay away from the water box) or they are worthless.
Just make sure you don't get them wet (ie stay away from the water box) or they are worthless.
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#8
Originally posted by peacefrogs72
and do a dry hop before each run, Just make sure you don't get them wet (ie stay away from the water box) or they are worthless.
and do a dry hop before each run, Just make sure you don't get them wet (ie stay away from the water box) or they are worthless.
#2- What good is a waterbox, if you're not going to use it? How else are you going to warm them up?
Not being a *****, but, the way you get a DR or full slick to stick is to heat the $h!t out of them. I always went to the waterbox, did the burnout and just let it run out of the box spinning onto the dry pavement so they would dry off. And I never did a dry hop. Worked fine for me. I was pulling 2.0x 60fts. with stock suspension and 2.77 gears doing this. The only time you want to avoid the waterbox is with street tires. B/c if you get them wet or heat them up they start to spin even worse than before.(Not alot of people where I race realize this )
#10
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: Diamondhead, MS
Car: 89 20th Ann. TA
Engine: Turbo 3.8 V6
Transmission: 200 4R
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally posted by Kiwi-85IROC
Whats the concensus here? Is it better to heat up street tires before a run or not?
I'd like to know coz thats all I have on mine and I usually do a burnout before racing.
Whats the concensus here? Is it better to heat up street tires before a run or not?
I'd like to know coz thats all I have on mine and I usually do a burnout before racing.
Also, keep the air pressure up. I always had the best times when it was at 32-33psi. I cut 1.87 in my 96 WS6 Formula 6spd and 1.88 in the TTA with the technique above.
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