Does anyone have any suggested methods for getting the initial/total timing and timing curve in the ballpark? this would save some money at dyno time. plus i cant seem to get this thing close. and theres never enough time or light to do it at the track when i go.

383 stroker,
.640/.640 lift 244/244 duration at .050, 110deg lobe seperation, 106 deg intake centerline.
210cc afr heads
750 race demon carb, victor jr intake,

motor makes power between 4000-7000 rpm

 

Well, there's the "backyard" way...

Bring your revs up to about 3500rpm, and advance your timing until the engine starts to "ping", then back it off until the ping goes away. That should be your maximum total timing available.

 

ya but that would only allow you to adjust the total timing with your initial timing setting wouldnt it? cause you sure cant be changing springs and weights with the engine running

 

Yes, but this is just a quick way to fix your timing at the track or dragstrip. You only have to worry about your total when at the strip cause your gonna be wide open all the way. I didn't know you were willing to take off the cap and swap springs, hel, i don't even know how to just swap springs and make sure they're right. I'm still only running 27 degrees total in my car.

 

ya thats my problem....this cam needs alot of timing...initial and total......comp told me around 20 degrees of initial lead. yikes.

but this engine should be making way more power than it is right now, WAY more. And it has to be the carb and the timing that are way off. cant really be anything else....cause the thing runs pretty good.

 

With your setup I think 38 degrees total timing and 15-18 initial would be a good starting point. The best way to dial your timing is to experiment by changing it in small increments and driving the car to see what feels best.

 

hey your setup sounds pretty similar to mine...what are your cam specs? if you dont mind me asking. i considered a custom grind, but i wasnt sure if the benefit would outweigh the cost.

as far as timing goes, that sounds like good place to work from. this engine is really pissing me off, cause by all professional accounts it should make huge power.

all the specs are at the ride page in my sig if you wanna check it out

 

My cam is a hydraulic roller 225/230 @ .05, .525 gross valve lift and 112 degrees lobe seperation. This cam is a lot less radical than your cam so it doesn't require as much timing (about 10 initial 36 total). I think I went a little too conservative on my cam choice but I'm happy with the performance of it especially considering how streetable it is, decent idle and 12inches of vacuum at idle.
It definately sounds like your combo should be making more power, maybe a tuning problem or mismatched parts. What's your compression ratio? Your motor could be over cammed in my opinion depending on your gears and compression. Also 383's are made more for torque than reving to 7000RPM's, a milder cam might give you more overall performance through the entire power band especially with the 3.73 gears. Good luck

 

I think the parts are matched up pretty well.....the cam is big, but the heads are fully cnc ported afr 210cc competition heads. the compression is 11.3:1. the car is getting a new rear (probably moser) with 4.10's before spring. it actually says right in the cam notes from comp cams that it is designed for used with 4.10s and numerically higher. so given that got any more ideas?

 

Oh ya, the trans is tremec TKO 5 speed with a centerforce dual friction2 clutch. the gear ratio's are:

1st: 3.27
2nd: 1.98
3rd: 1.34
4th: 1.00
5th: 0.64

so i think with the 4.10's im gonna be launchin in 2nd gear.....that should make a biiiiig difference. 1st is almost useless with the 3.73's at the track so with 4.10's it will probably be a joke.

 

What springs do you have in your distributor? Have you played with them yet?

 

jesus...it was last year....im pretty sure i put the medium ones in there though.

 

Your combo sounds strong, with that cam and heads it seems you might need some more carb. I think with race gas you could run as much as 40 degrees of total timing and let the initial timing fall where it might. I run 38 degrees total advance on 94 Sunoco on the street running 10.8:1 compression, that's the beauty of aluminum heads of course at the track I put in some 110 with it. My initial timing falls in at about 16 to 17. Try some test and tuning at the track and see where you run the strongest. I checked your web page and with your MPH at 112 you should be ET'ing about where I am, you just got to get it dialed in. I picked up a digital timing light from Summit that shows your RPM and timing in the same window at the same time it makes timing adjustment a breeze at the track. Takes all of 10 minutes. Good Luck