Larry Dunlap

I have been doing some occasional drag racing with my 91 Formula 5.7, WS6. Ive only raced 1/8 mile track so far but I notices that I have difficulty getting traction on the launch. Im thinking the singel best thing I could do at this point would be to buy a pair of racing slicks and put them on at the track> I would use my Goodyear GSC's on the street and put two slicks on the back at the track. What would the best ones be for this? How much can I expect to spend. What's the possibility of trashing my rear end? My mods are in the sig, its pretty much stock, no suspension mods or exaust mods yet. I ran a 2.09 60' the last time out on one run, the others were like 2.18 to 2.2 so my ET varies a lot based on whether I spin the tires or not. I ran a 9.03 in the 1/8 which im told translates to a low 14 pass in the 1/4.

Am I thinking right here or would I be wasting my money?

xxwarrior36xx

Personally I would wait til you do some more too it. You have a great car man but I just think your tire sin is going to happen. If you get slicks it WILL help your time no question but by how much I don't know. I think Cheater slicks are like 150 I am not sure I just threw away my JEGS and SUMMIT. Personally I wouldn't get them take the 150 and put it into the engine or exhaust

Larry Dunlap

Well I respect you opinion BUT, for $150 I could get about 1/2 of a header setup. I would like to do headers, two random tech cats, and a 3" catback setup. That would get me some more HP and sound good to boot, but where probably talking more like $1150 for that with welding etc. Maybe I should just wait. I was looking for bang for buck I guess.

vortecfcar

do yourself a favor and get the slicks.....that feeling of a dead hoook is well worth the 140/slick- not that Id know or anything cause my car hooks for ****.

just my 2 cents

AlkyIROC

If you're having problems now, making more HP will be even worse. Buy some slicks. Since you only want them for the track, pick up some MT ET Drags. 26x10x15 mounted on an 8" rim should fit with no problems. $160 each from Summit.

If you do any kind of bracket racing then the slicks will be a better investment. Speed means nothing in a bracket race. Even a slow vehicle can win but the key to winning is cutting a good light and having a vehicle that runs consistant. Spinning tires isn't consistant.

Your 91 diff is strong enough. A bit of insurance would be a solid diff cover with bearing support cap bolts. I ran a totally stock 9 bolt with 3.27 gears for 2 years on slicks and never had any problems. I was getting 1.7x 60 foot times.

Larry Dunlap

Thanks Stephen,thats what I was thinking. If I stomp on the gas off this line I spin like crazy, so I hold the brake with the engine about 2000 rpm, then let of the brake an give it enough gas to not spin, once moving then jam it. This works ok but is hard to get consistent. Im thinking that spinning tires is pure wasted power from my engine and if I could put it to the track, wow. I guess this is every car's problem in drag racing that has enough power to spin the wheels. Anyway more HP would help at the top end I guess. YOu say 8" rims, those are special racing rims I guess, you get those from Jegs or whateever too? What size are they 8" x ?. Thanks again

Synapsis

I'm sure he meant 15"x8" or 16"x8" wheels.

Larry Dunlap

REally! I thought drag slicks were used with much smaller than normal diamter rims because of thier height. Ive got a set of stock 16" camaro rims Im not using that I could use to mount two slicks on.

AlkyIROC

The trouble with a 16" rim is that there's very little tire choices for it. The majority of drag tires are for a 15" rim and yes I ment 15x8"

Synapsis

You're right there. I was hoping to get some 16" slicks for the rear so I can save money and use my stock fronts, but I can only find 255x60r16's.

85transamtpi

ET streets are made in 16" sizes. Thats what all the LS1 guys use, unless they want to grind their calipers down to clear a 15" wheel.

-Doug

Larry Dunlap

I see a lot of sizes for 15" rims on Summit buy only one size for 16" rims. Will 15" rims fit on my car? its got disc brakes all the way around.

91 formula ws6

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

I think hoosier or m & h make a 16" slick, not sure though.

Synapsis

Hoosier has a few with Jeg's, but they're huge sizes. 33" diameter huge. But Jeg's does have more of a selection for 16" slicks than Summit.

Will a 15" rim clear OEM 4 disc brakes on an Iroc?

AlkyIROC

Don't go with what's in their catalogs. They can't reprint all the catalogs of the parts they carry. Just because it's not listed doesn't mean Jegs or Summit can't get it or have it.

Go to www.mickeythompsontires.com or www.hoosiertire.com and look through the selection.

Find the size you want then contact Jegs or Summit and ask if it's available.

Chronos_Titan

Just use some 15 x 8 rims. You can buy those for about $90 a piece.

Basett_Racing

I totally agree with most of the guys above about going with slicks. You can get a pair of 26 X 10 MT slicks and it will a VERY, VERY long time you need to upgrade to a bigger slick. I was running worn out 26 X 10 M/T ET Drags on my 82 Z28, and running 11.70's all day with no spin. I bought 28" ET Drags because I needed new slicks, and because I plan on going much faster than 11's this year, not because they weren't hooking anymore. Basically what I'm saying is, if you buy slick now, then anything you do to your car will register at the track, instead of going to the track slipping, and sliding all over the place. Prime example: I saw a guy this Fri night with an '01 SS LS1 6 speed with a K&N cold-air tube, a Jet reprogrammer, SLP headers and a Borla exhaust get his A$$ handed to him by one of my friend's stock 99 WS6 with a automatic and drag radials. My buddies' car went 13.22 @ 104, and the guy in SS went 13.50something @ 108. The car was pulling hard on the big end, but his street tires were doing what street tires do at a drag strip, they were spinning!!!! - and pulling up the rubber off the starting line, costing "real" cars with slicks to lose 60ft time. Go ahead and get the slicks, look at them as an investment, if you don't a full race schedule (meaning every weekend) they will last a good while. And youy can mount them on any wheels, I had mine mounted on a set of 15 X 7 stock 89 RS wheels for the longest time when I still drove my car everyday.

Larry Dunlap

Great INfo. OK Im convinced and ready to buy. I went to the MT website listed in a previous message in this thread and I looked under ET Drag and see an entry that say 26.0/10.0-15, part number 3053. That would be the 26 x 10s you were talking about right? I guess I need to buy a couple of 15" rims. I have a set of 16" Camaro rims but I see that the only tires listed on the MT website for 16" rims are huge, like 33". Will a set of 15" rims fit over the disc brakes in the back of my formula ws6? I think I read that the will. Thanks for the help.

Larry Dunlap

Another dumb question. Will the 26 x 10 tires mount on a 15 x 8 wheel, or do y0u have to have a 15 x 10 rim?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Larry,

First off - listen to stephen, he knows what he's talking about. I run two sets of Mickey thompson drag e/t. 26-8.5-14, and 26-8.5-15.. The 14 inch Monte carlo rims barely clear the 9-bolt rear end's calipers. In fact, one side does touch just a little bit.

The 14's require spacer plates.. What you should do is get a set of cheap steel rims from the junkyard off a monte, regal, etc, (15 inch) and first see if they fit on your car. Bolt 'em up, spin the wheel, make sure it clears. Then order the slicks + some drag tubes..

The drag e/t's work great. Infact, they stick soo hard my clutch slips!

-- Joe

AlkyIROC

14's? You've got to be kidding!

Drag tires and DOT tires use different measurments. A 28 x 9 slick is 28" tall (depends on manufacturer) and the "tread" is 9" wide. The sidewall or cross section can be wider. A DOT tire such as 26 x 10 is 26" tall and the cross section is 10" wide. This means the tread may only be 9" wide. You have to look at the specs of each tire to see the true dimensions. The MT ET drag tires I had were 28 x 9 but were really 27.3" tall. I now have some 29 x 9 Hoosiers and are really 29.1" tall.

Unless you get into very wide tires, an 8" wide rim is good enough. The tire manufacturers give a recommended rim width for each tire but you can go +/- 2" if you want to.

Tubes are not really required. Since a slick isn't considered a tubeless tire, it can leak down over time. My ET drags leaked down in 2 weeks. A tube would keep it from leaking but also adds extra weight plus if you produce enough torque, you can actually spin the tire on the rim and tear out the valve stem. This is why rims have screws put into the sides of them. If you do run tubeless you need to have metal valve stems installed before going to the track.

I've never run tubes and never had any problems except for the slow leakdowns.

Those large 33" tires for 16" rims also need a rim about 14" wide. They're for cars like Comp Eliminator and Pro Stock.

Basett_Racing

[QUOTE]Tubes are not really required.

I agree with Stephen on this also. I had tubes in tires, and a guy at the track running MUCH faster than I am told me to run the car without the tubes, and it would 60' better. Well, I tried it and he was 100% correct. Granted, they do leak down slowly, but I have a compressor, and I'm interested in going as fast as possible, plus a set of drag tubes will set you back about another $100

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Yeah Stephen, 14's.

If you run a 26-10-16 and I run a 26-10-14 I may get more traction because my sidewall will crinkle more.

Unfortunately, the 14's need spacers on my car cuz of the disc rear end.

The 15" monte carlo rims rub just slightly also.

But the biggest problem I have right now is my clutch letting go
on launch.

Stephen, what did you run for rims on your car when you had a 9-bolt?? I'm kinda surprised you ran the Drag E/T tubeless. I've been told numerous times by people not to even think about it.

-- Joe

AlkyIROC

I've always run the same rims. Weld Draglites, 15 x 10 with 5.5" backspace. I've had them on the 9 bolt, 10 bolt and now a 9".

I've always run tubeless. I mark the tires with show polish to see if they spin and so far they haven't. I'm expecting the new tires to spin a bit with the 8" converter and transbrake this year. It also depends on how much air is in the tires. Anything below 10 psi risks spinning the tire on the rim. Since my car is still considered a heavy car (over 2800 pounds), I usually run 16 psi. I'll have to play with tire pressures again to see where the new tires like it the best.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Thats wild.

Well I'm not having traction problems yet this year, I guess I'll find out when I get a clutch that doesn't break loose at the gates.

I think i'm launching way too hard tho.. I see vettes up there with sticks running low, low 11s and I can't smell their clutch at the end of the track.

-- Joe

mod313

The 60' times will be better because your car doesn't have to turn the extra weight of the tubes. Definately go tubeless and coat the whole inside of the slick with dishwashing soap. This will help with the slow leaks thru the sidewalls. If you think you may be spinning the rim inside the tire, get some screws to secure the tire to the rim.
I found my ET Drags worked best at 12 psi on my 3230 lb car(that's legal wt for what I'm planning to run car in later). But enough with 50 lbs less the car still works best at that wt.

Larry Dunlap

I got a chance to get a set of MT ET 26 x 8.5 x 15 slicks for a pretty good price. Should I get them or hold out for the 26 x 10 x 15's. 8.5" doesnt seem that wide???

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

8.5 is fine for a 12 second car.

My 8.5's break my clutch loose dude.

How much are they ?? like 100.00 mounted on rims right?

-- Joe

Larry Dunlap

you,ve got to be kidding. $200 for both, no rims. They list for $159 EACH from Jegs, plus rims, which the cheapest are about $35 each

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Hey,

Kidding? No.. Thats what they usually go for used.. Are these new?? How deep are the holes in the center?

Regardless of what they cost new, the going price people usually ask for them used is $100.00 and it normally comes with rims..
At least around here anyway.

-- Joe

Larry Dunlap

Do you mean $100 for both tires with rims? That seems awfully cheap since the tires are 159 EACH new, and the cheapest rims you can buy are arou $30 eaach. These tires supposedly have only 4 runs on them so they are like new I guess. Thats $400 for two new tires and two cheaaaap rims

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

If they only have 4 runs on them, thats a good deal.. When I consider slicks "Used" I consider them to have a season of braket racing on them.. And those usually go for $100.00. Slicks are normally good for 2 seasons of racing, especially the E/T drags cuz you don't have to burn them as much as other brands.

A lot of people burn 'em different ways, I get 'em wet, then do a quick burnout til my front tires can't hold me, Then I immediately back off. They're done.

How far down the holes go in the tire?? Thats the really judge.

-- Joe

Larry Dunlap

OK, I got you now, $100 is for a tire that is 1/2 used up right? That's reasonable. These holes you are talking about, these are holes that are there so you can guage how much wear is left in the tire right? Where are they located? Im new at this

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Hey,

The holes are all over the wear surface, theres like a million of them.. They should show at least an 1/8 inch if not more depending on how much he burned 'em..

-- Joe

AlkyIROC

Tread depth is measured in 32's of an inch. I just bought some new Hoosiers and they only have 9/32" of tread. Tires are usually considered worn out at 2/32"

And yes, you should be able to get at least 2 seasons out of a set of slicks. Also a taller tire will last longer since it has less revolutions per mile than a shorter tire.